mbw
Full Access Member
I still haven't done mine, but I went and inspected it quick. (i have the parts)... What is the white plastic cap thing that comes on the tube? Just packaging?
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Apparently there is an conversion kit also that is made by an OEM supplier. http://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da2142g/
Britpart said roverparts.com can supply the kit but its not listed on their site but are in route from the U.K. Per Roverparts. I reserved mine. 120$
I recommend taking the shift cable off (the top nut). I didn't jack up the drive line. maybe I should have to get some more room.
-Used a MityVac to fill the fluid (about 4.5L not sure why they provide 7L)
I've had the MityVac and use it primarily for oil changes in my cars. Makes oil changes a breeze as you don't have to get underneath the car or remove skid plates.Why this sort of pricey $90 vac vs what was used in the video looking incredibly simple and possible easier to get into tight spots? I like whatever is best though so it's not about price but wonder why the shop uses what looks like very basic pump
Depends on your budget, what you consider "easier", and if you have more than one vehicle that requires pumping ATF in from the bottom. I also have a 2008 Mercedes with 722.9 seven-speed that requires pumping ATF, so I shelled out for this from Extoil:Why this sort of pricey $90 vac vs what was used in the video looking incredibly simple and possible easier to get into tight spots? I like whatever is best though so it's not about price but wonder why the shop uses what looks like very basic pump
Correct, the 9.9L spec is to fill a new / rebuilt / dry transmission. After draining / removing the pan, most of the remaining fluid is in the torque converter, which is why a converter drain plug is so nice... it lets you drain almost all the fluid. I always thought it was ridiculous to only change half the ATF, I mean you don't change half the engine oil, right? (I know, I know, apples/oranges.)That total capacity is for a brand new transmission. Some of that fluid won't drain out, especially the fluid in the torque converter.
Some indy shops will have transmission flush machines which generally connect to the cooler pipes/hoses. The idea is to pump in fresh fluid while allowing the old fluid to exit, and also usually cycling more fluid through than rated capacity, since old+new fluid will mix internally with the engine running. If possible with the LR4 (I'm not sure if it is), this might be a good idea after changing the filter.There are some methods to flush it but I didn't attempt it.