I need to replace my fuel pump!

[Chantel]

I took another look at the engine and found what i believe is the fuel pressure check valve. It was a stem like a bicycle tire on the fuel rail with a blue cap on it. I turned the engine to ON, then depressed the valve stem and it shot out fuel. Tried this twice and did it both times. Then, I tried to start it and after several seconds it did fire up, then immediately shut off again after running for about one second. So, I assume the system is priming, which would make me think that maybe the fuel pump isn't dead? Below is a photo of the blue capped valve I depressed.

View attachment 10432

So, is my fuel pump dead? Could it be a clog in the fuel filter? In the line? Could the water infiltration issues that killed my key fob relay be doing something? Oh, one last thing, when I began investigating the issue, I found a dead mouse under the engine cover. He had made a nest using the foam from the bottom of the engine cover. He had also slightly chewed some wires, but they are still in tact. I do need to tape them up, but I wasn't sure what effect it would have on the fuel system.

I am not sure if similar to the LR3 but I have a 2011 LR4 that had about 75000 miles at the time the Land Rover put 2 yes 2 fuel pumps on my truck and still did not help with a simile problem you described above- finally a shop (not Land Rover repair) found a sensor that was bad..and it totally fixed the problem. I currently have 205000 miles on it and still running great!

 

[remember5]

Any idea which sensor it was?

 

[Brotato]

After reading this thread, I couldn’t help but think the first thing to try and sort out would be the key fob. If the key fob isn’t being read properly it could create a security issue that would allow the truck to start, but it would Shut down automatically after one second. Might be worth checking.
I hope you get it figured out soon. I’m following this one.

 

[Stevie]

I know this is an old thread but do either of you have any advice on priming the fuel line?

 

[Stevie]

How do i bleed the fuel lines to get gas back to the engine?

 

[remember5]

Guess I should have updated, my problem turned out to be the fuel pump relay, I changed it out and have had zero issues since then, that was like 4 months ago. I never had to bleed anything when I replaced my pump, just turned it over until it started.

 

[rigorivero]

I’m having the same issue with my 2007 LR3. It cranks for a long time before it starts, but one it starts it runs smooth all day long. I noticed it starts happening when my fuel level is low. When my tank is full or over 1/2 it starts right up. I’ll replace the fuel pump relay and see if that solves it.

 

[DakotaTravler]

Thread necromancy... sorry. But I want to point out something. On this thread, post #10 shows the two pumps. Keep in mine the Petrol 4.4 V8 used a different pump than used in a diesel as shown in post #9 YouTube link. In a diesel, the pump is often called the low pressure or lift pump, it is the initial pump to get fuel out of the tank. A second pump is used on engine. The 4.4 V8 has one pump. That is why the pumps are different. The seller did not supply the wrong pump, the wrong pump was purchased There is not a ton of photos or info on the exact pump needed for the 4.4 V8 for some reason. Seem most replace the entire in take assembly, not just the pump itself which is Walbro part #F80000123 and apparently no longer produced. TI Automotive also supplied OEM pumps for LR, but they appear to be simply Walbro pumps rebadged.

 

[Hsiu1985]

You're on the right track. Those padded sticker panels under the carpet are likely your fuel pump access covers — peel them back carefully and you should see the pump assembly without gutting the interior. Before you go that far though, pull fuse #1 (25-amp in the battery box) and check for corrosion, then test the relay. A blown fuse or stuck relay will look exactly like a dead pump but is way cheaper to fix. The water concern is fair, but the fuel pump circuit gets power straight from the junction box, so unless that passenger-side harness is actually touching the pump connector, it's probably not your issue. Grab the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail and hook a gauge to it with the key on — you'll know in two minutes if the pump's truly done. Wrote a detailed breakdown of the access methods and diagnostics here: https://answerlode.com/cars-transportation/lr3-fuel-pump-replacement-access-guide/