Beware: OEM vs Garbage

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jlglr4

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@greiswig: straightforward answer to your question is that “OE” means “original equipment” - so whatever is specced by the manufacturer, i.e., an LR branded part, where a branded part is available. “OEM” means ”original equipment manufacturer.” So, it is supposed to be manufactured by the same manufacturer as the manufacturer specified part, but without the LR branding. The implication is that if the same manufacturer makes both the branded and unbranded part in the same spec, the parts are actually identical.
 

Justin Mann

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I think I was the other person having problems that you mentioned seating the part. The Genuine Land Rover part seemed better for only 10$ more. My main problem seemed to be barely perceivable gunk on the inner wall. I could see where the old pipe left some really hard residue in spots. After I took a wire wheel to it on the lowest dremel setting it fit! nice and smooth wall. Now I hold pressure!
 

ryanjl

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I’ve had a great experience buying parts from https://www.landrovermerriamparts.com/ they ship same day or next day and always beat my dealer prices for the same exact part.

That's the local Land Rover dealer for both @Pfunk951 and myself. Problem is, they claim they can't sell for those cheap prices to anyone who lives local. Even further, they claim they can't even sell at full price through that website. So if I ever need anything from them, I've got to drive my *** to the dealership.

EDIT: Oh neat. Forum update censors words like a ess ess. Unreal.
 

mbw

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oh ****. i just checked and I got the same one from AB. Crap.. i always look for OEM parts and thought this was one.. ****. I just put it in. System pressurized fine and it just took a little careful effort to get the orings to seat. I guess I will just keep an eye on it. my original factory crossover pipe was in basically perfect condition with 80k miles on it... i hope I didn't just make my situation worse.
 

timc930

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I only by critical parts from dealer website or Rovers North. I’ve got one of the POS AB long blocks with 5k miles on it at a machine shop to fix their improper decking, then it will be blue printed and balanced. Long story but I don’t use AB anymore. To many crappy parts.
 

jlglr4

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my original factory crossover pipe was in basically perfect condition with 80k miles on it.
This is interesting. I think the crossovers last longer in the V8, probably because they run at a lower temp. In the SCV6, my pipes were significantly degraded at only 52K, and several others on this forum were significantly degraded under 80K.
 

Pfunk951

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This is mine at 102k.. Disintegrated on pullout..
20210629_223912.jpg20210630_182602.jpg
The second pic shows the new OE pipe properly seated- the Atlantic Briitish one never went this far down and I could see the O-rings when bolted down.. Yikes!

MP
 

timc930

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Every coolant crossover pipe that I’ve removed from a BMW M54 engine came apart where it enters the block requiring extensive cleaning with a sanding pad or copper brush. Even the ones that were not leaking that I replaced as PM came apart. That is not uncommon.
 

greiswig

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At 47k, my 2016 crossover pipe seemed in perfect condition. I even poked at it to test the base for weakness or degradation, but couldn’t detect any. I bought it used, so it’s possible that it was previously replaced, but I doubt it. For one thing, the new part was obviously different from the one I pulled. For another, all the looms, fasteners, etc. showed no sign of being disturbed before.
 

mbw

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Here is mine. Original part, 0 to 80k miles. Came out in one piece and looks perfect. Then i went and put the non-OE ab one in... grrr, im hoping it is ok. We got the orings to seat all the way, just took a little work.

I think one big reason mine was fine is I don't daily this thing. It is mostly used for long trips. So it doesn't get heat cycled a lot.

IMG_2831-X3.jpg
 

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