Wanted: LR3 Wheels OEM 18x8 'grooved' 10 spoke.

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TiVver

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I have one of the 18" in perfect condition and four of the 19" in good condition.
 

BeemerNut

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LB Bill, I had a double take when I quick read Stockwheels thinking Stockton Wheels out in Calif. closed their doors years ago.
The owner took the easy way out in life, a shocker for us into building up steel wheels. Different hoops and offsets to centers on our project vehicles. Pre 64 T Bird wheels that were riveted together our go to rims being easy to drill out plugging the holes in the hoops. The centers reset to the offset required then welded up on a hub fixture we made. DIY rims that never broke off road, bent yes then pounded "good enough" and kept rolling vs cracked or broken alloys. Our day we gambled with true magnesium wheels known to crack on the street.
Nothing wrong with used rims if you can see them first and mount on a hub checking thay spin dead nuts true. Recons i've seen bad curb rash filled in with Bondo not finding out until later when Bondo pops off, too late your screwed. Radial and axial check as well the bead spinning true or else dealing with out of balance issues once the tread begins to wear round. Same BS with crappy wheel spacers being NOT HUBCENTRIC contact with the hub flange. .....~~=o&o>.....
 

LB Bill

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Stockwheels
Yeah, I've never done business with them, but I know they've been around for a while. I think they deal mostly with 'take-offs'...both dealer and aftermarket sources, you know, when the buyer just has to have those 'other' wheels...wants that certain RRS style or when OEM just isn't good enough. What I do know is they have quite a mark-up. One of the members was wanting to sell LR4 19" Blackpack style OEM's...they offered him $50 ea...incl the center caps, no less. It must cost a lot to shine'em-up? Joking aside, it's unlikely that they would put anything defective to the point of hazardous back out on the road. But hey, buyer beware...due-diligence!
 

BeemerNut

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Take---Offs are one of the best ways to get clean straight set of rims off a shop not as cheap as private party purchases. I still want to see mounted and spun rims before buying period!
StockWheels I bet all their rims they had mountedand spun then checked for any flaws vs shipping out crap like Ebay with their "as is no returns" in small print listings.
My question, what they consider good enough in slight wobble (axially) or egg shaped (radially) the rim bead areas. Also a constant rim width spacing.

I have run across three different 94 and 95 D1's that had wheel vibration issues and it was from bent rims from tyre shops not curb or hard hit off a rock off road impacts. This over a 22 year span owning a LR. At one local alloy rim repair shop I was told the rims for LR's were soft able to bend vs crack from off road impacts including smacking curbs plustyre shop monkeys catching a rim lip on the vertical shaft machines busting beads. Being lazy applying pressure inn only one location and not turning the tyre and working an area 4-5 inches away. A little tyre mounting liquid applied working into the bead greatky reduces the applied pressures to break a bead vs dry.
Add the monkey catching the rim lip itself then standing on the foot valve getting the maximum usual shop line pressure of 175 psi applied to the ram able to apply extremely high side loading pressures against the rim, bingo now a bent wobbling rim.


Second item, tyre shops did not have the correct centering cone diameter to balance wheels then using the adjustable spider. These are worn out POS items having connected studs by a gear system having a lot of gear mesh backlask placing the wheel in an eccentric orbit. Next the monkey telling you your rims are out of round or just able to balance them anyway. Yeah right half azzed shakers unless your hubs are designed to maintain the same orbit of the balance job.
A 3/8" steel disc machined to slide fit into the rim's concentric pocket, disc ID machined (bored out) out to just slide onto the balancer arbor, BINGO rims spins like a top looking as if standing still now the wheel can be perfecly balanced.

TerraFirma wheel spacers of 165 mm D1 & D2 stud circle do not make concentric contact with the rim resulting in all four wheels having vibration or out of balance issues to a point people removing them off their D1 and D2 vehicles.
Their spacers rely on the coned lug nuts and not the hub for concentric alignment and load bearing vehicle weight now on the studs and not trasfered to the hubs. Adding insult the spacer's concentric lip DO NOT contact the rim concentric area to maintain concentric wheel alignment by five concentric lip sections only bslanning across the relief sections of the rim for clearance of the drive axle spokes and bolt heads.

Clearance between the parallel lug nut body and larger bore of the rims is how much the wheel is hanging down now in an eccentric orbit hence out of balance which I recall is a 57npound mass the rim and tyre combination. Instant vibration issues, talking 2.97 ounces out of balance each wheel times four corners shaking.
Like others I was unhappy and ****** as once installed NO RETURNS of these defective product spacers and not cheap even on sale.

Ended up making rolled stainless shim stock 3/4" wide inserted into each stud bore now having a thumb slide fit to parallel shank lug nuts solving all the vibration issues. Removing the thin tin valve stem cap is enough weight to start the wheel to rotate out of balance on the static wheel balancer I built for my motorcycles.
A spare D1 hub mounted on a stand with a balanced wheel spun up by a 2 Hp 3 phase motor and variable frequency drive able to spin wheels fron 9 to 78 mph. This passing above the primary and secondary out of balance rpm zones. Radial as well axual balance checked as turbine smooth afterwards checking the tyre shop spin balance. They have a plus/minus 1/10 ounce balance machine tolerance which is only good if the machine has been checked and calibrated which is a No in tyre shops. No weights exposed on the outboard and inboard sides of the rims per customer instructions by me.

There is a reason why I dismount and mount my own tyres as well rotate the tyre to find the mininum amount of weights required to balance. Your not going to get this attention in 90%b of tyre shops.
I'll get flamed for this reply then called a wise azz.....~~=o&o>......
 

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