LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

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mbw

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I still haven't done mine, but I went and inspected it quick. (i have the parts)... What is the white plastic cap thing that comes on the tube? Just packaging?
 

Pfunk951

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Yep, just packaging.. It looks strange enough to beg the question!

Mike
 

jwest

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I recommend taking the shift cable off (the top nut). I didn't jack up the drive line. maybe I should have to get some more room.

I was replacing mine and the nut was rusted .... the threaded shaft going into the case .... sheared right off. Now I get to not only do the trans fluid upgrade job but also probably have to remove the valve body to access the part I broke :/
 
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jwest

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-Used a MityVac to fill the fluid (about 4.5L not sure why they provide 7L)

Why this sort of pricey $90 vac vs what was used in the video looking incredibly simple and possible easier to get into tight spots? I like whatever is best though so it's not about price but wonder why the shop uses what looks like very basic pump
 

Huy Tran

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Why this sort of pricey $90 vac vs what was used in the video looking incredibly simple and possible easier to get into tight spots? I like whatever is best though so it's not about price but wonder why the shop uses what looks like very basic pump
I've had the MityVac and use it primarily for oil changes in my cars. Makes oil changes a breeze as you don't have to get underneath the car or remove skid plates.
It has precise markings for measuring liquids and has a long hose for easy reach. That made it a better tool for doing the transmission fluid. Down side is that it does require thorough cleaning for use with different fluids.
I used dedicated hand pump units that screws onto the bottles for the differentials and transfer case. No cleaning required and less contamination.
 

Pfunk951

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gsxr

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Why this sort of pricey $90 vac vs what was used in the video looking incredibly simple and possible easier to get into tight spots? I like whatever is best though so it's not about price but wonder why the shop uses what looks like very basic pump
Depends on your budget, what you consider "easier", and if you have more than one vehicle that requires pumping ATF in from the bottom. I also have a 2008 Mercedes with 722.9 seven-speed that requires pumping ATF, so I shelled out for this from Extoil:

https://www.extoil.us/products/6-liter-professional-transmission-fluid-pump

With a 10% off coupon for new customers, and free shipping, it was $113 delivered. And, it includes a number of fill adapters for various vehicles. If you only use it for ATF, no need to clean out after each use. One of the included adapters fits perfectly into the drain plug hole in the metal pan, assuming there is space directly below for the adapter pipe. I have not yet done the ATF change on the LR4 but I hope to do that sometime this year, now that I've gotten some practice on the 'Benz!

Side note - it appears there is NO drain plug on the converter for the ZF 6HP28 transmission? Total capacity is 9.9 liters of fluid per the LR4 factory manual, but most people are reporting draining and re-filling 5 liters/quarts or less? Seems to me it may require a couple more fluid changes after dropping the pan to replace the filter, if you want more than 50% new fluid in there. After a second time changing there should be ~75% new fluid, third time would be ~87% if my maths are correct. (MB has drain plugs on the converter so you can get >90% of the old fluid out the first time.)

:rolleyes:
 

Huy Tran

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My metal replacement pan has a drain plug.
That total capacity is for a brand new transmission. Some of that fluid won't drain out, especially the fluid in the torque converter. There are some methods to flush it but I didn't attempt it.
The mechatonic unit seams easy enough to remove but is very delicate and very costly. It does need to be removed to replace the body seals and bridge.
 

gsxr

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That total capacity is for a brand new transmission. Some of that fluid won't drain out, especially the fluid in the torque converter.
Correct, the 9.9L spec is to fill a new / rebuilt / dry transmission. After draining / removing the pan, most of the remaining fluid is in the torque converter, which is why a converter drain plug is so nice... it lets you drain almost all the fluid. I always thought it was ridiculous to only change half the ATF, I mean you don't change half the engine oil, right? (I know, I know, apples/oranges.)


There are some methods to flush it but I didn't attempt it.
Some indy shops will have transmission flush machines which generally connect to the cooler pipes/hoses. The idea is to pump in fresh fluid while allowing the old fluid to exit, and also usually cycling more fluid through than rated capacity, since old+new fluid will mix internally with the engine running. If possible with the LR4 (I'm not sure if it is), this might be a good idea after changing the filter.

Related anecdote: For a few years, Mercedes deleted the converter drain plug on their five-speed 722.6 electronic trans, and specified a complicated flush procedure. The process connected to the cooler piping and you flushed 3 liters at a time, until 14 total liters (!!)had been flushed through... and the transmission capacity was only ±9.0L for a dry fill (similar to the LR4 ZF box). I'm really surprised JLR / ZF did not specify a similar procedure. Thankfully MB brought back the converter drain, I suspect in part due to complaints about the wasteful and time-consuming flush procedure, and also due to warranty issues with failed transmissions that never had the proper flush procedure performed. I mean seriously, how much can it cost to add a drain plug to a torque converter?

:musicus:
 

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