DC to DC charger install

[drivesafe]

Hardest part honestly seems to be running a cable to from the engine bay to the trailer hitch area.

Hi frillier, D3s and D4s ( LR3s and LR4s ) are the easiest vehicles I have ever comeacrsoss for running cabling through the vehicle.

NOTE, with the D3, D4 and the RRS of the same period, you MUST run the cabling through the cab and not down the chassis.

If you run the cabling down the chassis and the vehicle goes in for a "body off" motor service, all the cabling will be ripped out.

 

[CRYA]

Hi frillier, D3s and D4s ( LR3s and LR4s ) are the easiest vehicles I have ever comeacrsoss for running cabling through the vehicle.

NOTE, with the D3, D4 and the RRS of the same period, you MUST run the cabling through the cab and not down the chassis.

If you run the cabling down the chassis and the vehicle goes in for a "body off" motor service, all the cabling will be ripped out.

You just run it under the door sill plates and snake your way back to the rear area? For charging the trailer, you'd need some powerpole connection exiting where the trailer connections are right? Anyway, if I needed any body off service, the charging cable probably least of my worries at that point!

 

[avslash]

Can someone explain the benefit of doing this versus charging the auxiliary battery through my Traxide isolator? Feel free to treat me like I'm 3 years old....


Does it resolve the partial charging of the aux battery due to the "smart" charging on the vehicle?

Could you keep a manual isolator in the system to link the batteries for winching use or in case of discharge of the starting battery?

 

[drivesafe]

You just run it under the door sill plates and snake your way back to the rear area? For charging the trailer, you'd need some powerpole connection exiting where the trailer connections are right? Anyway, if I needed any body off service, the charging cable probably least of my worries at that point!

Hi CRYA, the problem is not just the cabling that gets damaged.
If they have run cabling up into the rear cargo area side panels, to power sockets, these and the rear panels usually get damaged as well.
So it can work out to be a very expensive "shortcut"
The "power poles" are called Anderson Plugs and are an American invention. ( see Anderson Power Connectors )

 

[drivesafe]

Can someone explain the benefit of doing this versus charging the auxiliary battery through my Traxide isolator? Feel free to treat me like I'm 3 years old....


Does it resolve the partial charging of the aux battery due to the "smart" charging on the vehicle?

Could you keep a manual isolator in the system to link the batteries for winching use or in case of discharge of the starting battery?

Hi avslash, the problem with DC/DC devices is the advertising they use to sell them.

They tell you all the good points like “a DC/DC device can fully charge your auxiliary battery” and this is true.

What they conveniently neglect to tell you, is just how long you have to drive, to fully charge your auxiliary battery from a low stated.

For example, if you have a 100Ah battery discharged down to 20% SoC, and your are using a 20 amp DC’DC device to recharging it, you will need to drive for at least 7 hours to get the auxiliary battery over 95% SoC.

But charging straight off the alternator ( via your Traxide isolator ) you can do the same think in about an hours driving.

Another actual example. My 2007 RR Vogue had a 140 amp alternator and a 110Ah cranking battery, plus a 55Ah Optima Yellowtop auxiliary battery, and a Traxide isolator. After slowly discharging both the cranking battery and the auxiliary battery down to the cut-out setting of the Traxide isolator, I then went for a 30 minute drive ( actually 33 minute ) and then carried out the same slow discharge of both batteries down to the same limits.

I have achieved a 47Ah charge in just 33 minutes of driving and 20 minute were in suburban streets and only 10 minutes was on the freeway ( where maximum charging would have occurred.

To try to do the same with with a DC/DC device, you would need at least a 120Ah auxiliary battery and a 100 amp DC/DC device, and it would still take a longer drive to get the same amount of charge.

NOTE because your LR4 has either a 180 amp or 220 amp alternator ( depending on the model ), you would be able to replace even more used battery capacity in the same drive time.

The only time you need a DC/DC device, is if the auxiliary battery is a lithium and then you have other drawbacks.

 

[gabrielef]

I'm installing a hybrid Traxide/RedArc 1240D setup, to charge a 100Ah AOLithium battery and power accessories. I won't be using the smart isolator from Traxide yet, but I will later to be able to charge the start battery from the aux battery. Also installing a Lensun 110W flexible, hood mounted solar panel, which will be connected to the 1240D. I plan to add a second lithium battery to power a 2000W inverter at some point, but probably won't get it done in time before our week long Mojave trip in a couple weekends.

Had I not needed the LiFePo solution (I have a 2016 LR4), I wouldn't have bothered with the 1240D and just used the Traxide kit only. I have a Traxide kit in my '06 LR3 and it's fantastic.

Lastly I am adding a Switch Pro setup, being powered off the second battery.

Hope to have things done by this weekend! I'll report back!

 

[ftillier]

Does the traxide kit not work with LiFePO?

 

[gabrielef]

Does the traxide kit not work with LiFePO?

Not really, as the Traxide system relies on the alternator to charge the battery. LiFePo requires a different charging profile (I believe a constant 14.5A) unlike an AGM battery, and the alternator on the LR3/4 is a smart alternator and varies it's voltage output. In the end, I suppose it could be done, but charging a LiFePo from an alternator would be very inefficient.