Jacking Options

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avslash

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They are definitely not a miracle, just another tool in the bag and another option before having to break out a hi-lift. I will go a long way or to a lot of trouble to avoid using one of those if I can. So far I have avoided knocking myself unconscious or breaking an arm or leg, but those damned things scare me every time I have to use one.

The exhaust jack is probably just something I need to buy and see if I can cobble together a solution.
 

djkaosone

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Troy A

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I just came across this and wanted to share with y'all. https://m.facebook.com/groups/1667428720239548/permalink/1843636205952131/

Just realized the original link is to a video in a private FB group. Here's another link.

I'm gonna start carrying a 2 ton bottle jack, full-time.
I grabbed a SafeJack and their cool jack stand and tested it under the LR4 one day in the driveway and was shocked to realize that using the standard jacking points on the chassis didn't work as even in full extension mode and with adapters, it couldn't lift the tire off the ground. With the jack fully compressed, you couldn't fit an extension on it and under the truck. And of course once loaded, you can't swap in an extension. And using it without an extender meant that at full extension, it couldn't get the tire off the ground. I see from the video above that somebody is just using a regular bottle jack under the rear control arm. The manual is very clear about using the jack points on the chassis and not jacking it from the suspension. Is that because the suspension will try to adjust itself? I ended up finding that only that silly little scissor jack could get the tire off the ground. So I keep the Safejack base plate in the truck with the scissor jack for now since that gives the scissor jack more stability.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

djkaosone

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@Troy Angrignon that was my experience as well. I can't find anything that'll do the job either. I've recently been using the "new" Harbor Freight 8 ton bottle jack which has a min of 9" and max of 18.x". It barely gets the job done with a 2x6 base plate.

Russ Goff, is a certified mobile Land Rover mechanic in UK and also the FB admin of that group. In the video, he simply shows how to use a regular 2 ton bottle jack. I figured it's way easier than what I'm currently doing and I don't need am extra scissor jack to help remove the bottle jack when done.

I found that Mercedes Sprinter vans have 3.3 ton Weber bottle jack that'll lift up to 22.5 inches, but I'm not paying over $200 on a used bottle jack.

I'm sure Land Rover cautions to ONLY use designated lifting points for legal reasons.
 

Kristina

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I’ll have to try the bottle Jack method. I’ve got an extra LR one that should fit in the cubby.
 

ryanjl

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Bumping this thread.

I've been thinking of throwing a bottle jack in my Rover to use instead of the scissor jack, but trying to figure out exactly what size to get. Any updates on this?

Looks like it's hard to find any bottle jack that will work in the stock jacking spots without the suspension droop maximizing the jack's lifting capabilities. The under the control arm method looks okay, if maybe a little dicey.

Does anyone make any adapter to fit on the end of a jack (bottle jack or otherwise) that secures the jack to the Rover's lifting points?
 

greiswig

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I got a Harbor Freight bottle jack, drilled and threaded a hole, and screwed in a threaded rod the right diameter. Seems to work fine.
 

ftillier

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I've been eyeing this telescoping bottle jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RWZ7KH3, the 4-ton one lifts all the way to 24" so can be used on the rear-center jacking point to lift the whole rear end at once. The 5-ton one is a bit shorter, but doesn't go quite as high. I'm also noodling getting the tactical 4x4 sliders, which seems to cover the locating holes in the frame member, so the factory jack won't really work anymore.
 

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