2016 LR4 Landmark SCV6 Engine Failure at 65k. WWYD?

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teleskier

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I have some unfortunate news to report to the community and wanted to see what others might do. Basically, I had an unknown oil-burning situation in the engine which led to a total engine failure at 65k miles.

For backgorund I am very diligent with car care and have tons of wrenching experience, so dont consider myself a knuckle-head. I've rebuilt engines and restore cars as a hobby. Because of the complexity of the LR4 and a new dealer purchase, I did all scheduled factory service at the dealer under warranty and then switched over to 5-7k mile oil changes (instead of factory 10k interval) at about 40k miles/5 years. In the past, I had some issues with valve covers leaking, some coolant smell which led to fixed crossover and thermostat, all injectors changed before 50k. This was all fixed at the dealer. This time around, my first symptom was a valve type noise under acceleration up hills - sounded like a diesel engine, but would resolve immediately after acceleration. Then it worsened and continued as a very faintly click at idle. After a few calls, all fingers pointed at timing chain. I changed the oil just to be sure before the expensive job and found it was 4 quarts down (out of 8.5). This was at about 5-6k miles from prior change. No lights, no indicators, no blue smoke to my knowledge.. nothing. I changed the PCV valve. I should confess I'd not been religious about checking my oil on the electronic gauge. Anyways, I changed the oil and it made no difference in regards to the noise. On the 5 mile trip to the shop for timing chain, the engine made a horrible grinding sound and shut down before I could get to side of road. Towed ti to the shop. they took off the top end to find the timing chains just fine, but a ton of metal in the oil filter. Therefore, likely a blown engine due to crank bearings, con rod or something else major.

The quoted price all in for a rebuilt engine from this respected shop installed is $24k. $12k for the part, $7k for labor + some odds and ends and tax. Its a body off job.

The truck was a well maintained Texas Landmark with HD package. Best I can tell is that the going price for these is $28-30k, so we're entering the Beyond Economical Repair (BER) zone.

I feel I could do the following:

1. Repair engine
2. Sell to bone-yard for $1100
3. Part out the expensive parts on the for-sale sections
4. Sell as-is to an enthusiast who can use the parts

Just curious what others might do in this situation.
 

LB Bill

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Oof!!! Sorry! Seems like a rare occurrence...if not unprecedented. I am very (selfishly) interested to hear the results of the 'autopsy'.
That said, and just spitballing, if it's still in great shape in all other respects (seems like you've indicated that), you still really like it, and it must be paid for?, I guess the question is what would you do (buy/spend) if you didn't fix it? Of course for $24K you'd have to be happy continuing to drive it for quite a while. OTOH, If money isn't an object, go get a new Defender? (too impulsive?)
 

ttforcefed

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wow sorry to hear this. i recently thought i might be in this situation on my 2013 with 162k miles. my plan was to get a rebuilt motor from roverland and bite the bullet for $12k plus labor. my calculus - the rational way forward is sell whatever you can and put that money towards a cx9 etc. The enthusiast in me loves the LR4 and cant imagine living without it so i was ready to pay $20k to keep it alive as opposed to losing $20k in depreciation on a new car.

just out of curiosity do you know if the vacuum pump failed?
 

ttforcefed

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also if you have little kids there isnt a better SUV as far as seat functionality....being able to put the middle seat down is huge when you are using the 3rd row 100% of the time...
 

Rover Range

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Since you have a relationship with the dealer.
Have them contact Land Rover about a Goodwill repair. If covered, you'll be responsible for part of the repair.
 

ktm525

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Check your oil weekly? If you are very **** it is quite possible to make your own dipstick and use the suction tube. Again what is weird is huge oil loss with no warning from the idiot gauges.

I would cry too.
 

ttforcefed

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Check your oil weekly? If you are very **** it is quite possible to make your own dipstick and use the suction tube. Again what is weird is huge oil loss with no warning from the idiot gauges.

I would cry too.
same thing happened to me with te PVC valve and vacuum pump being culprits. had 5 qrtz missing and no indication from the dash. truly nuts.
 

ktm525

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same thing happened to me with te PVC valve and vacuum pump being culprits. had 5 qrtz missing and no indication from the dash. truly nuts.

Yes unacceptable. I think I will go make that dipstick now lol.
 

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