scapistron
Full Access Member
Stainless m8 with a nylock nut should be fine. Allow you to get it just barely snug without rattling itself apart.
Project Dark Knight Rising
- Thread starter Tapps33
- Start date
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txfromwi
Full Access Member
For parts have you tried Land Rover Classics? store.landrover.com
They are the only place I can now find Rover brand seat covers.
I also have great service from Palm Beach Rover online parts, they seem to be able to find pretty much everything.
They are the only place I can now find Rover brand seat covers.
I also have great service from Palm Beach Rover online parts, they seem to be able to find pretty much everything.
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Tapps33
Full Access Member
I checked Palm Beach and they show “discontinued” on their site.
However, the other site, I don’t know that I’ve even been there! Hard to think of these things as “classics!” Lol!
Thanks for the info!
However, the other site, I don’t know that I’ve even been there! Hard to think of these things as “classics!” Lol!
Thanks for the info!
txfromwi
Full Access Member
If you call Palm Beach they can search for it anywhere in the country and if it exists anywhere they can get it to you...
itsaguything
Full Access Member
i was thinking, have a look at the jaguarforums.com site. Especially the x150 forum. Many play with sdd and upload just the engine tuning components of the software… worth a shot.
scapistron
Full Access Member
I saw a FFRR with the SCV8 for what my broken brain thought was a reasonable asking amount. Did you ever consider going in the other direction? Swap in the two speed transfer case into a FFRR and get custom drive shafts.
@Tapps33 Thanks for writing this all out. I have a 2011 LR4 5.0 that I think I’m going to have to replace the timing chains on, and has recently started smoking from the driverside, looks like a gasket . I travel a lot for work and office from home, so it sits in the garage most of the time, but my daughter is about to turn 16 so she will be driving it. It’s nice to be able to jump on and read this thread and see, while it’s a pain in the ass, it’s possible to do.
Tapps33
Full Access Member
Sorry for the delays folks, the holidays kicked my butt, and I didn't get nearly as much time to work on my LR4 as I wanted. But, we survived Thanksgiving and the college kid didn't seem too disgruntled, so I'm calling it a win!
I was able to get the AC system evacuated and charged, 2lbs of synthetic R134a and in theory it'll cool like a champ! (as soon as I get the engine running)
As for the cooling system, it was a huge win and a crushing defeat all at the same time....
Picking up from my last attempt, here's what I came up with as I couldn't find that pin:
Here's the "installed" pic:
Then the SC Intercooler pump all bolted up and connected:
Then finally, all the hoses are connected and good to go!
Thankfully, my dad's old air compressor had enough "oomph" to vacuum down the system, and it sat holding a vacuum for almost 8 hours....no leaks!
So, here's where everything went awry....
I TOTALLY thought I had already bought coolant for it....buuuuuut, I totally didn't have it, or couldn't find it. Soooooo, after vacuuming everything down, I had to remove the tool and order coolant for it. I'm planning on running Xerex G30 as that's what I've been running and it seems to do pretty good. Over to you as to what you want to run, I know everyone has their own opinion, and in truth, they probably all work the same, this is just the brand I've landed on. Unfortunately, while I originally started using it because it was cost effective, and easily obtainable at my local parts store, it appears as though most places aren't carrying it anymore, so I had to order it from Amazon and it didn't arrive until after I had left.
After the realization...and 3 trips to different parts stores came up empty, I gave up and focused on extracting the pump connector from a used RRS SC engine bay wiring harness I have. Thankfully, the connector wiring is pretty simple. The ground runs right to a ground point in the driver's wheel well. The power supply runs right to the CJB and is a missing relay in the LR4 CJB. The "trigger" wires for the relay run directly to the PCM which is nice. Thankfully, power was already there in the CJB, so, no need to try and run a new supply wire. Next time I'm home, I'll splice the wires into my existing CJB and PCM connector. (I'll show some pictures in my next post.).
Thankfully, once the SC pump is hooked up, and once the coolant system is charged, the PCM-Immobilizer fight begins as I should be able to crank it up!
I was able to get the AC system evacuated and charged, 2lbs of synthetic R134a and in theory it'll cool like a champ! (as soon as I get the engine running)
As for the cooling system, it was a huge win and a crushing defeat all at the same time....
Picking up from my last attempt, here's what I came up with as I couldn't find that pin:
Here's the "installed" pic:
Then the SC Intercooler pump all bolted up and connected:
Then finally, all the hoses are connected and good to go!
Thankfully, my dad's old air compressor had enough "oomph" to vacuum down the system, and it sat holding a vacuum for almost 8 hours....no leaks!
So, here's where everything went awry....
I TOTALLY thought I had already bought coolant for it....buuuuuut, I totally didn't have it, or couldn't find it. Soooooo, after vacuuming everything down, I had to remove the tool and order coolant for it. I'm planning on running Xerex G30 as that's what I've been running and it seems to do pretty good. Over to you as to what you want to run, I know everyone has their own opinion, and in truth, they probably all work the same, this is just the brand I've landed on. Unfortunately, while I originally started using it because it was cost effective, and easily obtainable at my local parts store, it appears as though most places aren't carrying it anymore, so I had to order it from Amazon and it didn't arrive until after I had left.
After the realization...and 3 trips to different parts stores came up empty, I gave up and focused on extracting the pump connector from a used RRS SC engine bay wiring harness I have. Thankfully, the connector wiring is pretty simple. The ground runs right to a ground point in the driver's wheel well. The power supply runs right to the CJB and is a missing relay in the LR4 CJB. The "trigger" wires for the relay run directly to the PCM which is nice. Thankfully, power was already there in the CJB, so, no need to try and run a new supply wire. Next time I'm home, I'll splice the wires into my existing CJB and PCM connector. (I'll show some pictures in my next post.).
Thankfully, once the SC pump is hooked up, and once the coolant system is charged, the PCM-Immobilizer fight begins as I should be able to crank it up!
Tapps33
Full Access Member
Yeah, I'm not going to lie, our son inherited....ok, stole our 2010 LR4 when he started driving. That said, you just can't beat how safe and sturdy these things are. Given how crazy other drivers are, and how new drivers can make mistakes, we figured putting him in the safest car we owned was the best option...even if it did take my wife's baby away!
As for the smoking, head gasket issue, it's confession time. This particular 2012 had the exact same problem. I pulled the cylinder heads, had them machined, installed new valves and sanded the block flat, then put everything back together and couldn't pull a vacuum on the cooling system. My automatic diagnosis was the block was cracked....it was not. Or, I no longer think so. When I pulled the engine out of the frame and was able to get it sitting on some blocks, I discovered that when I put the heads on, the stupid exhaust manifold gasket had actually tucked under and become pinched between the head and block. because it was directly above the engine mount and below the exhaust manifold, I couldn't see it. To say I was not only embarrassed, but disappointed in myself would be an understatement. I totally could have had this thing up and running as a regular NA truck literally years ago. Buuuuuuut, I didn't see it, and now we've gone WAY too far to go back. Once way or another, we're going to make this work!!
The whole moral of the above story is that swapping the heads out is pretty easy if you're already planning on doing the chains. the only additional step is to remove the camshafts and then remove the heads...everything else is pretty much off. (oh yeah, don't forget the rear crossover...but I'd replace it anyway if you're in there doing the chains).
Tapps33
Full Access Member
Sorry for all the delays guys, but I've finally had a free moment to get back to NJ to work on the car.
Here's the "bads;"
- I had forgotten about the fact that the SC engine has a standard threaded cooling fan. After about 20 minutes of trying to swing the NA fan on counter clockwise I realized my mistake. (ok, maybe it was only like 2 minutes, but it felt like 20!). Anyway, I ordered a used fan from eBay...just couldn't stomach the $600 price tag for a new one. It's due in later this week. I'm not sure whether it'll arrive before I head back south or not. Worst case, there's always the next trip up here.
-I realized I bricked the engine computer I installed for the SC engine, so I ordered another used one....also off of ebay. (SMH)
Here's the "goods;"
-I got the cooling system all filled up and ready to go.
-I was able to run the wires for the SC intercooler pump. This included adding the grounding wire to the PCM connector as well as the relay into the CJB under the hood. Thankfully, the main power supply was already in the CJB, so all I had to do was run the power wire from the pump to the other side the the relay, add the ground trigger from the relay to the PCM, add the the power supply for the trigger wire by soldering it to the correct wire in the harness, and finally, attache the ground to the grounding point. FYI, I have a complete used RRS SC engine bay harness, and my original plan was to swap the whole harness out, but a lot of the connectors had some corrosion on them, and I changed plans and simply ran the new wires for the intercooler pump. I took a few pics to show how to disassemble/assemble the PMC connector, the ground points etc...
Here's the back of the connector, as you can see, there's a little brown plastic "cover pin" in place to protect the connector. I used a tiny screw driver and popped it right out.
I almost forgot, before you can pull the brown pin out, you need to slide the red retaining clip out of the connector:
Here's a pic of the retainer in place:
Once the retainer is out and the pin has been removed, you just slide the wire from the other harness in. It should only go in in one way. Make sure it clicks in and you can't pull it back out. Then reinstall the red plastic retainer.
Once the wires are in, you can put the back cover on. The hardest part here is getting the "connector locking sliders" on either side of the connector lined up. Once they're in the right position, which I verified by looking at it to make sure the gaps lined up, you simply hook the one side and rotate down to click the front in.
That covers the PCM. The CJB, is fairly self explanatory, there's a 8mm bolt holding the front, then it just lifts up. the 2 halves are held together by plastic snap clips. Undo the front and the back will slide out. I cut the 2 wire ties holding the wires in place as they went into the CJB just so I could maneuver the box a little better. FYI, it doesn't move much, but you need to be able to flip it to see where to insert your wires.
I'll post a couple more pics in another post....stupid 5 pic forum limit!
Here's the "bads;"
- I had forgotten about the fact that the SC engine has a standard threaded cooling fan. After about 20 minutes of trying to swing the NA fan on counter clockwise I realized my mistake. (ok, maybe it was only like 2 minutes, but it felt like 20!). Anyway, I ordered a used fan from eBay...just couldn't stomach the $600 price tag for a new one. It's due in later this week. I'm not sure whether it'll arrive before I head back south or not. Worst case, there's always the next trip up here.
-I realized I bricked the engine computer I installed for the SC engine, so I ordered another used one....also off of ebay. (SMH)
Here's the "goods;"
-I got the cooling system all filled up and ready to go.
-I was able to run the wires for the SC intercooler pump. This included adding the grounding wire to the PCM connector as well as the relay into the CJB under the hood. Thankfully, the main power supply was already in the CJB, so all I had to do was run the power wire from the pump to the other side the the relay, add the ground trigger from the relay to the PCM, add the the power supply for the trigger wire by soldering it to the correct wire in the harness, and finally, attache the ground to the grounding point. FYI, I have a complete used RRS SC engine bay harness, and my original plan was to swap the whole harness out, but a lot of the connectors had some corrosion on them, and I changed plans and simply ran the new wires for the intercooler pump. I took a few pics to show how to disassemble/assemble the PMC connector, the ground points etc...
Here's the back of the connector, as you can see, there's a little brown plastic "cover pin" in place to protect the connector. I used a tiny screw driver and popped it right out.
I almost forgot, before you can pull the brown pin out, you need to slide the red retaining clip out of the connector:
Here's a pic of the retainer in place:
Once the retainer is out and the pin has been removed, you just slide the wire from the other harness in. It should only go in in one way. Make sure it clicks in and you can't pull it back out. Then reinstall the red plastic retainer.
Once the wires are in, you can put the back cover on. The hardest part here is getting the "connector locking sliders" on either side of the connector lined up. Once they're in the right position, which I verified by looking at it to make sure the gaps lined up, you simply hook the one side and rotate down to click the front in.
That covers the PCM. The CJB, is fairly self explanatory, there's a 8mm bolt holding the front, then it just lifts up. the 2 halves are held together by plastic snap clips. Undo the front and the back will slide out. I cut the 2 wire ties holding the wires in place as they went into the CJB just so I could maneuver the box a little better. FYI, it doesn't move much, but you need to be able to flip it to see where to insert your wires.
I'll post a couple more pics in another post....stupid 5 pic forum limit!
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