A couple of updates, removed the lower timing cover, removed the passenger side timing guides/rails one of which had missing the retaining clips and the plastic guide sort of fell apart, removed the passenger chain, variators, intake cam retaining clips and the cam. Wherever I read that the TP60 socket works for head bolts is a lie, I had to grind down the base of the socket using a drill and my bench grinder to get it to even fit in the head bolt hole but after all of that I figured out it’s not the right tool. Good thing it only cost $11, used a regular T60 Torx to pull out the head bolt. I may have to bite the bullet on getting the right head bolt tool unless someone has one available for sale.
Is there space for something like this https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...wjS9ezXsJfuAhUNbq0KHQpNANwQwg96BAgDED0&adurl=
That’s just a long T60 torx socket... it works to loosen the bolts but I don’t think I want to take any chances when putting new head bolts back in using a T60 as there is some play in them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not sure how much LR are quoting direct https://www.freedomracing.com/jlr-3...c0nDHRGNyIhymQhJet4UtvTxxMIXO93waApCdEALw_wcB
That is the right tool, I was going to pull the trigger on but AGLR4 has graciously offered to lend me his for the job!! I can’t be more great full. I’ve decided to wait out until that arrives before I pull out the rest of the head bolts just in case. In the meantime I did get a quote from a reputable local machine shop on getting the heads milled, they charge $60 per head with same day turn around, and $110+ per head for a full valve service with a 2-3 week turn around. I was initially thinking of doing the work myself but it’s rather tedious and I haven’t bought the tools for it so I may just get it done by the shop to make sure it’s done right considering how little they charge. We are also going to Hawaii for a couple of weeks so this would be a good time to get this done without it really costing me any additional time.
Well that’s a no brainer, enjoy a few more beers on the beach knowing that you don’t need to grind in those valves.
Got the proper LR head bolt removal tool, thanks again AGLR4! Here’s a picture comparing the T60, LR head bolt tool and the TP60: As you can see the splines on the TP60 are just a bit too thick to work. I used the LR tool and it feels nice and tight compared to the T60 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the photo - very helpful! I can see the difference on all 3. Is the LR tool OE or aftermarket? Also - does this mean JLR used a unique, non-industry-standard driver for the head bolts on this AJ133 engine?!!!
If you choose to part it out, let me know. I’m looking for a couple of interior trim items. (Drivers door panel and passenger door panel) if you have tan interior. Also, drivers seat armrest- mine is looking tired. Lastly need the latch that holds the rear seats down. Looks like a fun project- hope you’re able to keep her on the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk IU
Got the exhaust cam and the rest of the head bolts out on the passenger side, luckily no broken head bolts so far. The last part before lifting the head out is to disconnect the exhaust. Does anyone know if its best to remove the exhaust manifold along with the head and just undo the two flange bolts? I think that makes more sense in terms of access, I just want to confirm before I create more work for myself
