LR4 5.0 Chain Guides actual problem?
- Thread starter Tubthumper
- Start date
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I was watching a youtube video about a week or so ago that mentioned a similar timing chain guide issue in BMW V8 engines of the mid 00's.
In that video, it was expressed as pretty much concrete knowledge that the wear to the guides occurred because of BMW's recommended lengthy intervals between oil changes, and how a lot of people who are not "car people" will let things go for longer than the recommended service interval. In other words, a "12,000 mile" oil change interval becomes a 16,000 mile interval by the time some people get around to having the oil changed.
Gives me hope that a more frequent oil change interval is the solution for the LR4.
In that video, it was expressed as pretty much concrete knowledge that the wear to the guides occurred because of BMW's recommended lengthy intervals between oil changes, and how a lot of people who are not "car people" will let things go for longer than the recommended service interval. In other words, a "12,000 mile" oil change interval becomes a 16,000 mile interval by the time some people get around to having the oil changed.
Gives me hope that a more frequent oil change interval is the solution for the LR4.
armozo
Well-Known Member
Hi, I just had this job done by a local indi. Here is a pic they send me while doing the repair.
I had them replace the water pump while in there.
All In all it was at 18 hour job they said. They replaced the timing chains in addition to the chain guides and tensioners etc...
I had them replace the water pump while in there.
All In all it was at 18 hour job they said. They replaced the timing chains in addition to the chain guides and tensioners etc...
Huy Tran
Full Access Member
I've been keeping an eye (and ear) out for this problem, but haven't heard any rattling or anything that sounded off.
But while pulling out if the driveway yesterday, I got the red exclamation and "Restricted Performance" message.
Pull the code and got P0016-Crankshaft/Camshaft position correlation. I've reset the code and driven the car a little to see if the code would cycle again but it didn't.
I'm really hoping it's not the timing chain tension.
Going to check all the sensors first.
Then might have to pull off the valve cover to check for slack.
This car is really starting to lose its appeal.
But while pulling out if the driveway yesterday, I got the red exclamation and "Restricted Performance" message.
Pull the code and got P0016-Crankshaft/Camshaft position correlation. I've reset the code and driven the car a little to see if the code would cycle again but it didn't.
I'm really hoping it's not the timing chain tension.
Going to check all the sensors first.
Then might have to pull off the valve cover to check for slack.
This car is really starting to lose its appeal.
armozo
Well-Known Member
What is LR4's your year and mileage?
Huy Tran
Full Access Member
2010 lux w/ 98k miles. It appears to be running fine now. No odd noises at all.
Wish there was a way to check the tensioner without dismantling the covers.
Currently dealing with transmission issues too.
Wish there was a way to check the tensioner without dismantling the covers.
Currently dealing with transmission issues too.
There have been a few more youtube videos concerning the timing chain issue that have popped online in the last 3 to 4 months.
There's a series here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfdm97PbaUJAo8Q_Wd3ErcA
The uploader there (who may post on this forum?) did the job himself and just gives video updates along the way. It's interesting to note that, although he heard a knocking sound before the job, he didn't notice any discernible difference between his old chain and new chain, and it didn't seem like his old chain had worn or stretched at all. In the last post in his series, he opines that he only really needed to change the guides and the tensioners, but to do that you have to remove the front timing chain cover, and to remove the timing chain cover you have to remove the heads. Once you do that, the chain is right there and you might as well change it, too.
Removal of the heads appears to be the biggest PITA of the job, as it also requires removing the injectors, fuel rails, and a bunch of other stuff.
However, one commenter in the last video stated that it's possible to remove the timing chain cover by slightly flexing the valve covers (and not removing them). Which is something this RR owner did:
So, in light of all that, would it be possible to just replace the guides and tensioners as preventative maintenance, thus eliminating a bunch of painful steps? One key issue is to make sure the timing chain doesn't skip any teeth, but, so long as you can do that, the job looks a hell of a lot easier.
There's a series here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfdm97PbaUJAo8Q_Wd3ErcA
The uploader there (who may post on this forum?) did the job himself and just gives video updates along the way. It's interesting to note that, although he heard a knocking sound before the job, he didn't notice any discernible difference between his old chain and new chain, and it didn't seem like his old chain had worn or stretched at all. In the last post in his series, he opines that he only really needed to change the guides and the tensioners, but to do that you have to remove the front timing chain cover, and to remove the timing chain cover you have to remove the heads. Once you do that, the chain is right there and you might as well change it, too.
Removal of the heads appears to be the biggest PITA of the job, as it also requires removing the injectors, fuel rails, and a bunch of other stuff.
However, one commenter in the last video stated that it's possible to remove the timing chain cover by slightly flexing the valve covers (and not removing them). Which is something this RR owner did:
So, in light of all that, would it be possible to just replace the guides and tensioners as preventative maintenance, thus eliminating a bunch of painful steps? One key issue is to make sure the timing chain doesn't skip any teeth, but, so long as you can do that, the job looks a hell of a lot easier.
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RyanJL, your logic seems sound- in both the videos I watched:
1. The chain showed no damage or significant wear
2. The tensioners showed significant wear- to the point of malfunction
Using these videos and Occam's Razor highlights the culprit (tensioners) and dismisses the innocent suspect (chain). The question is how much time does that save; is this now a 10-12 hour job?
Funny that this thread woke back up right now, I'm in an F-Pace for a week- LR4's in for tensioners.. The dealer choked my warranty company hard enough to make them concede..
Ryan, did you mention you had chain noise last winter?
Mike
1. The chain showed no damage or significant wear
2. The tensioners showed significant wear- to the point of malfunction
Using these videos and Occam's Razor highlights the culprit (tensioners) and dismisses the innocent suspect (chain). The question is how much time does that save; is this now a 10-12 hour job?
Funny that this thread woke back up right now, I'm in an F-Pace for a week- LR4's in for tensioners.. The dealer choked my warranty company hard enough to make them concede..
Ryan, did you mention you had chain noise last winter?
Mike
I thought I had the noise; dealer thought otherwise.
What symptoms did you have and what did you do to convince the dealer to do the job?
Mine's been fairly quiet this summer, but it was the cold starts in the winter when I thought mine would sound a little off.
