Low Coolant Light

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

txfromwi

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Posts
494
Reaction score
248
Location
2013 & 2015 Houston TX. 2016 Rochester NY
That seems to tell me that there is air in the system. Compresses down under pressure and then expands back when pressure is released. Two ways to address that, bleed or vacuum... It might, maybe circulate out, but I think that's unlikely. Keep an eagle eye on that temperature gauge!
 

djkaosone

'11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
1,004
Reaction score
674
Location
SoCal
You definitely have a big air pocket. Next time check to see if your upper coolant hose is squished before opening the expansion tank.

@txfromwi basically said the best way to fill coolant to your engine block is through the port in the picture. I have the 5.0, and I've used a syringe to fill a similar port and another (gray) port next to the throttle body. It works, but you'll still have a tiny air pocket after. Just top it off. Filling it will ensure coolant will at least flow through.
 

M32H32IS

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Posts
173
Reaction score
60
Location
Texas
You definitely have a big air pocket. Next time check to see if your upper coolant hose is squished before opening the expansion tank.

@txfromwi basically said the best way to fill coolant to your engine block is through the port in the picture. I have the 5.0, and I've used a syringe to fill a similar port and another (gray) port next to the throttle body. It works, but you'll still have a tiny air pocket after. Just top it off. Filling it will ensure coolant will at least flow through.
Do you mind sharing a pic of this valve? I’ve got a 5.0 as well & haven’t found the valve @txfromwi shared in the pic in page 1 of this thread.
 

M32H32IS

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Posts
173
Reaction score
60
Location
Texas
Not sure if it helps, but my rear heat is intermittent. It’ll blow hot for a while, then cold.

Front is hot 24/7
 

Mozambique

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Posts
274
Reaction score
29
Location
toronto
For a 5.0L V8 the bleed valve is shown below
20230129_152326.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20230129_152320.jpg
    20230129_152320.jpg
    73.6 KB · Views: 34

Mozambique

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Posts
274
Reaction score
29
Location
toronto
I would let the shop sort it out at this point. Just make sure tactfully that they are aware of the correct bleed procedure. The DIY at home procedure involves raising the expansion tank a couple of inches. Google it to find the procedure. Make sure they replaced the bleed valve with a new one. The replacement crossover does not come with a new one. They go brittle and can fail too.
 

M32H32IS

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Posts
173
Reaction score
60
Location
Texas
Update: issue only persists then the heater is being used. Drove 100 miles today without heater (brutal BTW) and no issues.

I either have a failing heater core or an airlock in the heater lines.

Im guessing it’s in the rear since that’s the intermittent heat.
 

alldazed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2022
Posts
59
Reaction score
27
Location
ontario
I have a 2011 sc in a rrs. There is another bleeder valve on the passenger side towards the rear of the engine bay that I’m pretty sure comes from the heater core. I had a pretty big airlock in there from when I changed the water pump. There is a video on Atlantic British website that explains bleeding the system. I have followed it twice now after water pump replacements and it has worked. Not as cleanly as the video would have you believe as it tends to burp and spill over and you have to be ready to top up quickly but it does work.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,183
Posts
217,036
Members
30,444
Latest member
LR4TAZZ
Top