Steal of a deal on an LR4 with issues

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LR4Slavo

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A couple of updates, removed the lower timing cover, removed the passenger side timing guides/rails one of which had missing the retaining clips and the plastic guide sort of fell apart, removed the passenger chain, variators, intake cam retaining clips and the cam. Wherever I read that the TP60 socket works for head bolts is a lie, I had to grind down the base of the socket using a drill and my bench grinder to get it to even fit in the head bolt hole but after all of that I figured out it’s not the right tool. Good thing it only cost $11, used a regular T60 Torx to pull out the head bolt. I may have to bite the bullet on getting the right head bolt tool unless someone has one available for sale.

Adjustments.jpg




Adjustments.jpg
 

LR4Slavo

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Stuart Barnes

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LR4Slavo

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That is the right tool, I was going to pull the trigger on but AGLR4 has graciously offered to lend me his for the job!! I can’t be more great full. I’ve decided to wait out until that arrives before I pull out the rest of the head bolts just in case.

In the meantime I did get a quote from a reputable local machine shop on getting the heads milled, they charge $60 per head with same day turn around, and $110+ per head for a full valve service with a 2-3 week turn around. I was initially thinking of doing the work myself but it’s rather tedious and I haven’t bought the tools for it so I may just get it done by the shop to make sure it’s done right considering how little they charge. We are also going to Hawaii for a couple of weeks so this would be a good time to get this done without it really costing me any additional time.
 

Stuart Barnes

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That is the right tool, I was going to pull the trigger on but AGLR4 has graciously offered to lend me his for the job!! I can’t be more great full. I’ve decided to wait out until that arrives before I pull out the rest of the head bolts just in case.

In the meantime I did get a quote from a reputable local machine shop on getting the heads milled, they charge $60 per head with same day turn around, and $110+ per head for a full valve service with a 2-3 week turn around. I was initially thinking of doing the work myself but it’s rather tedious and I haven’t bought the tools for it so I may just get it done by the shop to make sure it’s done right considering how little they charge. We are also going to Hawaii for a couple of weeks so this would be a good time to get this done without it really costing me any additional time.

Well that’s a no brainer, enjoy a few more beers on the beach knowing that you don’t need to grind in those valves.
 

LR4Slavo

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Got the proper LR head bolt removal tool, thanks again AGLR4! Here’s a picture comparing the T60, LR head bolt tool and the TP60:
IMG_8994.jpg


As you can see the splines on the TP60 are just a bit too thick to work. I used the LR tool and it feels nice and tight compared to the T60


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gsxr

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Thanks for the photo - very helpful! I can see the difference on all 3. Is the LR tool OE or aftermarket?

Also - does this mean JLR used a unique, non-industry-standard driver for the head bolts on this AJ133 engine?!!!

o_O
 

scott schmerge

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Hey ya’ll! Slavo from Denver here, new to the forum. I just picked up a ‘10 LR4 HSE Lux (I believe) 5.0 V8 Arctic white with 106k miles on the clock for $2k, but it clearly has its issues.

On the outside it’s in pretty good condition other thank a ding on the rear driver side corner which impacted the bumper a bit (a couple of small cracks that can be plastic welded), the lower tail gate which has a small but relatively easy to fix dent and smashed our tail light which needs to be replaced outright. Everything else appears to still function as it should. The bonus is that the car sits on brand new Bridgestone Blizzaks with fewer than 1k miles on them.

The backstory here is that the previous owner has been plagued with the even side of the engine throwing misfires (not uncommon from what I’ve been reading), this was addressed by replacing spark plugs and all of the injectors on that side. Injectors were replaced on a couple of occasions, the previous owner spent in excess of $7k addressing this with multiple Indy shops in the Denver area, issues which remained unresolved. The car ended up in the hands of the LR dealership for diagnostics. According to LR mechanics, in addition to the injector issues, there may of been an issue with the crossover coolant pipe, which resulted in overheating and a blown head gasket as well as the possibility of stretched timing chains. LR Recommendation is a $23k motor replacement... Yikes!

Previous owner just wanted to get rid of it, I got a sweet deal and the first time I started the car, to see where it was at since I’m already expecting at least a head gasket/timing chain job, at worst a motor replacement, checked fluids, topped off coolant as it was low, I got it to turned over fine and it did eventually start albeit rough followed by a massive plume of white sweet smelling smoke that came billowing out the exhaust - confirms the blown head gasket. However, once the coolant cleared, it’s not sucking in any additional (or not much) coolant and turning over without issue. When the motor is cold, it seems to fire up and runs a bit and doesn’t sound all that bad before cutting out. As it warms up a bit it feels like it’s firing on only half of the cylinders and cuts out faster.

My plan is to pull the spark plugs and injectors on that even bank to see how badly they’re fouled up. Question here is which side of the engine are the even numbered cylinders? The next being is there any other suggestions before I start tearing this motor apart? I plan on investing in an second hand IID tool to help with troubleshooting and overall maintenance.

I’ve read a ton on these motors before posting on here, and can see that if it’s overheated, I’ll likely need to get the head machined, the block re-tapped and sleeved for the head bolts, timing chains/tensioners replaced, get new injectors or have these tested and refurbished, replace the cross pipe, water pump and thermostat while I’m down there.

I’d like to very much fix the car as it’s a dope ride but I’m not opposed to parting it out should this become a full engine replacement.

Any opinions are appreciated!

Thanks so much


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If you choose to part it out, let me know. I’m looking for a couple of interior trim items. (Drivers door panel and passenger door panel) if you have tan interior. Also, drivers seat armrest- mine is looking tired. Lastly need the latch that holds the rear seats down.

Looks like a fun project- hope you’re able to keep her on the road.


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LR4Slavo

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Got the exhaust cam and the rest of the head bolts out on the passenger side, luckily no broken head bolts so far. The last part before lifting the head out is to disconnect the exhaust. Does anyone know if its best to remove the exhaust manifold along with the head and just undo the two flange bolts? I think that makes more sense in terms of access, I just want to confirm before I create more work for myself
 

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