LR4 squealing brake pads with a recent change from the dealer...

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LB Bill

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Kind of confused by that
Ditto, that is confusing..intentionally..I think. FWIW, Here's my understanding of the difference between OEM/OE/'Genuine'. The Ferodo pads from FCP are OE. The 'Genuine' version (w/the Land Rover stamp) are available from Atlantic British @ $299.95 for the fronts only, and of course from the dealer for $$$$..who knows? (I'm afraid to ask). The service advisor said they use something other than the LR labeled ones in the pic you posted? Odd..

From FCP:

OE OEM are indicators that the part you're buying meets or exceeds the quality of the original item in your vehicle. In general, OE means the part is the exact piece used in original manufacturing, while OEM means that the company is held to a high quality standard and that they produce OE parts for other manufacturers. When it comes to OE quality level, drag the sliders across every photo on this page to see exactly what we mean!

Original Equipment (OE) Parts: These are the same parts originally supplied to dealerships, except with the dealer logos removed. This is done by manufacturers so the parts can be sold outside the dealer network due to licensing agreements.

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Parts: These are produced by a manufacturer that supplies at least one OE part to a vehicle manufacturer. OEM parts may not have been original to the car, but are held to higher-quality standards and stringent quality control.

Genuine Parts: These parts come branded by the vehicle manufacturer and at a premium cost, as they're sold through dealerships with higher overhead expenses. These are the same parts you would find at your local dealership.
 

Daveykid

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Ditto, that is confusing..intentionally..I think. FWIW, Here's my understanding of the difference between OEM/OE/'Genuine'. The Ferodo pads from FCP are OE. The 'Genuine' version (w/the Land Rover stamp) are available from Atlantic British @ $299.95 for the fronts only, and of course from the dealer for $$$$..who knows? (I'm afraid to ask). The service advisor said they use something other than the LR labeled ones in the pic you posted? Odd..

From FCP:

OE OEM are indicators that the part you're buying meets or exceeds the quality of the original item in your vehicle. In general, OE means the part is the exact piece used in original manufacturing, while OEM means that the company is held to a high quality standard and that they produce OE parts for other manufacturers. When it comes to OE quality level, drag the sliders across every photo on this page to see exactly what we mean!

Original Equipment (OE) Parts: These are the same parts originally supplied to dealerships, except with the dealer logos removed. This is done by manufacturers so the parts can be sold outside the dealer network due to licensing agreements.

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Parts: These are produced by a manufacturer that supplies at least one OE part to a vehicle manufacturer. OEM parts may not have been original to the car, but are held to higher-quality standards and stringent quality control.

Genuine Parts: These parts come branded by the vehicle manufacturer and at a premium cost, as they're sold through dealerships with higher overhead expenses. These are the same parts you would find at your local dealership.
I'll press him for a better explanation. Most customers buy the bulls**t they are told by the dealers. They must hate guys like us who press them all the time.
 

greiswig

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I'll press him for a better explanation. Most customers buy the bulls**t they are told by the dealers. They must hate guys like us who press them all the time.
I work for a company that makes software for dealerships, and I do research on them. IME, it's the Service Advisors who hate that pushback and questioning, and don't ike to get caught. Their job, really, is to upsell and generate revenue, more than to earn a long-term customer. However, if you can get to the Service Tech, they are more open and sympathetic, and can often influence the way the repair goes in a positive way.
 

Daveykid

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I work for a company that makes software for dealerships, and I do research on them. IME, it's the Service Advisors who hate that pushback and questioning, and don't ike to get caught. Their job, really, is to upsell and generate revenue, more than to earn a long-term customer. However, if you can get to the Service Tech, they are more open and sympathetic, and can often influence the way the repair goes in a positive way.
Excellent point. My last svc tech ended up "quitting". I suspect his honesty wasn't completely appreciated. I also caught the svc advisor in a couple lies and my dash cam picked it all up. They know it's on too. It makes quite the chime every time it picks up cabin motion from the off position.
 

Daveykid

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Final comments...the dealer replaced all the pads for free. They are now using the attached when the OEM pads squeal excessively. They said so far zero complaints. The initial bite is far superior to the stock pads they put on earlier. Haven't had to do any panic stops yet so we'll see how they hold up under those circumstances.
 

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DiscoLR4

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I got the fedoro pads from fcp euro as well. Rotor still genuine. I changed them myself and it squeals. I've driven less than 1k miles since replacement, hoping it'll stop soon.
 

San Moritz LR4

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I’m going to give a shoutout to Penske Land Rover. Every time I took my truck in for a scheduled service, they would comp my Discovery Sport or Jag rental. I know I was paying a premium for service BUT, I never had to come back because it wasn’t fixed right the first time. That includes a few brake jobs along the way.
 

Daveykid

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I got the fedoro pads from fcp euro as well. Rotor still genuine. I changed them myself and it squeals. I've driven less than 1k miles since replacement, hoping it'll stop soon.
I'm hoping the noise is gone. My rotors are OEM as well so we'll see what happens.
 

ktm525

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I got the fedoro pads from fcp euro as well. Rotor still genuine. I changed them myself and it squeals. I've driven less than 1k miles since replacement, hoping it'll stop soon.

What was the general condition of the rotors? Did they have a sizeable lip from wear? I assume they were still above minimum thickness spec?

Did you:

Clean and grease the caliper sliding pins (silicone only)
Use fresh brake hardware (pad retaining clips) with a dab of silicone on the pad tabs
Take emery cloth and clean up your rotor surfaces (deglaze)

Last one is important.
 

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