Suspension Problem, I haven't one! LR3

[maxx4wd]

the fuse is in the engine bay on the passenger side...I just don't recall which one it is...it's the one that controls the auto leveling...if you find the RSW video on youtube he tells you which fuse to pull. or you can just pull all the ones for the the air system I think there a 2 or 3 total...

 

[roverca]

the fuse is in the engine bay on the passenger side...I just don't recall which one it is...it's the one that controls the auto leveling...if you find the RSW video on youtube he tells you which fuse to pull. or you can just pull all the ones for the the air system I think there a 2 or 3 total...

Thank you! I gotta get this in to the shop to get codes read and cleared. Do you recommend a code reader tool? I'd like to have one that would allow me to lower to access hight for long trips on the highway since I have the Johnson rods in it.

 

[maxx4wd]

Thank you! I gotta get this in to the shop to get codes read and cleared. Do you recommend a code reader tool? I'd like to have one that would allow me to lower to access hight for long trips on the highway since I have the Johnson rods in it.

The RSW software (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-iii-lr3/4dcan-diagnostic-tool) can do what you're asking and it's fairly cheap but you have to have a windows based pad / laptop to operate...I know a lot of guys run the gap tools iidtool (https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/) which seems to be kind of the industry standard for shade tree mechanics...it has a lot more features then the RSW but costs a bit more as well. If I had it to do over again I'd probably get the gap tool...but with that said the RSW does 90% of what I need so I haven't bothered upgrading.

one note though if you do change to access mode for long trips make sure you get a new alignment or it'll just trash your tires...I run the same size and you can visibly see the camber and toe change from "standard" height to access mode...so just be careful there. I pull our trailer up and down the state(s) in standard mode with no issue...it moves around a bit more but haven't had any issues with it being up high for longer trips.

 

[cj60]

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reply
is the O-ring repair kit three different repairs front, rear, relief. Would this be why the front end drops overnight?

O-ring repair kit covers all 3 valve. I will work on the valves this weekend and I can give you an update.

 

[m_lars]

the fuse is in the engine bay on the passenger side...I just don't recall which one it is...I think there a 2 or 3 total...

F3 (5 amp), F26 (20 amp) under the hood and F35 (5 amp) behind the glove box. If you don’t pull the fuse behind the glove box your dash will keep dinging at you to remind you there’s a fault. If you pull F35 it’ll turn the dash light red and stop the noise.

I highly recommend the Bluetooth version of the Gap Diagnostics tool. It’s been well worth the price of entry for me.

 

[Rover2042]

I had the same issue two years ago. I ended up finding pinholes, from rust, on the reservoir that i had cleaned up and welded. Worked for a while then the light came back on, and I ended having to replace the air dryer next to the air compressor. I did it myself, not cheap or easy. Several months later the compressor gave out from rusted fittings on the top of the air shocks. Between the frustration and cost of having one thing after the next to deal with, I reconsidered having to continue to fix a domino effect, so...
Finally I just converted the entire suspension over to coil spring. Took me about 2hrs to change over the air shocks to coil springs and install the module. Haven't had any issues, or lights on the instrument panel. The ride isn't as smooth, with all terrain tires, I like it and for the cost I cannot complain. I purchased the conversion kit at Atlantic British, but Lucky8 offers a similar kit also.

 

[Ian Morrison]

Do you have tool to read/clear the codes? The compressor and special programs won’t turn back on until that code clears.

Try the easiest first. Replace the suspension relay as these are known to cause problems. They are quiet cheap and usually replaced when a new compressor is brought.

 

[m_lars]

Try the easiest first. Replace the suspension relay as these are known to cause problems. They are quiet cheap and usually replaced when a new compressor is brought.

You could certainly do that as it is cheap and easy and could be considered preventative maintenance.

It’s a deep, dark rabbit hole to just start throwing parts at a suspension fault when you don’t even know what codes are being thrown.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[roverca]

I had the same issue two years ago. I ended up finding pinholes, from rust, on the reservoir that i had cleaned up and welded. Worked for a while then the light came back on, and I ended having to replace the air dryer next to the air compressor. I did it myself, not cheap or easy. Several months later the compressor gave out from rusted fittings on the top of the air shocks. Between the frustration and cost of having one thing after the next to deal with, I reconsidered having to continue to fix a domino effect, so...
Finally I just converted the entire suspension over to coil spring. Took me about 2hrs to change over the air shocks to coil springs and install the module. Haven't had any issues, or lights on the instrument panel. The ride isn't as smooth, with all terrain tires, I like it and for the cost I cannot complain. I purchased the conversion kit at Atlantic British, but Lucky8 offers a similar kit also.

How is the ride compared to the ride compared to the air suspension? Comfort, handling around a corner etc?

 

[roverca]

The RSW software (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-iii-lr3/4dcan-diagnostic-tool) can do what you're asking and it's fairly cheap but you have to have a windows based pad / laptop to operate...I know a lot of guys run the gap tools iidtool (https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/) which seems to be kind of the industry standard for shade tree mechanics...it has a lot more features then the RSW but costs a bit more as well. If I had it to do over again I'd probably get the gap tool...but with that said the RSW does 90% of what I need so I haven't bothered upgrading.

one note though if you do change to access mode for long trips make sure you get a new alignment or it'll just trash your tires...I run the same size and you can visibly see the camber and toe change from "standard" height to access mode...so just be careful there. I pull our trailer up and down the state(s) in standard mode with no issue...it moves around a bit more but haven't had any issues with it being up high for longer trips.

Yeah I was wondering about the alignment, thanks for that input. I just wanted it to ride in access mode height while going high speeds on the freeway / highway then go back to the normal height when we got off the freeway. With the tires and the Johnson rods it sits kinda high. Which is good for offroad but sucks for highway. Ill just leave it and drop down to smaller tires when these wear out and take out the Johnson rods. The amount of offloading this thing gets is not worth the drop in drivability on the highway. The bigger tires also make the truck skid when braking quickly. No bueno. I thought about getting a different set and keeping the bigger KO2's but I don't want to get an alignment every time I want to switch tires and taking out Johnson rods just for a little offroad action, not gonna happen.