Crazy to consider new engine in a 2016 LR4?

[DavidSG]

Believe it or not. This stuff works. Not permanent of course. https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...V63BHAR1JzxICEAQYASABEgLFFPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

As Rover range suggested, you should try the crc head gasket fix. If you're only losing a coolant reservoir worth of coolant every 5k miles you have a very small leak, the ideal type to be fixed with this product. This particular product uses nano particles reinforced with fibers so if it does fix the leak, the results should be permanent barring another overheating episode. If you're assuming you'll need a new engine anyways, why not try it? I've had so much success using products like at-205 to recondition seals, Valvoline restore and protect to unstick piston rings, BG induction solvents to clean valves, that I am now of the opinion that many of these products work, but they must be used appropriately with an understanding of what exactly the products do. One thing best to avoid though are oil additives, i.e. anything that changes the chemistry of your motor oil. You don't want to mess with that.

Randomly, was talking to my Uber driver about my coolant / potential head gasket issues on the way back to the shop to pick up my LR4 - and he recommended exactly this product. I guess it doesn't hurt to give it a try. Although read some reviews and some people are complaining it clogs up the system and leads to more issues - any insight on that? And how do you know if it's working - other than hopefully seeing longer durations before the coolant reservoir tank needs to be filled back up?

 

[DavidSG]

Sorry to hear that, David. So when they did the pressure test, they drop the exhaust header, run the test and then visibly see coolant dripping out of the exhaust port(s)?

It sounds like there would need to be a coolant channel right next to the exhaust outlet on the head for there to be a leak. I'd probably verify that since it could be done for free.

Thanks. The original plan was to do a pressure test first but they started with the exhaust / combustion leak test and that showed there was exhaust mixing with the coolant (fluid turned from blue to green). He was still going to do a pressure test after that (had already done that a couple of times before at different shops) but I needed it back earlier so I told him not to bother right now.

Could you elaborate on what you are suggesting (and what different conclusion / course of action it may lead to)?

 

[powershift]

Thanks. The original plan was to do a pressure test first but they started with the exhaust / combustion leak test and that showed there was exhaust mixing with the coolant (fluid turned from blue to green). He was still going to do a pressure test after that (had already done that a couple of times before at different shops) but I needed it back earlier so I told him not to bother right now.

Could you elaborate on what you are suggesting (and what different conclusion / course of action it may lead to)?

I've never had that happens so I was curious how they are concluding that coolant is getting into the exhaust is all, no suggestions sorry. My coolant is pinkish (as is dexcool), not sure how they started with blue unless they are dying the coolant and chemical reactions from exhaust change the color to green. Which happens to be the same color as anti-freeze.

 

[greiswig]

I've never had that happens so I was curious how they are concluding that coolant is getting into the exhaust is all, no suggestions sorry. My coolant is pinkish (as is dexcool), not sure how they started with blue unless they are dying the coolant and chemical reactions from exhaust change the color to green. Which happens to be the same color as anti-freeze.

It's a test that looks the other way around from how you're thinking about it: it looks for exhaust gas dissolved in the coolant, which should never occur. It's a chemical dye that reacts to certain hydrocarbons by changing color, IIRC. Common test.

 

[DavidSG]

It's a test that looks the other way around from how you're thinking about it: it looks for exhaust gas dissolved in the coolant, which should never occur. It's a chemical dye that reacts to certain hydrocarbons by changing color, IIRC. Common test.

Right - basically a tube-type contraption they mount on top of the coolant reservoir tank that is filled with some blue liquid and it changes colors if it detects exhaust gas.

 

[bdd123]

If i had an LR4 that I really liked, the only thing wrong was the engine needing replacement, I would definitely try to do SCV8 vs SCV6.

 

[Alain]

have you checked ur vacuum pump? i had a similar goose chase - look at the work i had don here: pos 133 has everything i had done addressing my low coolant issue.

maintenance history since new 2013

no pinch from the install. They replaced the whole part

www.landroverworld.org

Why check the brake vacuum pump? What does the brake vacuum pump have to do with a coolant issue?

 

[CONCH]

Unless a PO ran that vehicle really hard, it doesn't seem that it should be done in at 86K. Id bet if fully tested by competent Techs they will find it to be repairable as others have suggested. And even if you have to bite the bullet for a (now) cheaper OEM REMAN engine, that would be stable for many years and miles of regularly maintained standard street use. Lots and lots of them - many much older - out there that are going strong with 150 - 300K miles on them.

 

[DavidSG]

Unless a PO ran that vehicle really hard, it doesn't seem that it should be done in at 86K. Id bet if fully tested by competent Techs they will find it to be repairable as others have suggested. And even if you have to bite the bullet for a (now) cheaper OEM REMAN engine, that would be stable for many years and miles of regularly maintained standard street use. Lots and lots of them - many much older - out there that are going strong with 150 - 300K miles on them.

I hear you. I've owned it since 37K miles and haven't driven it hard and it has never overheated or broke down on my watch - still runs smoothly as far as I can tell. Spoke with one of the shops I had been taking it to over the years - they do think it's repairable and are willing to do it. But that would be a $10K+ job. I would be willing to go that route if they can reassure me they will do a meticulous job and make sure whatever machining work is done appropriately to ensure the cylinders and block are pristine and the repair will last. What gives me pause in going that route is having no way to verify if they are doing the repair the right way or cutting corners and then having a similar issue come up after a year or so when it's no longer under the repair warranty.

On that note, if anybody has any recommendations on shops in the DC region (or general mid-Atlantic region) that have done this kind of repair (assuming it is a blown head gasket), let me know.

As an aside, so far everybody I have talked to locally is claiming there is no discount to be found on the engines. If there is a specific place I can check (I've reached out to my local dealer but they haven't got back to me yet), would appreciate being pointed in the right direction.

 

[powershift]

When I was shopping for engines I was lead on by a company that said their 5.0L remans had more power because they were bored out. He was selling them off his site and ebay. Doing the math from the numbers he gave me, its "bored" to 307 CI vs 305 CI. More power across the entire RPM band he said.

That math check saved me a lot of money. Maybe if it were bored to 327 CI or bigger but 2CI is cleaning the sleeves is all that is.