Steal of a deal on an LR4 with issues
- Thread starter LR4Slavo
- Start date
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Another thought, did you break the crank bolt free yet? I'd recommend doing that before you lock in the flywheel. Otherwise you may bend/break that little timing lock or even the flywheel timing hole while you are applying the massive torque needed to break loose that big bolt on the front.
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Dumb question: Isn't the same lock required to tighten the crank bolt? Nevermind, I see there are complicated tools (303-1437, 303-1438) in the FSM which appears to use the pulley bolts and external bracing, so there is no torque applied through the crankshaft. I'd try a high-torque impact wrench for removal.
Note the FSM indicates that the bolt can be either left- or right-hand thread, depending on the rating. 200Nm isn't bad but the 180° or 270° rotation afterwards is nuts. And, one of those number is a typo, but which one? Later in the FSM it only shows 270°, so I'm guessing 180° is the typo:
https://www.amazon.com/Crankshaft-Puller-Pulley-Holder-Removal/dp/B083GGZ2LP
Note the FSM indicates that the bolt can be either left- or right-hand thread, depending on the rating. 200Nm isn't bad but the 180° or 270° rotation afterwards is nuts. And, one of those number is a typo, but which one? Later in the FSM it only shows 270°, so I'm guessing 180° is the typo:
https://www.amazon.com/Crankshaft-Puller-Pulley-Holder-Removal/dp/B083GGZ2LP
Great to know, I though there was a specific notch for this.
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I have not broken it yet, I’m planning on wedging up the pulley just like you did using a jack and a chunk of wood. I’ll do that sooner than later as to not put pressure on the other components. Quick question, is the key notch on the crank visible after you take off the pulley off? I was reading that it should be in the 6 o’clock position but I’m not seeing a notch.
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What manual are you using? The one I’m has great technical info but the illustrations suck.
I do have the 12.9 crank bolt which believe is the opposite thread type.
I’ve read from a few posts that they were unable to achieve the full 200 Nm and 270 degree rotation due to the amount of force required when putting it back on.
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It's the factory Land Rover manual, ~265MB PDF file. Should be a link somewhere on the forum to download it.
The manual states that a torque multiplier capable of 600Nm is required to achieve the 270° rotation. Or a 3/4" breaker bar with cheater pipe.
The manual states that a torque multiplier capable of 600Nm is required to achieve the 270° rotation. Or a 3/4" breaker bar with cheater pipe.
The notch being referred to is the notch in the crankshaft where the key sits to lock in the pulley. You won't see it till you take off the pulley.
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The plot thickens, I shaved a tiny bit off one side of the crankshaft timing locking tool and I was able to slip it in place... cheap Chinese tool for ya... now cams all look to be a tooth or two off, enough where I can’t lock them in place... oh boy.
Working on breaking loose the pulley to see where the cam pulley key is sitting.
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Working on breaking loose the pulley to see where the cam pulley key is sitting.
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Got the crankshaft pulley off the crank, I can’t believe the amount of force that I had to exert on busting that nut loose... heyooo that’s what she said. [emoji23] But seriously, I had to put on a three foot pipe extension on my already long breaker bar to the point it was bending like a banana before it finally released. I second guessed myself and double checked the manual that I was spinning it in the right direction.
Note: Turns out, I put the camshaft timing locking tool in the wrong place... oops! Maybe the cheap Chinese part wasn’t to blame after all... There is a void that I thought the tool was to slip in but it was actually a different spot a a couple of holes over - it’s very subtle, the inserting hole is just slightly bigger than the others... the dead giveaway was that cam key was pointing at 5 o’clock, so I removed the crankshaft and flywheel locking tools, moved the crankshaft to where the key was at 6 o’clock with this improvised method using my biggest flathead:
Put the cam and flywheel locking tools back in and the drivers side cams can now lock. As mentioned earlier that the the passenger exhaust cam slot is perpendicular to the intake, timing is way off there... probably looking at bent valves, hopefully that’s the extent of the damage.
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Note: Turns out, I put the camshaft timing locking tool in the wrong place... oops! Maybe the cheap Chinese part wasn’t to blame after all... There is a void that I thought the tool was to slip in but it was actually a different spot a a couple of holes over - it’s very subtle, the inserting hole is just slightly bigger than the others... the dead giveaway was that cam key was pointing at 5 o’clock, so I removed the crankshaft and flywheel locking tools, moved the crankshaft to where the key was at 6 o’clock with this improvised method using my biggest flathead:
Put the cam and flywheel locking tools back in and the drivers side cams can now lock. As mentioned earlier that the the passenger exhaust cam slot is perpendicular to the intake, timing is way off there... probably looking at bent valves, hopefully that’s the extent of the damage.
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