Been reading the forums for over a year now and I’m not the guy to post on forums let alone ask for help. I always think when I read posts… “dude there is twenty other posts just like yours, did you even look before you posted?”I don’t usually write in forums ever. I gotta ask for help.
TL;DR
-2006 Land Rover LR3
-Hazards flashing, Christmas Tree on the cluster
-Tried it all
-Help.
Full Story(ill try and be brief):
Bought this after wanting one for a long time. Bought it site unseen (in person) and had it shipped. Then only thing wrong with it then was the side airbags had deployed and the cats had been stolen. Other than that suspension, engine, radio, power windows, you name it, all of it was fine.
I pull it in the garage and spend a week getting new exhaust welded up to the thing so it doesn’t sound like a monster truck.
I accomplish this, though I have no purchased 02 sensors I just plugged them for now. Was ready to take it for a ride and the air suspension thought otherwise. Down on the bumps. I spend two and a half weeks attempting to straighten this out. Mind you, I started the Rover probably 150 times in this stretch. So I went from using my Foxwell NT809, then purchasing RSW Software Solutions getting and finally Purchasing a Launch x431 Elite, I got the air suspension out of fine tuning mode or whatever the hell its called. Everything worked exactly as it should. It would go up and down and I could change modes.
After everything was fix with the suspension I did the following things:
-I took both skid plates off the bottom to change the oil. They have not been put back on at all are still off.
-I put the wheel well back in the front passenger side wheel. It has since been removed again.
-I put air in the tires.
-I rinsed under the car because there was like baseball diamond dust underneath caked on everywhere. (kicking myself in the ass for this one).
-I marked each coil on the odd bank with a paint markers, swapped coil three and five because of a misfire my scan tools were reporting on five. I have swapped them back since this day.
Excited, I jump into it finally to take it for our firstr drive, reminder I have only drove this from my driveway directly into my garage when it had no cats. That is it. 15 whole feet. Loud as hell.
Now what happens next I'm going to try and not repeat over and over. Just know from this moment in the story, until this very second as I type these words all this range rover will do when the key in inserted and turned to 2 is:
-Hazards immediately start flashing
-Red brake and green hill assist flash non stop
-The the touch screen simply displays the “Land Rover” splash screen
-The CD player will shuffle through the disks
-Turn to crank and an audible click is heard on the passenger side behind the dash, I presume its the ecu.
-When the key gets turned back off the green hill assist always and sometimes the red brake continue to flash.
-the red flash every two or three seconds from anti theft I think in the cluster. That thing is absolutely ROCK SOLID. It flashes ever two or three or maybe its four seconds regardless of the key status, the weather, or whats on TV that night. It does its thing.
-the doors unlock and unlock a second tim6e.
That is it. NOTHING I do effects that group of friends I just listed. I have the entire interior out of the car right now. Here are the things I've tried and the tools I've used.
-Foxwell 809NT Diagnostic tool
-Launch x431 Elite
-RWS Solutions LR3 Software
-A fully functional Engineer copy of 130 and 163 and 164 of JLR SDD.
-Subscription to all data(let me know if you you need any diagrams ha ha)
-Subscription to identifix(let me know if you you need any diagrams lol)
-I swear I have read every forum regarding any thing remotely close to my issue.
-I've watched so many can bus courses and diagnostic videos it would make you sick. I bet I've watched every single LR Time those two have produced. Bastards are like family to me at this point.
(Also I'm well aware of the Gap tool) but I mess around with cars as a hobby and I just cannot pay 550 dollars for a tool that works on not just a single brand but a subset of vehicles that brand makes. Oh and then its locked to just one vin)
Things I've tried in no particular order:
-Brake Switch replaced.
-New battery.
-new bulbs.
-Another new battery.
-I have traced every single inch of wire on this car. From the horn to the electronic brake. There is no 4 to one splice of a red wire that I can find in my passenger channel. That being said, there was and had been water down there, and pretty substantially. I have literally checked every single wire from that foot-well, all the way to the third row of seats. I pulled the CJB and it had its share of corrosion. I I took it all apart and cleaned the crap out of it. I'm not going to say I'm Louis Ross man or anything but I know my way around a circuit board.
-Corrosion on the connectors of the TCCM. I clean those up and it seems to be fine.
-Very little corrosion on the PCM connectors. Cleaned up and seems to be working fine.
-All kinds of corrosion on the d module under the console. I tried cleaning it up but no go on it. JLR SDD reports every module as fine except the restraint one. It doesn’t see it. Now I can either use a two jumpers or I can put the restraint module back in seriers to route the canbus because the canbus goes in and then out of it much like it does the ride level control module.
-Ride level control module was spotless. No sign of water or anything.
-I made my rounds to all these modules chasing down the dead short that was in the HCAN. After that 4 day ordeal both medium and high speed are at exactly 60ohms.
-New instrument cluster, identical hardware revision made within six months of the vehicles origianal cluster. Still have the original.
-I have one key, I have reprogrammed it with both the Launch and SDD. As a matter of fact, I relearned the key in slots 2-8 one at a time thinking that could be it.
-I have swapped fuses and tested and tested and tested fuses and relays for hours. I have swapped known good with new, taken **** off my f150, if its on those blocks, ive spent alone time with it. Were just friends.
A few logical observations. Ill start with the big one that brought me to type this today.
I went around currently I have disconnected:
-the rfid ring from the key
-the SAS
-ride level control module.
-the restraint module
-parking brake control module
-whatever that little black box next to the resistant module is
-the shifter itself
-everything attached to the back of the center console
-the under seat dvd player
-the driver seat
-the passenger seat
-all three second row seats
-all the seatbelt alarms that go with all those
-parking assist control module
-ABS control module
-PCM
-TCCM
-Air Compressor
-parking brake above the spare
-main head unit
-the touch screen
-the ac control panel that doubles as some sort of power delivery for everything else. Also when its not hooked up the speaker in the IPC stops working.
-However the IPC is ALSO unhooked
-the dual cigarette lighters just below the ac controls
-the light switch on the left side of the steering wheel
-both multi function switch stocks (the blinker and the other one)
-the brake switch
I open the door and put the key it and guess what…
Flashing hazard lights, the doors unlock and then unlock again and if the IP was hooked up im sure it would tell its same old story.
Needless to say I need some suggestions.
I’m sure I forgot something or if you need clerification let me know. ANY help at all would be more than appriciated.
A few photos from along the way.
Thanks,
Michael
TL;DR
-2006 Land Rover LR3
-Hazards flashing, Christmas Tree on the cluster
-Tried it all
-Help.
Full Story(ill try and be brief):
Bought this after wanting one for a long time. Bought it site unseen (in person) and had it shipped. Then only thing wrong with it then was the side airbags had deployed and the cats had been stolen. Other than that suspension, engine, radio, power windows, you name it, all of it was fine.
I pull it in the garage and spend a week getting new exhaust welded up to the thing so it doesn’t sound like a monster truck.
I accomplish this, though I have no purchased 02 sensors I just plugged them for now. Was ready to take it for a ride and the air suspension thought otherwise. Down on the bumps. I spend two and a half weeks attempting to straighten this out. Mind you, I started the Rover probably 150 times in this stretch. So I went from using my Foxwell NT809, then purchasing RSW Software Solutions getting and finally Purchasing a Launch x431 Elite, I got the air suspension out of fine tuning mode or whatever the hell its called. Everything worked exactly as it should. It would go up and down and I could change modes.
After everything was fix with the suspension I did the following things:
-I took both skid plates off the bottom to change the oil. They have not been put back on at all are still off.
-I put the wheel well back in the front passenger side wheel. It has since been removed again.
-I put air in the tires.
-I rinsed under the car because there was like baseball diamond dust underneath caked on everywhere. (kicking myself in the ass for this one).
-I marked each coil on the odd bank with a paint markers, swapped coil three and five because of a misfire my scan tools were reporting on five. I have swapped them back since this day.
Excited, I jump into it finally to take it for our firstr drive, reminder I have only drove this from my driveway directly into my garage when it had no cats. That is it. 15 whole feet. Loud as hell.
Now what happens next I'm going to try and not repeat over and over. Just know from this moment in the story, until this very second as I type these words all this range rover will do when the key in inserted and turned to 2 is:
-Hazards immediately start flashing
-Red brake and green hill assist flash non stop
-The the touch screen simply displays the “Land Rover” splash screen
-The CD player will shuffle through the disks
-Turn to crank and an audible click is heard on the passenger side behind the dash, I presume its the ecu.
-When the key gets turned back off the green hill assist always and sometimes the red brake continue to flash.
-the red flash every two or three seconds from anti theft I think in the cluster. That thing is absolutely ROCK SOLID. It flashes ever two or three or maybe its four seconds regardless of the key status, the weather, or whats on TV that night. It does its thing.
-the doors unlock and unlock a second tim6e.
That is it. NOTHING I do effects that group of friends I just listed. I have the entire interior out of the car right now. Here are the things I've tried and the tools I've used.
-Foxwell 809NT Diagnostic tool
-Launch x431 Elite
-RWS Solutions LR3 Software
-A fully functional Engineer copy of 130 and 163 and 164 of JLR SDD.
-Subscription to all data(let me know if you you need any diagrams ha ha)
-Subscription to identifix(let me know if you you need any diagrams lol)
-I swear I have read every forum regarding any thing remotely close to my issue.
-I've watched so many can bus courses and diagnostic videos it would make you sick. I bet I've watched every single LR Time those two have produced. Bastards are like family to me at this point.
(Also I'm well aware of the Gap tool) but I mess around with cars as a hobby and I just cannot pay 550 dollars for a tool that works on not just a single brand but a subset of vehicles that brand makes. Oh and then its locked to just one vin)
Things I've tried in no particular order:
-Brake Switch replaced.
-New battery.
-new bulbs.
-Another new battery.
-I have traced every single inch of wire on this car. From the horn to the electronic brake. There is no 4 to one splice of a red wire that I can find in my passenger channel. That being said, there was and had been water down there, and pretty substantially. I have literally checked every single wire from that foot-well, all the way to the third row of seats. I pulled the CJB and it had its share of corrosion. I I took it all apart and cleaned the crap out of it. I'm not going to say I'm Louis Ross man or anything but I know my way around a circuit board.
-Corrosion on the connectors of the TCCM. I clean those up and it seems to be fine.
-Very little corrosion on the PCM connectors. Cleaned up and seems to be working fine.
-All kinds of corrosion on the d module under the console. I tried cleaning it up but no go on it. JLR SDD reports every module as fine except the restraint one. It doesn’t see it. Now I can either use a two jumpers or I can put the restraint module back in seriers to route the canbus because the canbus goes in and then out of it much like it does the ride level control module.
-Ride level control module was spotless. No sign of water or anything.
-I made my rounds to all these modules chasing down the dead short that was in the HCAN. After that 4 day ordeal both medium and high speed are at exactly 60ohms.
-New instrument cluster, identical hardware revision made within six months of the vehicles origianal cluster. Still have the original.
-I have one key, I have reprogrammed it with both the Launch and SDD. As a matter of fact, I relearned the key in slots 2-8 one at a time thinking that could be it.
-I have swapped fuses and tested and tested and tested fuses and relays for hours. I have swapped known good with new, taken **** off my f150, if its on those blocks, ive spent alone time with it. Were just friends.
A few logical observations. Ill start with the big one that brought me to type this today.
I went around currently I have disconnected:
-the rfid ring from the key
-the SAS
-ride level control module.
-the restraint module
-parking brake control module
-whatever that little black box next to the resistant module is
-the shifter itself
-everything attached to the back of the center console
-the under seat dvd player
-the driver seat
-the passenger seat
-all three second row seats
-all the seatbelt alarms that go with all those
-parking assist control module
-ABS control module
-PCM
-TCCM
-Air Compressor
-parking brake above the spare
-main head unit
-the touch screen
-the ac control panel that doubles as some sort of power delivery for everything else. Also when its not hooked up the speaker in the IPC stops working.
-However the IPC is ALSO unhooked
-the dual cigarette lighters just below the ac controls
-the light switch on the left side of the steering wheel
-both multi function switch stocks (the blinker and the other one)
-the brake switch
I open the door and put the key it and guess what…
Flashing hazard lights, the doors unlock and then unlock again and if the IP was hooked up im sure it would tell its same old story.
Needless to say I need some suggestions.
I’m sure I forgot something or if you need clerification let me know. ANY help at all would be more than appriciated.
A few photos from along the way.
Thanks,
Michael
