Tapps33
Full Access Member
Well, I’m sure there are those out there that have already battled this issue, but it took me a while to finally find it!
Long story even longer, I’ve been chasing the P0171 and shortly thereafter the P0174 error codes off and on for about 2 years. (Yes, I know that’s a long time, but I had a lot going on and couldn’t really focus on it). Anyway, shortly after my local LR dealership swapped my water pump and crossover, I noticed the truck idling really rough. It sounded just like a vacuum leak...which it was...but I couldn’t find it. I thought I had it when I found a broken breather tube on the passenger side of the engine....Compliments of the LR dealership. But no...the idle was still rough and the Check engine light came back on.
Recently I found several fun videos on YouTube about how to make a DIY smoke checker. Needless to say, I followed the directions and roughly a day to get parts and $40 later the smoke led me to the leak....the PCV valves! 2 years of chasing and it was actually extremely simple to find! (Seriously, just google diy smoke checker)
Now, I have to tell on myself as I’m about to highlight my LR ignorance. As someone who’s worked on engines for pretty much my entire life, PCV valves have always been directly under the breather hoses in each cylinder bank.....until this engine. As you can see in the pic, the PCV valves are actually both co-located in the right hand side (bank 1) valve cover. Like I said, highlighting my ignorance. I can honestly say, if you would have told me the PCV’s for both banks were collocated on one side of the engine, I would have called you a liar!
$90 later, my 2 rebuild kits from Atlantic British arrived...10 minutes to swap, and then 5 mins to reset all the power train adaptations and fault codes and Voila!!! My baby purrs like a kitten again!!!
The hardest part was getting the old “caps” off the top. As would be expected, the little plastic “tangs” all the way around broke off as soon as you apply a little pressure. Thankfully, new caps come in the kits, so break away! Just be careful not to damage the valve cover side and you’re good to go! I actually used a right angle flat head screw driver to get the caps off. When the caps come off, pull the rubber diaphragm and spring out, clean the mating surface...I used baby wipes, then install your new parts.
A couple of things to consider. As you can see from the pic, one of the diaphragms was completely destroyed. The other one, (not pictured) looked to be just fine. Oddly enough though, the diaphragm that looked the healthiest actually leaked the most smoke. The moral of the story, don’t trust it, even if it looks healthy! The smoke never lies!!
All in all, it was an extremely easy repair, and one I wish I had found sooner!! Good luck!
Hopefully this will help someone in the future!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Long story even longer, I’ve been chasing the P0171 and shortly thereafter the P0174 error codes off and on for about 2 years. (Yes, I know that’s a long time, but I had a lot going on and couldn’t really focus on it). Anyway, shortly after my local LR dealership swapped my water pump and crossover, I noticed the truck idling really rough. It sounded just like a vacuum leak...which it was...but I couldn’t find it. I thought I had it when I found a broken breather tube on the passenger side of the engine....Compliments of the LR dealership. But no...the idle was still rough and the Check engine light came back on.
Recently I found several fun videos on YouTube about how to make a DIY smoke checker. Needless to say, I followed the directions and roughly a day to get parts and $40 later the smoke led me to the leak....the PCV valves! 2 years of chasing and it was actually extremely simple to find! (Seriously, just google diy smoke checker)
Now, I have to tell on myself as I’m about to highlight my LR ignorance. As someone who’s worked on engines for pretty much my entire life, PCV valves have always been directly under the breather hoses in each cylinder bank.....until this engine. As you can see in the pic, the PCV valves are actually both co-located in the right hand side (bank 1) valve cover. Like I said, highlighting my ignorance. I can honestly say, if you would have told me the PCV’s for both banks were collocated on one side of the engine, I would have called you a liar!
$90 later, my 2 rebuild kits from Atlantic British arrived...10 minutes to swap, and then 5 mins to reset all the power train adaptations and fault codes and Voila!!! My baby purrs like a kitten again!!!
The hardest part was getting the old “caps” off the top. As would be expected, the little plastic “tangs” all the way around broke off as soon as you apply a little pressure. Thankfully, new caps come in the kits, so break away! Just be careful not to damage the valve cover side and you’re good to go! I actually used a right angle flat head screw driver to get the caps off. When the caps come off, pull the rubber diaphragm and spring out, clean the mating surface...I used baby wipes, then install your new parts.
A couple of things to consider. As you can see from the pic, one of the diaphragms was completely destroyed. The other one, (not pictured) looked to be just fine. Oddly enough though, the diaphragm that looked the healthiest actually leaked the most smoke. The moral of the story, don’t trust it, even if it looks healthy! The smoke never lies!!
All in all, it was an extremely easy repair, and one I wish I had found sooner!! Good luck!
Hopefully this will help someone in the future!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
