Normal Ride Height Only - Cant Figure it out

[BarryM21]

I have a 2012 LR4 and here are some of the facts.

Fault says Normal Height Available only (GAP IID Tool)

- Fault Code is C1A34-01 (AF) Rear Right Corner Valve - General Failure Information - General Electrical Failure

I occasionally get an

C1A36-01 (2E) Exhaust Valve - General electrical Failure. Not sure if these are related.


Car wont go up or down, or at least it starts and immediately gives the fault message.
Things to note:
I'm running an Arnott Compressor
I've replaced the rear right valve block (didn't fix the problem)

Here's another factor. I've tried a valve test through GAP IID on each of the four corners of the car and the rear right does not go up or down. the other 3 wheels have pretty full range of motion when initiated through the tool, which leads me to believe theres something off with the rear right suspension. The rear right is happy to sit at normal height but that's pretty much it unless I deflate the reservoir, in which case it will go down. I've done a cursory glance at the wiring and everything seems to be as it should be.

Cant quite seem to figure this one out. Maybe the Arnott compressor isnt a good fit. Not sure...

Any thoughts or experience shares are appreciated.

 

[ryanjl]

Not to pick nits, but just want to make sure we know what's been done. There is no right rear valve block. There is a rear valve block, and it is above the driver's side rear wheel. Is that what you meant?

Have you cleared the codes? is the C1A34 the one that comes back first or is it the other one?

 

[ftillier]

When you say you replaced the right rear valve block, do you mean the height sensor?

The right rear corner valve is in the rear valve block, which as @ryanjl said is in the left rear wheel well. If I were a betting man, I'd bet you the valve block has some desiccant powder from your old Hitachi compressor keeping the solenoids from moving freely. You might want to pull the rear valve block, disassemble it, and clean it of any desiccant powder that might have contaminated it. From what I've learned, the hardest part is getting the thing out and onto the workbench.

 

[BarryM21]

Yes sorry. I meant that I’ve replaced the rear valve block with a new unit. I’m wondering now whether to revisit the connector to the valve block. I read somewhere that can be the cause of the electrical fault as they deteriorate.

 

[ftillier]

Checking the wiring if the symptoms didn't improve when you replaced the valve block seems like a good step. Looking at the wiring diagram I have on hand (for a 2011), Pin 1, black/purple wire, is the positive for the right rear valve. Pin 2, black/orange, is the negative for the right rear valve. I'd use the IID tool to activate the circuit and see what you measure with a multimeter. Use pin 3, black/yellow, positive for left rear valve, and pin 6, black green, negative for the left rear valve, as reference for behavior.

 

[BarryM21]

Great. Appreciate the feedback. Do you know roughly what should the multimeter read on the wire during activation?

Going to give it a go later today.

 

[ftillier]

No idea, that's why looking at the left rear valve, the one that works, would give you a good reference.

 

[BarryM21]

Got it. Makes sense. Thanks for the input, will keep you posted on my findings.

 

[djkaosone]

I would look at the 4x4 info screen to see if any of the height sensors are blinking red, that's an early indicator to view a bad or out-of-range height sensor. Do you have a Gap IID Tool or Autel AP200? If you do, try to recalibrate your suspension on flat ground, as leveled as possible. This will sometimes fix slightly off calibrated sensors that triggers this warning.

 

[BarryM21]

So I ran a live test on the height sensors and this is what I got. So looks like it’s the height sensor. I ordered a new one. Upon inspection it looks a little knackered. Hopefully that will solve it! Also hopefully not a wiring issue