Fuses

[RoverGuy7]

Be patient, it's a tight fit in there, but not bad, pretty straight forward.

And yeah, the charging system on this can let the battery be down to, and even below 12V when running. Having extra loads turned on(radio, ac) should force it to raise the voltage a little, which will lower the current draw through the fuse.( @ 12v, 240W load draws 20A. At 14v, 240W load draws just over 17A.)

Also, running the compressor constant will cause its motor to warm up, and will increase the load. So, if possible, give it time to cool between uses.

 

[Finlayforprez]

Be patient, it's a tight fit in there, but not bad, pretty straight forward.

And yeah, the charging system on this can let the battery be down to, and even below 12V when running. Having extra loads turned on(radio, ac) should force it to raise the voltage a little, which will lower the current draw through the fuse.( @ 12v, 240W load draws 20A. At 14v, 240W load draws just over 17A.)

Also, running the compressor constant will cause its motor to warm up, and will increase the load. So, if possible, give it time to cool between uses.

Thank you!

The last couple times this happened on my 2011, I brought it to the dealership (I live 3 miles away from one) and they did it quick and for free. I'd rather try to prevent it or do it myself. I don't use the rear 12V AV plug too often, so I will wait till I get the new fuses I bought and try it myself.

I think I am planning a second battery install.

-David

 

[Finlayforprez]

i plug my compressor into the battery (like jumper cables), until i do the second battery mod.....

I am seriously thinking of the second battery installation as well as I would like an ARB fridge/freezer. Do you have any idea of the price? I know it was mentioned previously at some point?

I think this is the one recommended....

http://www.traxide.com.au/complete-...very-3-dbs-kits/d3-as--sc80-standard-kit.html

It looks like LR4 owners need to buy the one for the Discovery 3 - The Discovery 4 one seems to fit only non-LR4s???

I need to look back at that thread.

 

[mbw]

I am seriously thinking of the second battery installation as well as I would like an ARB fridge/freezer. Do you have any idea of the price? I know it was mentioned previously at some point?

I think this is the one recommended....

http://www.traxide.com.au/complete-...very-3-dbs-kits/d3-as--sc80-standard-kit.html

It looks like LR4 owners need to buy the one for the Discovery 3 - The Discovery 4 one seems to fit only non-LR4s???

I need to look back at that thread.

That is extremely confusing. What now? (I also have this mod on my near term list of todo)


EDIT:... ya, i see at the bottom of that page that it is for our NAS D4's. I am interested in adding a rear power plug also, so ill have to find out what kit that is.

 

[Finlayforprez]

That is extremely confusing. What now? (I also have this mod on my near term list of todo)


EDIT:... ya, i see at the bottom of that page that it is for our NAS D4's. I am interested in adding a rear power plug also, so ill have to find out what kit that is.

Here is the original post - very helpful, but seems a bit complicated as far as having to relocate the transfer case control unit. I think the whole thing is pretty plug and play, but one the LR4 we gotta do some moving around. I know Umberto did the install as well.

http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23254&highlight=traxide+battery

 

[umbertob]

It's simple enough if you are handy with tools, but don't expect to finish in a few hours (the Traxide web page says 30-45 min, lol! Takes longer just to read their exhaustive and very helpful instructions enclosed with the kit), this will take you all day, and that's if you are really good at it. Relocating the t-case module is actually very easy if you follow those instructions and have the right brackets on hand, the hardest part of the job (for me) was running the fairly chunky wire from the new battery through the engine firewall, under the carpet all the way to the back of the car to install the new 12v receptacles. The peace of mind of having that extra battery on tap when I plug in all my various appliances made it worth the hassle. Plus, because the Traxide kit always monitors and "tops off" the cranking battery as needed, my car starts better.

Regarding air compressors, the only ones that I've found fast enough for inflating our chunky tires draw way more than the 20 amps ceiling of most cigs lighters, so they must hook up directly to the battery leads with alligator clips. If I weren't as cheap as I am, I would have purchased a Viair 450PA, 100% duty cycle, auto shutoff, quiet, built like a tank and super fast. Probably the best, small portable 12v compressor there is. Instead, I got the compressor of choice for cheapos like me, the Masterflow MV-1050, aka Q-Indusries MV-50, available everywhere for about 60-70 bucks. I've had it for 7 years, it still works very well although I blew through a handful of 30a in-line fuses by running it for too long (it gets so hot it can burn your fingers when you are removing the inflation hose after use, so watch out.) Its build quality is nothing to get excited about, the included gauge is a joke and the inflation hose is very cheaply made and about 2-3 feet too short, but it airs my 18" tires up from 30 to 38-42 psi in less than 2 minutes each, not bad at all for 70 bucks. Beggars can't be choosers.

 

[drivesafe]

Hi RoverGuy7 and the use of Wattage as the load indication is very confusing as with most DC devices, as the voltage rises, so does the current draw of the device.

Hi Finlay and your problem is two fold, because the wire run to the rear cargo area power socket is long and uses thin wire, your compressor is causing a fair bit of voltage drop.

While the voltage drop at the compressor means a drop in current draw, as posted above, this high current draw causes the wire to heat up, not much but that heat is created by the wire using some of the current.

So between the compressor current draw and the wire’s energy use, you are exceeding the fuses capacity.

This is actually a good thing because fuses are designed as short circuit protection, not current overload protection, and when you are using your compressor at the front and the fuse does not blow, because the current draw is at the fuses maximum continuos tolerance, it is not uncommon for a fuse being work like this, to melt, and this can cause other problems.

You should never apply a continuos current load greater than 75% of the a fuses marked rate. In your case, anything over 15 amps is too high for the 20 amp fuses.

You need to run thicker wire/cable and then use a 30 amp fuse to protect the new cable and this thicker cable will also allow your compressor to run better and slightly cooler because it won’t be working as hard with the high voltage thicker cable delivers.

Also, power sockets, even though some of them are rated at 15 amps, they do not handle loads rated the 7 to 10 amp very well.

One more point, if you order one of my kits, remind me you want to run a compressor from the rear and I will provide you with a couple of sets of 30 Anderson Power Poles instead of the kits normal Power Socket. The cable in my kit is already 4 to 8 times thicker than the LR socket cable so voltage drop is dramatically reduced.

 

[Kaaae]

Thanks Drivesafe. Excellent info.

 

[Finlayforprez]

Thanks Drivesafe. Excellent info.

Ditto... Thanks so much! This is a GREAT thread and so much help.

Much appreciated.

-David

 

[mbw]

Where do you get the alarm bracket for the t-case module? anyone have a specific part number that has worked for them?