Has anyone had headgasket done?

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jwise87

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I cleaned out the loose material in the cat. Hopefully it doesn't plug. No emission checks here so I can live with a check engine light if I need to. My heads were warped out of spec so I have some used ones coming from ebay that I will send to the machine shop, and fingers crossed they check out ok, if not they go back. I talked to a service manager at LR in St. Louis and he said if they warp heads they generally go with a salvage engine. I priced it out and it is about 8 grand vs. 4 grand for the stuff I need to do heads. Plus, I don't have any way that I would trust to pull the body off so I could get to the engine. To do the engine without pulling the body looks like I would need to pull the front dif, radiator, and grille, or pull the heads off the new engine and put it in one piece at a time.
 

BrandonM7

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I cleaned out the loose material in the cat. Hopefully it doesn't plug. No emission checks here so I can live with a check engine light if I need to. My heads were warped out of spec so I have some used ones coming from ebay that I will send to the machine shop, and fingers crossed they check out ok, if not they go back. I talked to a service manager at LR in St. Louis and he said if they warp heads they generally go with a salvage engine. I priced it out and it is about 8 grand vs. 4 grand for the stuff I need to do heads. Plus, I don't have any way that I would trust to pull the body off so I could get to the engine. To do the engine without pulling the body looks like I would need to pull the front dif, radiator, and grille, or pull the heads off the new engine and put it in one piece at a time.

Damn. Sounds like tons of fun.
 

BeemerNut

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I cleaned out the loose material in the cat. Hopefully it doesn't plug. No emission checks here so I can live with a check engine light if I need to. My heads were warped out of spec so I have some used ones coming from ebay that I will send to the machine shop, and fingers crossed they check out ok, if not they go back. I talked to a service manager at LR in St. Louis and he said if they warp heads they generally go with a salvage engine. I priced it out and it is about 8 grand vs. 4 grand for the stuff I need to do heads. Plus, I don't have any way that I would trust to pull the body off so I could get to the engine. To do the engine without pulling the body looks like I would need to pull the front dif, radiator, and grille, or pull the heads off the new engine and put it in one piece at a time.

Dang bro, $4-$8K is way out of control.
Early D1's like my 95 had single layer steel head gaskets that were known to weep and leak by LR with replacements contacting me.
Rover's replacements of thicker composition gaskets lowering stock 9.35:1 compression down to 8.75:1 or lower numbers.
I recall 96 up (OB2 4.0) heads having smaller combustion chambers maintaining 9.35:1 compression with thicker composition head gaskets. Ok if driving in Mexico on 87 octane gas with a loss of Hp, Tq and efficiency.
Pick & Pull I located a totaled 97 LR D1 (broadside) of 38K original miles.
Removed heads and only charged $55 each before tax.
Stripped down, boiled, lightly dressed, seats and valves then added stiffer springs to Piper's cam specs.
Ported and port matched to the ported intake and exhaust manifolds.
Restored compression to 9.35:1 running with thicker composition head gaskets vs LR's patch job (hack) resulting in compression loss to 8.67:1.
Bottom line, do your homework instead of lining the dealership's pockets with money unless your in the "More Money Than Brains Club"
which Jay Leno has mentioned being "the president of that club".
 

jwise87

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Dang bro, $4-$8K is way out of control.
Early D1's like my 95 had single layer steel head gaskets that were known to weep and leak by LR with replacements contacting me.
Rover's replacements of thicker composition gaskets lowering stock 9.35:1 compression down to 8.75:1 or lower numbers.
I recall 96 up (OB2 4.0) heads having smaller combustion chambers maintaining 9.35:1 compression with thicker composition head gaskets. Ok if driving in Mexico on 87 octane gas with a loss of Hp, Tq and efficiency.
Pick & Pull I located a totaled 97 LR D1 (broadside) of 38K original miles.
Removed heads and only charged $55 each before tax.
Stripped down, boiled, lightly dressed, seats and valves then added stiffer springs to Piper's cam specs.
Ported and port matched to the ported intake and exhaust manifolds.
Restored compression to 9.35:1 running with thicker composition head gaskets vs LR's patch job (hack) resulting in compression loss to 8.67:1.
Bottom line, do your homework instead of lining the dealership's pockets with money unless your in the "More Money Than Brains Club"
which Jay Leno has mentioned being "the president of that club".

These motors are completely different than what you are talking about. The dealer is the only source for some of this stuff. So I had no choice. The engine you are referring to is over 25 years old and I'm sure I could find cheap parts for one of those as well. Plus there is a lot more info out there for it. These motors are all less than ten years old and come from premium brands, so good luck sneaking up on one. Congratulations you figured out how to fix a completely different motor in a completely different car one time. So why don't you stop trying to pat yourself on the back before you hurt your shoulder and stop filling my thread with you braggadocio.
 

BeemerNut

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"Not made by the same company"
Yup correct you are, 4.6 / 4.6 made in England, LR4's 5.0 by FoMoCo aka Ford as on the 2011 LR4 engine's cylinder heads.
I always knew Ford was a "premium brand".
At my end all licensed aircraft mechanics (A&P) rebuilding aircraft radial engines for a living also into the Buick / Olds 215 that became Rover's 3500 then 3.9, 4 & 4.6 engine series.
Rebuilding, machining and modifying them to our intended use from off idle off road torque to 6K rpm's sand rail racing engines.
Three of us went separate ways scouting seven different Pick-n-Pulls within a 60 mile radius the past 12 days.
First call finds my favorites the 4.6 engines after adding 3.9 style ram tube style velocity stacks after machining and modifying projects.
RPI relighted my flame with 4.6 engine mods after their performance chip and Piper cam purchase back in 2000.
One friend the sand rail racer located a 2011 LR4, I mentioned them having 375 hp. This a hit and rolled LR4 looking really sad.
I located a second 4.6 engine.
A complete 5.0 long block with brain box and wiring harness for future sand rail project a mid engine build requiring a machine to fit flywheel.
Out with the 4.6, in the 5.0, hope it works or my butts kicked.
I'll be stuck with some of machining, my big mouth transplant.
One long block, (best of two 4.6), one made into a short block core.
Prices we paid end of this read.

Back to your sick LR4 puppy.
Your warped heads, how can they be milled flat when the warp is on the head gasket side, the warp runs through to top of head including warping all the cam journals out of alignment once torqued down?
Push rod engine (4.6) not a problem, mill the head's rocker stand posts making them all equal height again.
Milling raising compression as well milling and correcting intake to head port alignments as well flatness. Milling heads causes port misalignments
but not as bad as factory Rover engines.
Running twin OHC with misaligned cam journals, no thanks, BOOM!
Not a "one time" LR repair at our end working on these aluminum engines 49 years and counting.
The three of us also into D1's and D90's, i'm suspended stiff a street only vehicle.

Cylinder heads, 4.6 $65 each, $11.99 core.
Short block 4.6 $119.99, $19.99 core.
Long block 4.6 $149.99, $19.99 core.
Heads 5.0 (LR4) w/cams $86.99, $11.99 core just to give you a price.
Long block 5.0 (LR4) $149.99 $19.99 core.
Ignition box (5.0(LR4) $25.99
Wiring harness $10.
Great to have my two scouts known at all these Pick-n-Pulls with a good relationship at most getting a discount.
They junk out LR's giving away "rollers" to Pick-n-Pulls, a push ' pull relationship.

Bottom line, your "premium brand" LR parts are not that exotic, rare or expensive.
BTW, Tig, Mig, Lathe and Bridgeport mill my personal toys.
No back pat needed, we fab and make chit work.

Good hunting best of luck with your LR4 repair.
 

BeemerNut

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KTM525,
I'd rather thump my 61 G80TCS.

Parts are out there for LR4's already, just have to look wide and deep for them at the right prices, right times. Not going to happen right away.
Scouts or friends always on the lookout sure expands your parts findings success.
Having the mechanical abilities, tools and equipment are another plus maintaining Land Rovers reducing the wallet ouch a lot.
As mentioned many times before, a "love hate relationship" or told, "in it too deep to get anything near the money sunk in it" keeping it the road.
My case a 5 year 60K by PO end of lease, it had 7 year 100K extended warranty I used for two years.
Couldn't wait until warranty expired to modify engine and suspension to my liking.
.....~~=o&o>......
 

ktm525

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You would rather thump a 61? Ok its a free world. You sound cool.
 

BeemerNut

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KTM525's impressed me with their low weight, high hp and 11:1 compression.
The G80TCS Matchless I lowered the compression to a street friendly factory 8.7:1 compression piston. The racing 12.3 CR is not practical on the street.
The Typhoon, (1959 to 61 only 125 made) has a special 89mm bore with 96mm ******, vs the 500's. The long ****** would not be street friendly to kick over above 9.0:1.
The racing Typhoon piston I replaced I recall was 12.3:1, removed it 36 years ago.
Other British bikes, three 850 Nortons, 73 and 74 Roadsters all right hand shift.
One 74 Interstate a Norton 1st place Norton international rally show winner.
Now own dad's (RIP), mutt powered with a 46 G80 500 thumper engine.
A R90/6 (900) , R90s (900) in Daytona Orange, R27 250 thumper.
Hooked on owning and riding British bikes from 1968.
Present run around town "beater bike" project, 85 Honda XL 350R converting to street use only. Wish it were a XL600.

......~~=o&o>.....
 
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