Need Some Quick Info On Valve Block Replacement

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avslash

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One time push fittings, at in there's no way of taking it apart for the next time, like the push fittings on the dehydrator cover?

One time as in you can push to connect the air line only when making the initial connection.

You can absolutely remove them by putting a 12mm wrench on the brass fittings and removing the brass fitting from the valve block. At that point, the ferrule and fitting is on the air line and to reconnect you would be reattaching the brass fitting to the valve block with your 12mm wrench.
 

ryanjl

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I forget. Do you have to deflate the entire air system to do the center valve block, or do the front and rear valve blocks hold the air in the lines?
 

avslash

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Do you still have the cover around the compressor? Mine was noisy when I broke the mounting bracket and bent the compressor mounting tabs so that the rubber isolators were no longer isolating, but with a fresh bracket is now quiet again.

I forget. Do you have to deflate the entire air system to do the center valve block, or do the front and rear valve blocks hold the air in the lines?

I can probably tell you later tonight. I did the rear valve block first.

If memory serves, the front and rear blocks will keep the suspension inflated when changing the compressor/compressor block, but it has been a while.
 

ftillier

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I just did the compressor removal and can confirm that removing just the compressor does not cause any pressure loss in the rest of the system. I don't know if that holds for the center valve block though as I haven't removed that (yet.)
 

avslash

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Did mine today. Had center valve block and compressor removed at same time. Rover did not change height.
 

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