blackforestham
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I believe it's referred to as the Track Rod. Get new bolts Adam.
Weird cornering performance - Help
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OffRoving
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Not sure of exact term but I was led to believe it was the trailing arm. It's used in alignment and does have adjustability along it. The bolt in question is the one which actually failed me [another thread] a couple of weeks ago when it broke in half.
The example I mentioned of it loosening was years ago on my RR Sport, not my current LR3. The bold was simply tightened and it was never understood why it loosened. I never had any other trouble with it and all problems immediately went away.
When it was loose there was a sensation that the car would not react to slight turning on the winding freeways quickly enough then all of a sudden would over react [turn tightly]. Turns out that with the loose bolt the sudden reaction was a shifting of inertia coupled with the directional change of the tire causing an near-four-wheel-turning action [though only 3 were changing turned direction].
The bolt in question is of course not shown in this picture as it is the bolt which broke. This image shows the trail repair to get me going again whereby we forced the arm back into a seated position without the bolt in place. So the bolt is what holds this arm to the wheel section from the long thin arm [horizontal].
The example I mentioned of it loosening was years ago on my RR Sport, not my current LR3. The bold was simply tightened and it was never understood why it loosened. I never had any other trouble with it and all problems immediately went away.
When it was loose there was a sensation that the car would not react to slight turning on the winding freeways quickly enough then all of a sudden would over react [turn tightly]. Turns out that with the loose bolt the sudden reaction was a shifting of inertia coupled with the directional change of the tire causing an near-four-wheel-turning action [though only 3 were changing turned direction].
The bolt in question is of course not shown in this picture as it is the bolt which broke. This image shows the trail repair to get me going again whereby we forced the arm back into a seated position without the bolt in place. So the bolt is what holds this arm to the wheel section from the long thin arm [horizontal].
ryan-in-oregon
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1st. I did experiance the turning sensation on the freeway the whole way North so it was telling me something was about to happen and I wasn't listening....
2nd. Looks like your failure is on the right side too, Not that it makes much difference but I wonder if it is the bolt on the right side only failing similar to the rear hatch strut....And my bolt (original) didn't have any loctite on the threads when it came out....
2nd. Looks like your failure is on the right side too, Not that it makes much difference but I wonder if it is the bolt on the right side only failing similar to the rear hatch strut....And my bolt (original) didn't have any loctite on the threads when it came out....
Well I ended up going to the dealer. The Langley guy was great but he was only $200 cheaper. Dealer diagnosed the ball joint as well. Yes only a $49 part but the labour is high AND there is a chance other parts of the control arm bushings could fail so I opted for an entire assembly. $800 for just the replacement or $1000 for the whole assembly being replaced including Ball Joint. Plus no matter who does it, you need to take it to the dealer for an alignment.
Clunking noise gone on speed bumps BUT I just took another trip to Whistler and it happened again on the corners to a lesser degree!!
Ahh back to square one. I will check the bearings as suggested and I am going to replace the tire.
And yes, I am from the LML...Whistler was great this past week!!!
Clunking noise gone on speed bumps BUT I just took another trip to Whistler and it happened again on the corners to a lesser degree!!
Ahh back to square one. I will check the bearings as suggested and I am going to replace the tire.And yes, I am from the LML...Whistler was great this past week!!!
