OVERHEATING

rovermom72

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Hi I have a 2012 Land rover hse 5.0 ( non super charger ) with overheating issues. We have changed the T-stat - coolant sensor - even took out coolant resv & cleaned it all new coolant & it still keeps over heating. This rover has been a nightmare so far we have replaced driver side air bag - spark plugs - t stat - coolant sensor all since dec. Help
 

ftillier

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I would check your coolant crossover pipes, there's one at the front, one at the rear of the engine, another somewhat spendy repair, and a common failure point with these engines.
 

mmbirtcher

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Bad fan? Water pump changed? Was coolant system correctly refilled after thermostat? Any indication of coolant leaks? Not sure how many miles, but at 105k all the hoses should be changed Including the front crossover for sure. Possible blockage in radiator? All OEM or high quality parts. A good British specialist should be able to diagnose without just throwing parts at it. Dealers are hit or miss with a few being very good and some, well, not so much. this will likely turn out to be something not as bad as it seems unless driven while overheated.

post in the forum looking for good shops in your town.

spark plugs and thermostat should be considered normal maintenance on any vehicle depending on mileage.

good luck!
 

djkaosone

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You have air pockets in your cooling system. You'll need to use the bleed screw next to the battery to get the air out and burp the system. I find a coolant vacuum tool is the best and easiest way to do this. I have this kit and it's great.

 

Thomas Wember

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Without more info… I would lean towards the air in the system answers. Changed my thermostat last year and could not get the system bled properly by using the bleed ports/screws. Constant overheating. After hooking the reservoir to a vacuum and letting it pull the air out… problem solved for good!
 

jlglr4

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@rovermom72 It would be helpful to have a little more background on the situation. What, specifically, are the overheating issues? The gauge showing too high, coolant boiling, restricted performance or other drivability issues? Any misfires? Did the car overheat badly in the first instance (e.g., total coolant lost due to rupture)? Are you losing coolant?

One thing to note is that there are two coolant temp sensors on this car (at least on later models - I assume it was the same for 2012). The front temp sensor is located below the T-stat and the other is in the heater manifold (also known as the “rear coolant crossover”). Not sure if you changed both or only one.
 

avslash

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How many miles?

Cooling issues tend to boil down (pun intended) to water pump, T-state, front crossover, heater manifold (rear crossover) or bleeding.

These trucks can be a brute to get a good a good bleed if they have rear hvac. Their is a specified procedure in the manual that involves time at specific rpms to get it done.
 

f1racer328

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These trucks can be a brute to get a good a good bleed if they have rear hvac. Their is a specified procedure in the manual that involves time at specific rpms to get it done.
Vacuum bleeding is the way. I replaced my radiator, bled it with a vacuum bleeder kit from Amazon, and haven't had any issues since. Didn't even crack a bleeder screw.
 

txfromwi

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Agreed, probably air in the system.
I vacuum fill - the last time I did the 2013 it took a second go-round to get all the air out, but I have never needed to use the bleeders.

The manual for the 2013 (5.0L, V8) says this when performing a vacuum fill:
After you have completed the fill.
Set heater to max temp and fan on high
Run at idle until hot air at heater (I needed to bump RMP a bit to get this to work)
Then 2000rpm for 8 minutes.
Cool to totally cold and top up as needed.

I add: if the level is too low and the top up is excessive (i.e. the reservoir goes dry), vacuum again and repeat fill and burp procedure.

If needed I can pull the instructions for the fill procedure that fills at the bleeder points.
 
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