Steal of a deal on an LR4 with issues
- Thread starter LR4Slavo
- Start date
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Still have a ton to do, the idea is to get the heads off as the head gasket is blown, inflect the damage and if salvageable, I will re-tap the head bolt threads on the block with the NL300s kit, get the heads machined and go over the valves.
I have yet to remove the cross over pipe, disconnect the exhausts at the heads, O2 sensors, valve covers, timing chain covers, crank pulley, power steering pump, oil filter housing, cams, head bolts and heads are out.
This weekend looks like it’s gonna be a cold one... but I ain’t scurred:
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Anyone have a link to a head bolt tool that’s not $100? I was reading that a TP60 fits, but all of the ones I’m seeing look too short. Also read that ribe polydrive sockets fit?
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The head bolts have a built-in flange so the holes are large enough to accommodate those. You should be able to put a TP60 drive on a short extension down into the hole.
I did try a Ribe type before i heard of the TP60, Ribe was slightly different and didn't fit. Not that I recommend it, but I do recall removing all the head bolts with a hex bit. 10 mm if I remember correctly. It wasn't snug enough for putting things back together though, so I ended up just going with the $100 piece as I wanted to have confidence when applying final torque.
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I did try a Ribe type before i heard of the TP60, Ribe was slightly different and didn't fit. Not that I recommend it, but I do recall removing all the head bolts with a hex bit. 10 mm if I remember correctly. It wasn't snug enough for putting things back together though, so I ended up just going with the $100 piece as I wanted to have confidence when applying final torque.
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Ordered a TP60 1/2” drive and this thing is HUGE! About the size of a quarter at the base. I wonder if the flange will be big enough, I’ll see soon enough I guess.
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Few more things have been done, removed the auxiliary tensioner, power steering pump, crossover coolant pipe, the timing covers and valve covers. Damn, was that drivers side valve cover was a gigantic pain, one of the rear bolts was virtually unreachable, I had to do a run to HF for some stubby wrenches to finish this off. My concern will be torquing this to spec on assembly. Anyone have tip on this? I have a 1/4 torque wrench but this may be an issue.
Also got the Camshaft positioning sensor off, found the place to slide the locking key in place to lock the timing but I can’t get the orientation right, the key is off where I can screw it in to keep it in place. I’ll have to play with this some more.
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Also got the Camshaft positioning sensor off, found the place to slide the locking key in place to lock the timing but I can’t get the orientation right, the key is off where I can screw it in to keep it in place. I’ll have to play with this some more.
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Nice progress[emoji108]
It is quite a tight fit. I was working by myself so I remember having to go underneath and then back to the front multiple times to try to tweak the crank a fraction of a degree to get the hole lined up just right. If you have access to a second set of hands, have the other person rotate the crank very slowly while you find the fit.
Note: Avoid the temptation to rotate the crank backwards any significant amount. Rotating backwards causes the timing chains to pull on the tensioners and they can compress ever so slightly, generating slack which may allow you to skip a few teeth and get out of time and risk bending valves.
Also there are multiple holes in the fly wheel, so perhaps you are seeing one of the other holes and not the one that actually is meant to fit the timing tool.
If you are 100% positive that you are looking at the right hole and it still doesn't fit, maybe consider filing the tool a little bit.
I did go with a high quality used timing set rather than a new cheap Chinese ebay version as I was concerned that even a small manufacturing defect might make it hard to use.
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It is quite a tight fit. I was working by myself so I remember having to go underneath and then back to the front multiple times to try to tweak the crank a fraction of a degree to get the hole lined up just right. If you have access to a second set of hands, have the other person rotate the crank very slowly while you find the fit.
Note: Avoid the temptation to rotate the crank backwards any significant amount. Rotating backwards causes the timing chains to pull on the tensioners and they can compress ever so slightly, generating slack which may allow you to skip a few teeth and get out of time and risk bending valves.
Also there are multiple holes in the fly wheel, so perhaps you are seeing one of the other holes and not the one that actually is meant to fit the timing tool.
If you are 100% positive that you are looking at the right hole and it still doesn't fit, maybe consider filing the tool a little bit.
I did go with a high quality used timing set rather than a new cheap Chinese ebay version as I was concerned that even a small manufacturing defect might make it hard to use.
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Thanks for the pic AGLR4! Also suspecting the quality of the tool might be an issue. I used a scope cam and I believe I saw the void where the key should be popping in and it’s just not going in. I’m thinking of taking the starter off when I’m there to see if I see the notch to lock the flywheel in place.
Good tip on not turning the crank bolt the other way, Ive been going all the way around in case timing would mess up just like you were saying... though perhaps it looks like it’s already an issue with the passenger side exhaust cam. The three other cams look relatively where the should be when it’s where the key is supposed to go in and that cam is almost completely perpendicular.
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