Intermittent loss of power to instrument panel

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lr3seowner

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2008 LR3 SE

Panel will completely lose power while the car is on then turn back on. The issue started off randomly but now happens each time I drive the car. It usually lasts between a few seconds to a couple of minutes.

Few other symptoms that occur are power to the panel but no info. display and temp/fuel gauge needles not responding.

No other electrical issues to radio or interior of car.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

Chris Moffitt

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First thing you need to do is pull all your codes. Not just your generic P codes. There’s a great Bluetooth DLC from Autel. It’s the MaxiAP200. I think it runs about $75 and it’s scan all modules, provides freeze frame data, has live numerical information as well as graphing function on every available PID. It can reset your CEL, perform ABS brake bleed, calibrate sensors and ride height.
So enough about that. Once you pull your codes, your looking for loss of communication with the BCM specifically (or any modules generally). You may even see a voltage low for the panel or BCM. Once you get that far, post your findings.
 

bbyer

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This is an easier fix and is likely the problem.

The odds are that the signal connector plug feeding into the rear of the instrument cluster needs to be reset. Normally the problem manifests itself as the fuel or temp gauges not indicating or worse, the engine will not start.

The cluster contains the backup memory chip to the main chip located on the printed circuit board on the rear of the glove box fuse panel. This is why one cannot just source a junk yard instrument cluster - the VIN on the cluster chip has to match the VIN on the fuse box chip.

It seems the cable feeding the connector plug is a bit short and hence the connector is constantly tugged on. Over the years, the plug becomes a bit dislodged. While not easy to get at, it just needs to be unplugged and then replugged in.

Go to mark 11:35 / 12:38 of the video below and you will see that one and only electrical connector that attaches to the inboard rear of the of the instrument cluster.

It may be possible that one can get at the connector from under once some of the fancy has been removed and just try to joggle the plug - that might be enough. If the problem persists, at least you will know what to do.

 

lr3seowner

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This is an easier fix and is likely the problem.

The odds are that the signal connector plug feeding into the rear of the instrument cluster needs to be reset. Normally the problem manifests itself as the fuel or temp gauges not indicating or worse, the engine will not start.

The cluster contains the backup memory chip to the main chip located on the printed circuit board on the rear of the glove box fuse panel. This is why one cannot just source a junk yard instrument cluster - the VIN on the cluster chip has to match the VIN on the fuse box chip.

It seems the cable feeding the connector plug is a bit short and hence the connector is constantly tugged on. Over the years, the plug becomes a bit dislodged. While not easy to get at, it just needs to be unplugged and then replugged in.

Go to mark 11:35 / 12:38 of the video below and you will see that one and only electrical connector that attaches to the inboard rear of the of the instrument cluster.

It may be possible that one can get at the connector from under once some of the fancy has been removed and just try to joggle the plug - that might be enough. If the problem persists, at least you will know what to do.


Great, something worth trying first. Thanks and keep you posted of the result.
 

lr3seowner

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First thing you need to do is pull all your codes. Not just your generic P codes. There’s a great Bluetooth DLC from Autel. It’s the MaxiAP200. I think it runs about $75 and it’s scan all modules, provides freeze frame data, has live numerical information as well as graphing function on every available PID. It can reset your CEL, perform ABS brake bleed, calibrate sensors and ride height.
So enough about that. Once you pull your codes, your looking for loss of communication with the BCM specifically (or any modules generally). You may even see a voltage low for the panel or BCM. Once you get that far, post your findings.

I will try bbyer’s recommendation first but if it doesn’t work I will definitely try this next. Thank you and keep you posted.
 

bbyer

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I will try bbyer’s recommendation first but if it doesn’t work I will definitely try this next. Thank you and keep you posted.
I hope my connector idea works as all others are horrible.

That instrument cluster is the backup brains of the 3 so problems with the cluster are not usually problems simple to diagnose - fix maybe, but figure out, tough.

Yes, please keep us informed as what works and does not work is valuable for others.

The plug solution was something I read from material posted by some poor guy in Africa - if you think North America is a desert as far as Land Rover is concerned, Africa is both a Jungle and a Desert - not fun there to fix these new fangled transistorized Land Rovers.
 

RoverBones

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i agree with BBYER... i've seen many with the cable askew. Also have seen some bad solder joints in the unit itslelf (somewhat more involved to diagnos).
 

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