LR4 5.0 Chain Guides actual problem?

[ryanjl]

Yeah, not sure. I feel like we are on the safer end of the spectrum, as the problem seems to have reared its head more on supercharged Range Rovers.

I'm just hoping that if it ever needs to be done on mine, it's sometime before December while I'm still under warranty. If it happens after that, I'll probably just sell it as opposed to paying $5k or more to have it done.

 

[Saltyfly]

Pretty much a copy/paste from my thread about expected injector life and if I should replace them during my Timing Chain job...just incase some of you are not following it and are curious what the chain slop/rattling sounds like, here's a video clip before the full timing chain, guide, and tensioner replacement is done. I should get it back on Friday, so I'll post an after video as well.

2012 LR4, 66k miles, VIN falls under the TSB for guides and tensioners.

 

[BeemerNut]

Interestiuidesng. It must be really bad in some motors then.

His explanation of the engine trying to "put in" timing around 6:15 or so is way out of left field... Almost as bad as calling this a Ford engine!

I heard it as "timing chain guide slop".
Slop must be the normal Limey standard of quality control.
I had a brand new from LR 4.6 litre short block that once installed and running was a out of balance a shaker vibrating the dash at different rpm zones.
Told by a LR certified mechanic that test rode the D1 "it was within LR's spec tolerances this engine has a out of balance crankshaft assembly.
Had the flywheel surfaced and balanced as well the pressure plate then index marked to flywheel then assembly balance checked again. Clutch disc was no prize either requiring a little rebalance correction.
Flywheel balance was darn near perfect removed off the old 3.9 engine.
There are a lot of Ford engines still running around with over 300K miles on them without timing chains or any thing remotely resembling low mileage failing timing chain guide failures.
.....~~=o&o>......

 

[BeemerNut]

Pretty much a copy/paste from my thread about expected injector life and if I should replace them during my Timing Chain job...just incase some of you are not following it and are curious what the chain slop/rattling sounds like, here's a video clip before the full timing chain, guide, and tensioner replacement is done. I should get it back on Friday, so I'll post an after video as well.

2012 LR4, 66k miles, VIN falls under the TSB for guides and tensioners.

Dang that sounds nasty as if its about to have a massive engine failure any moment.
What best describes that video sounds like a 20 year old 580 C Case Backhoe with over 18,000 hard hrs on the hr meter.
I bet these are interference engines and should one start to auto-disassemble itself it would end up way beyond repair. Total new engine replacement time.
LR's standard practices i've learned is to patch things (failing engine) up long enough to keep it running until the warranty has expired then the bill is on you. Note every visit complaint as something else. Lemon law?
Hope your under warranty (free parts) with labor hrs bill still on you.
Trust me i've been through this with higher up LR brass requiring an attorney to straighten their asses out hence 3.9 became a 4.6 short block.
Had less trouble dealing with Ferrari and parts with a used POS 308 GTS rebuild project purchase than the LR.
.....~~=o&o>.....

 

[DirtyHal]

I was speaking with a local certified LR shop today and they told me that 7500 miles should be the max you go on an oil change if you want the motor to last on these cars.

They said they had a RR sport in the shop with 100k on it that had been serviced by the dealer it's whole life on the 15k schedule and it had significant sludge deposits throughout the engine that had basically messed up all of the internals. They said they got lucky with their cleaning systems and were able to save the motor but definitely don't recommend the factory oil change intervals.

 

[BeemerNut]

I was speaking with a local certified LR shop today and they told me that 7500 miles should be the max you go on an oil change if you want the motor to last on these cars.

They said they had a RR sport in the shop with 100k on it that had been serviced by the dealer it's whole life on the 15k schedule and it had significant sludge deposits throughout the engine that had basically messed up all of the internals. They said they got lucky with their cleaning systems and were able to save the motor but definitely don't recommend the factory oil change intervals.

Mileage between oil changes has nothing to do with preventing sludge buildup in any engine.
The environment the engine must be operated in like every cold morning at near or below freezing temps plus driven only short distances.
Never allowing the engine to get up to normal operating temperatures and maintaining it for a long enough period to boil off water condensation as well acids created from normal combustion both contaminating the oil.
Quality of oil, those with the most detergents plus a good quality oil filter are plus items extending the engine's life a little bit longer.
Larger capacity filters having larger media surface filtering area than those mini OEM filters manufactures offer plus adding a magnet to the drain plug with a large dounut magnet to the end of the oil filter externally removing powered iron worn away internally, the cylinder bore area, rings, cam surfaces, timing chains. AKA hard particles.
How the driver treats any cold engine like revving it and driving aggressively hard before reaching normal operating temperatures causing unnecessary and accelerated cylinder bore and ring wear causing more and excessive blowby plus ring wear. Accelerated sludge buildup.
Waiting 30-60 seconds after a cold start idling then driving away slowly with light throttle and low rpm's will not help if your only traveling 1-2 miles to work daily times two startups a day your guaranteed to have a sludged up engine doomed to an early death no matter what quality of oil used and how often you changed by mileage.
Every morning the daily dry starts another excessive wear another item needing attention if planning on keeping any vehicle running trouble free for 200K miles. A Pre-Oiler is a must especially with 3.9, 4.0 and 4.6 era engines needed so badly allowing wet starts with oil pressure before the crank ever rotates.
.....~~=o&o>.....

 

[gsxr]

I plan on Changing my oil every 7500mi ...

This is a good idea, or at least it won't hurt to change the oil more often. ESPECIALLY if you are not using the correct / JLR-approved oil spec (click here).

...with Mobil 1...

See link above, read the dozen or two posts after #177 as well, more good info there. Mobil-1 in 5W-20 viscosity should be just fine at 7500mi intervals, but it may not hurt to ask your local dealer how much they want per quart / gallon of the factory oil.

... and seafoam.

This is a not a good idea. Not Seafoam specifically, but ANY additive in the engine oil is bad juju. Oil manufacturers go to great lengths to have a specific additive package, and pouring in a bottle of unknown secret sauce may not play nice with the existing additives. If the engine is having problems of some sort, and you're looking at a $$$$$ repair bill, and you have nothing to lose by trying an additive - fine. But if the engine is running great, the best preventive maintenance is frequent oil changes using an oil which formally meets the factory-recommended specifications.

Click here for a thread with the oil analysis from my first change at 114kmi (10k on dealer oil).

 

[Les_Paul]

Pretty much a copy/paste from my thread about expected injector life and if I should replace them during my Timing Chain job...just incase some of you are not following it and are curious what the chain slop/rattling sounds like, here's a video clip before the full timing chain, guide, and tensioner replacement is done. I should get it back on Friday, so I'll post an after video as well.

2012 LR4, 66k miles, VIN falls under the TSB for guides and tensioners.

Thank you for posting this! I have driven myself crazy wondering if my engine has the timing chain guide problem since finding out about it several months ago. Because of your video I can now confi

 

[Edward2595]

Pretty much a copy/paste from my thread about expected injector life and if I should replace them during my Timing Chain job...just incase some of you are not following it and are curious what the chain slop/rattling sounds like, here's a video clip before the full timing chain, guide, and tensioner replacement is done. I should get it back on Friday, so I'll post an after video as well.

2012 LR4, 66k miles, VIN falls under the TSB for guides and tensioners.

Any updates to your repair job? Also, are you paying this out of pocket or is it warranty repair? If so, what are they charging you?

 

[Saltyfly]

Yes, I got it back last week. It’s been really bad weather (rain, snow & lots of wind), so I haven’t been able to get an ‘after’ video yet. The timing chain noise is 100% gone, only noise is the ‘tap tap tap’ from the brand new injectors (which I had relaxed as well during the timing chain job).

I paid out of pocket (OUCH!).