Green/Orange/Factory LCA Bushings from Atlantic British?

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BrandonM7

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I was planning on doing my LCA myself, but when when my mechanic quoted me around $260 for the job, I jumped all over it. I'd probably pay that even if I had a vehicle lift at home.

Oh HELL yeah I would've payed $260 for that. I would have payed considerably more now that I've done it. My dude wanted about $1500 not including parts. I wasn't willing to go that far.
 

jwest

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The end links are connected to the upper control arms, not the lower.

Yes, that occurred to me later as to why I said they go more with the upper job.

None of my bolts had to be cut or sawed at. Guess I was lucky considering this was all original with I think close to 130k. Decent air tools and impact gear might've helped.

I thought the sway bar was one of the easier things to do. My Rasta engine guard only has 6 maybe 8 bolts that are quick work then there are 4 on the sway clamps, 2 per end link. The only tricky part really is the approach angle to the driver side upper sway bushing clamp bolt as part of the engine/steering is in the way. I loosened the 3 huge bolts in that area which allows more direct access but still the clamp bolt wants a 3/8 drive sized short swivel impact on it.

On the strut tops, a 1/4 drive flex head extra long with stubby 15mm worked perfectly from the open fender liner side. No problem once I had the right tool for that spot. A 3/8 or non flex would never do it. It's possibly my tool set is now easily worth more than the lr3 lol

A few key tools for suspension area lr3/4 work:

snap on "high performance" 0 degree box wrenches super long for leverage. I specify brand here because of the 12 point alignment offset from axis.
I used proto medium offset box, deep offset, and their super sweet spline ratcheting combi both in std length and stubby.

Some brands have even slightly different shapes and bends in similar degree offset so it's worth comparing or having both ;)

1/4 3/8 1/2 drive with flex heads and deep and short sockets. Super stubby are so useful as well in some spots.

Also of high value sometimes are "thin wall" impact.

My lr3 had different sized front vs rear hub nuts which was a surprise and luck to have a 32 and 36 deep impact 3/4 drive on hand. My preferred air tool as actually Proto after much research and bench test results. Plus they have some versatile sizes and outputs such as mini compact standard size.

One day on an outing after installing the strut spacers and choosing to use an iffy air line splice thingy, I had to fix it after it disconnected 30 miles away from a highway. luckily warm, dry and plenty of light. Removed strut, pulled slack line, directly mounted to strut - as it should been from the start but i had to redo it at home after heating the line to bend it for proper routing into the strut through the spacer. The trailside job with sparse tools took about 2 hrs. high lift worked for putting blocking under engine guard, did in fact remove fender liner because i did NOT have the above mentioned 1/4 drive ext long flex head with stubby 15mm !

It's been fine since though and I took my gf and a friend out the Naches Pass Trail here near Rainier so that should've bounced it apart if anything could.

Moral of story, know the tools you need, and make a tight kit to leave in the vehicle. I now have a full set but mostly of only the sizes needed seeing as some sizes simply aren't on the rover.
 

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