Steve T
Active Member
A real set of sliders that protect the compressor such as the TR ones would probably be next.
Where can you get these? I am looking for sliders tats do that and have come up empty...
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A real set of sliders that protect the compressor such as the TR ones would probably be next.
Where can you get these? I am looking for sliders tats do that and have come up empty...
Weight is weight, especially when it's rotational weight. I will admit, the D3/4 being as heavy as it it, it may not be as big of a factor as on lighter vehicles. I came from performance street driving where you do literally feel that extra pound on the axle (two or three pounds is more realistic for most spacers). I probably should have stressed the quality of the spacer more than the weight for these heavy trucks, but I still can't in good conscience recommend a spacer. It's a crappy mod that is only done out of not spending the money to do it properly (new wheels). And all that said, you make a very valid point on the E rated tires. Those certainly make the biggest difference, but why add to the issue?An aluminum spacer doesn't weigh much more than a pound. I don't buy your weight argument at all, especially when that weight is confined to the center of the rotating mass. There's far more than a pound difference between the stock tires and the E-rated tires, and there's more than a pound difference between different brands of E-rated tires. Yet the wheel spacer is the trigger?
Sorry, but you'll never convince me that any traction control is better than an actual, full on locker in all off road situations. That line of thinking is the same line that had Land Rover build the D2 in the early 00's without a center diff lock, thinking the traction control was equal or better. That decision was a colossal fail.
I JUST bought my first Landy. It is a 2012 LR4 HSE. Does not have the read differential lock.
A friend suggested i spend my money like this, in this order:
1- Rock Sliders ($350)
2- Tires: Atturo Trail Blade - 19” set of 5 for ($700)
3- Maxtrax ($300)
4- Bumpers Tactical front ($1720) and rear ($?) Lucky8's
5- IID tool from GAP Diagnostics ($550)
6- Dometic CFX40 fridge ($500) + 2nd battery ($100)
7- Rear Differential Lock ($1500)
I would suggest the original advise you got it not accurate. Sliders and tires, sure. The rest, wait until you can see what your stock LR2 can do, which is a lot. And you can get that in TX from the best one there, Joey Pitts at his 4WD Training School. Brilliant trainer, certified, and a LR enthusiast.
The best modification you can do is the "nut behind the wheel", and you will be very impressed with a stock capability of the LR4.
https://www.pitts4x4co.com/