Guess how much my dealer charges for tie-rods?
- Thread starter Drew888
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OK, more detail:
Not tie-rods but control arm bushings are shot (evidenced by clunking noises-reason we brought it in)=$roughly $1500 for all 4.
Battery + neg cable = $424
Throttle body injector service = $260 (we notice a slightly rough idle and very slight surging, slight as in barely detectable by me).
Brake Fluid replacement = $160
Power Steering fluid service = $190
With labor $2866.
We are due for the 60k service thus the other items.
Ouch....
Not tie-rods but control arm bushings are shot (evidenced by clunking noises-reason we brought it in)=$roughly $1500 for all 4.
Battery + neg cable = $424
Throttle body injector service = $260 (we notice a slightly rough idle and very slight surging, slight as in barely detectable by me).
Brake Fluid replacement = $160
Power Steering fluid service = $190
With labor $2866.
We are due for the 60k service thus the other items.
Ouch....
Houm_WA
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Cost of ownership....
OUCH! I just replaced my battery today with the 85 month interstate battery for $158.00. also my dealer was in line with Atlantic British with the bushings EXCEPT the lower and the dealer wanted 4 times the amount for that specific bushing which is the main failure one. I suggest looking around for option that can save you some $!
You can pick up your own Interstate Battery and fit it yourself quite a bit cheaper $184.00 to be exact, and most likely that is what they will install. The negative cable is also quite inexpensive.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/...1-2147384848-4294493597-4294493417-2147384906
The negative battery cables are prone to corrosion for some reason on these vehicles. This results in corrosion at the terminal end, and at the body mount point. One possible stopgap is to seal the terminal and battery top and monitor for corrosion. It is important to prevent or stop corrosion because the battery sits over some expensive wiring and electronics. You can see a few pictures of a corroded cable, and battery box pictures here; www / disco3 / co / uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5042[/url]
I have attempted to seal up the unit and am monitoring it to see how it holds up. I used 3M 1601 insulating spray (not cheap) http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...0000_nid=GS158F27QDgsVB2NDGZBTHglVDLCGSLMFMbl
The throttle body injector service is a joke. I did have some errors, and they "performed the service" which resulted in more computer errors on my way home. I started running some Sea Foam every other tank, and it cleared up and never came back. I would point out that someone, therealassmike pointed out a decent method to clean it yourself which might be more effective, and certainly cheaper.
The control arm bushing assembly is worth replacing, at about 225 for the improved version online for the front with enlarge ball joint, the rear is less expensive. I just replace my upper and lower fronts, the bushes in upper and lower rear, wheel bearings, Front CV joints, boots, diff rebuild front, brakes and rotors (EBC) all the way around, ARB bushes, and rebuilt all air shocks with Koni Dampers at a good independent, total labor a little over 3k (40 hours labor), I supplied the parts (about 1500.00) + 900 for the Koni FSD. In the end, because I had 103k and had one bush replacement previously on the front. The front and rear bushes were clanking, I opted to replace everything at once which is more labor up front, but in the long run avoids having to take the same components apart multiple times, so it is cheaper in the long run.
For me, the vehicle now drives better than new it seems.... stay tuned.
Keep in mind, they did not quote you for a 4 wheel alignment which will be need after you put 50-100 miles on it. (169.00) at the dealer. That is one of the few things I would leave to the dealer. I would note the dealer no longer considers height calibration part of the alignment if you want it checked / adjusted you probably need to specifically ask if it is included and how much extra it might be, if any.
This sort of thing is quite common at the dealer which is why I got a bit soured on them, paying 150% retail for parts in the shop, extremely high shop rates, loose and missing bolts and bits underneath the vehicle.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/...1-2147384848-4294493597-4294493417-2147384906
The negative battery cables are prone to corrosion for some reason on these vehicles. This results in corrosion at the terminal end, and at the body mount point. One possible stopgap is to seal the terminal and battery top and monitor for corrosion. It is important to prevent or stop corrosion because the battery sits over some expensive wiring and electronics. You can see a few pictures of a corroded cable, and battery box pictures here; www / disco3 / co / uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5042[/url]
I have attempted to seal up the unit and am monitoring it to see how it holds up. I used 3M 1601 insulating spray (not cheap) http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...0000_nid=GS158F27QDgsVB2NDGZBTHglVDLCGSLMFMbl
The throttle body injector service is a joke. I did have some errors, and they "performed the service" which resulted in more computer errors on my way home. I started running some Sea Foam every other tank, and it cleared up and never came back. I would point out that someone, therealassmike pointed out a decent method to clean it yourself which might be more effective, and certainly cheaper.
The control arm bushing assembly is worth replacing, at about 225 for the improved version online for the front with enlarge ball joint, the rear is less expensive. I just replace my upper and lower fronts, the bushes in upper and lower rear, wheel bearings, Front CV joints, boots, diff rebuild front, brakes and rotors (EBC) all the way around, ARB bushes, and rebuilt all air shocks with Koni Dampers at a good independent, total labor a little over 3k (40 hours labor), I supplied the parts (about 1500.00) + 900 for the Koni FSD. In the end, because I had 103k and had one bush replacement previously on the front. The front and rear bushes were clanking, I opted to replace everything at once which is more labor up front, but in the long run avoids having to take the same components apart multiple times, so it is cheaper in the long run.
For me, the vehicle now drives better than new it seems.... stay tuned.
Keep in mind, they did not quote you for a 4 wheel alignment which will be need after you put 50-100 miles on it. (169.00) at the dealer. That is one of the few things I would leave to the dealer. I would note the dealer no longer considers height calibration part of the alignment if you want it checked / adjusted you probably need to specifically ask if it is included and how much extra it might be, if any.
This sort of thing is quite common at the dealer which is why I got a bit soured on them, paying 150% retail for parts in the shop, extremely high shop rates, loose and missing bolts and bits underneath the vehicle.
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victorhess
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Replacing my lower control arms at the dealership tomorrow. Front lower control arms (due to bad bushings) and alignment for estimated $970. It's an '06 with 93k so I'm sure it's due. I hope this lasts 50k per the comments above!
goinsurfin
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I'll to this thread..
I'm taking mine in Monday to local indy shop to do the 90k service + spark plugs. for $700. My control arms were originally replaced before 50k but to date, I do not have any clunking sounds. He said he'll check them out and if they need replacing or anything else comes up, I'll have him replace them. My battery corrodes too..
Question, anyone do their alignments NOT at LR dealers? Thanks.
I'm taking mine in Monday to local indy shop to do the 90k service + spark plugs. for $700. My control arms were originally replaced before 50k but to date, I do not have any clunking sounds. He said he'll check them out and if they need replacing or anything else comes up, I'll have him replace them. My battery corrodes too..
Question, anyone do their alignments NOT at LR dealers? Thanks.
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