djkaosone to the Courtesy Phone - Oil Catch Cans

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avslash

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@djkaosone

I recall you installing two catch cans when you did your timing chains.

Are you still happy with the results? Did you have to fabricate your own bracket? Any special fittings needed for the plumbing? Any other issues?

I'm strongly considering doing this before I put mine back together after seeing the amount of oil that dripped out of my intake manifold onto my garage floor.
 

djkaosone

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Are you still happy with the results? Did you have to fabricate your own bracket? Any special fittings needed for the plumbing? Any other issues?

I used a 1" aluminum L-bracket to make the supporting brace and M6 rivnuts to secure the oil catch cans. I also used AN10 fittings on the catch cans and 5/8" SS braided oil tube lines. Overall, I think it's very useful and I can empty it. I just drained 8oz of oil. You only need a single oil catch can on the RH side (looking from inside the cabin).
 

djkaosone

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20200624_102105.jpg 20200624_102056.jpg 20200624_102030.jpg 20200624_101851.jpg 20200624_101811.jpg
 

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Thanks for the photo's.

I had assumed you would need two, as their is a line plumbed from the valve cover to the intake on both banks?

Also, where is the smaller output line on your setup headed?
 

djkaosone

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I had assumed you would need two, as their is a line plumbed from the valve cover to the intake on both banks?

The other bank is completely clean without a speck of oil. It's unnecessary to put an oil catch can if there's no oil.

Also, where is the smaller output line on your setup headed?

The angle of the photo doesn't do it justice. There are 2 main inlet/outlet AN10 fittings, blue/red (inlet) and black/red (outlet). The 2 small push-fit valves are actually connected to each other with a clear tube, for oil level visibility. In the picture, it looks like it runs along the bottom with a black cable. The black 4 awg cable was an addition for engine grounding to the chassis. Unnecessary, but I'm leaving it there.
 

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The other bank is completely clean without a speck of oil. It's unnecessary to put an oil catch can if there's no oil.



The angle of the photo doesn't do it justice. There are 2 main inlet/outlet AN10 fittings, blue/red (inlet) and black/red (outlet). The 2 small push-fit valves are actually connected to each other with a clear tube, for oil level visibility. In the picture, it looks like it runs along the bottom with a black cable. The black 4 awg cable was an addition for engine grounding to the chassis. Unnecessary, but I'm leaving it there.


Thanks.

I'm going to go poke around my intake now and see if the driver's side bank is clean like yours. I just assumed they both needed it after the amount of oil it puddled on my garage floor.

Will report back later.
 

djkaosone

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20200624_101941.jpg

This is what the driver's side looks like, clean.
 

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Big thanks to djkaosone for blazing the trail on this mod — definitely walking in some big footsteps here. I recently completed an oil catch can install on my 2011 LR4 (5.0L V8 naturally aspirated), and wanted to share my approach in case it helps others.

Here’s a breakdown of what I did:
  1. Mounting Location & Bracket
    I noticed two unused studs in the passenger-side engine bay, right above the wheel well. I welded a custom bracket to mount the catch can and secured it using nylon nuts, since the coarse threads weren’t suitable for standard nuts.
  2. Preserving the Factory PCV Breather
    I didn’t want to risk damaging the factory PCV breather tube, so I ordered a replacement to harvest the fittings. A heat gun made removing the plastic fittings much easier without cracking them.
  3. Parts Used
  4. Install Notes
    Overall, the install was straightforward. The hoses routed cleanly and the bracket mount feels solid. So far, everything is working great — no codes, no leaks, and it fits neatly out of the way.
Photos attached of the final install. Thanks again to this awesome forum and especially djkaosone for the inspiration!

FYI, I'm NOT using affiliate links.

View album 165
 
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