sbojangles
Member
If you're replacing the actuator, does it make sense to get the entire AB kit instead of just the actuator? Tailgate Latch For LR3 And LR4 - Replacement Kit (roverparts.com)
Rear hatch still stuck!!
- Thread starter jlach993
- Start date
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jlglr4
Full Access Member
If you’re not having trouble with the latch (and most people don’t), just replace the actuator. It’s only like $60-75, at least at my local dealer. I think this is what I bought - looks like same part that comes in the AB kit, but cheaper even than AB’s price: https://parts.landroveroflivermore.com/oem-parts/land-rover-lock-actuator-fug500010
sbojangles
Member
Nice thanks for sending this over, even my dealer can't match that price. Definitely the best deal I've seen for that part! Is re-using the moisture seal difficult after install though?
cperez
Full Access Member
Agreed with @jlglr4 about only replacing the actuator. I bought the entire kit from AB and decided that even though I had everything opened up, there was no need to reinstall and need to readjust a new upper latch that was working fine. They accepted the latch back with no problem. I'm pretty sure someone posted a link to the actuator on ebay that was around $30. I paid a lot more because I didn't feel like spending time matching parts and because AB has treated me well in the past.
Treat yourself to a fresh moisture seal (or "water shedder" as they call it). Removing and cleaning up the residue from the original one is one of the most tedious parts of the entire job. You could probably reuse it but you would not get the consistent seal you want. It will look nice and tidy if you use a fresh one. I think they are around $20 give or take.
Final tip, remove the black plastic cover on the new actuator (if it comes with one) before installing it. You will know what I mean when you see it. Otherwise, if you do ever have to dig into the back panel from the cargo area, it will be very tough to get to the part of the cable you need to tug on to release the lower hatch. I don't think that black plastic cover was on early versions of the actuator. Maybe they added it to make the thing more robust but I'd take my chances without it.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
Nice tips, and agree with getting a new moisture seal if you want to keep things tidy. I replaced mine on an emergency basis - it failed when packing the car for a trip - so i didn’t replace the water seal. It tore some when I removed it, and I put it back together with some tape intending to go back in and fix it up, but completely forgot. So, thanks for the reminder.
jlach993
Full Access Member
I had lots of dynamat left over when i did the door speakers on my LR4. I just put that all over the entire lower hatch instead of the moisture seal. I don’t believe moisture could end up there anyways. I disconnected that subwoofer in the tailgate because its weak and rattles the tailgate like crazy when listening to loud music, but i believe if you use dynamat it should seal it up pretty nice and make the bass sound and feel tighter. I know it helps in quieting down my interior because i hear less of my aftermarket exhaust.
sbojangles
Member
Such a good idea, I just did the same. Happy to report everything is back together again and working well!
stuffley
New Member
Hi, I had exactly the same
Problem and fixed it by replacing about 10cm of wire above the switch. I found an old post on this forum where the same solution worked.
Problem and fixed it by replacing about 10cm of wire above the switch. I found an old post on this forum where the same solution worked.
cperez
Full Access Member
My understanding is that there are 2 primary causes for this problem: 1) broken cable connection where it attaches to the actuator, and 2) worn-out actuator. So the fix depends on which one is causing the problem.
In my case it was a failing, wheezing actuator so I replaced it. But while I had everything opened up, I went ahead and reinforced the cable connection point using the zip tie hack that really binds the connector end of the cable to the actuator.
