WHAT WOULD YOU DO!? BUYING MY FIRST LR4...

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ktm525

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You people with not only one dealer, but several withing easy distance aren't getting the main concern here. Thunder Bay is no where near a dealer and in areas like that there are also slim choices for truly competent independent shops. I would not buy a Land Rover, especially newer, without 100% capable shop in same town.

The issue is not so much that you'll need a flatbed, I never have on 4 LR vehicles over nearly 500,000 miles, but the smallest problem can turn into a massive annoyance if you're having to rely on distant support.

Best choices for someone in that region are Toyota, Ford, Subaru, etc.


I agree 100%. If there is a Toyota dealer in Thunder Bay then buy a 4Runner. Otherwise you better have uber mechanical skills, own a pile of tools and have the desire to turn them, a hoist and a high end scan gauge.
 

Azoo

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I agree 100%. If there is a Toyota dealer in Thunder Bay then buy a 4Runner. Otherwise you better have uber mechanical skills, own a pile of tools and have the desire to turn them, a hoist and a high end scan gauge.

I totally agree with Ktm525, If you happen to be a DIY kinda guy then you don't have much to worry about but if not then go for a LEXUS LX570, 4Runner Land Cruiser etc . The only reason i bought an LR was the fact that i could fix medium to high level stuff, i'm able to read codes, change fluids, brakes, suspension parts, electrical stuff etc and i have plenty of tools.

But i understand exactly how you feel, I spent years (about 10yrs or more) dreaming of owning an LR, each time i saw one drive past me on the hwy my heart skipped a beat. I actually wanted an RRS but the only way i could get my wife onboard was to get a 3Seater. When the time was right i spotted one that looked gorgeous on Autotrader which was an HSE LUX edition, 7hours drive away from me. I called the dealer immediately and paid a deposit over the phone and my wife and I took the train from Ontario to Quebec the next day. After i inspected the car and everything checked out good, we drove it back to Ontario.

So how do i feel now about the LR after two years, Well everything is still kosher, i've done 4 oil changes, All 4 brakes/Rotors, tranny fluid change just drain and fill, water pump and crossover pipe, 1 battery, LCA's, Plugs and Idler pulley and all 4 tires. I did everything all by myself in my garage except for the water/crossover pipe which the dealer did. I've spent 2 summers detailing the car in and out, I have a shelf stocked with wheel cleaners, tire shine, wax, leather polish etc, i do a full detail almost every saturday as long a there is no rain in the forecast.

So will i buy an LR again , maybe or maybe not but for now i'm still enjoying the ride. So i understand how you feel, you probably might not rest until you buy an LR.
 

jwest

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But i understand exactly how you feel, I spent years (about 10yrs or more) dreaming of owning an LR, each time i saw one drive past me on the hwy my heart skipped a beat.
....
I did everything all by myself in my garage except for the water/crossover pipe which the dealer did. I've spent 2 summers detailing the car in and out, I have a shelf stocked with wheel cleaners, tire shine, wax, leather polish etc, i do a full detail almost every saturday as long a there is no rain in the forecast.

So will i buy an LR again , maybe or maybe not but for now i'm still enjoying the ride. So i understand how you feel, you probably might not rest until you buy an LR.

I love this post. For years I had zero means of buying into the Land Rover make but then the means developed and the justification as well. That was 1999 and I still own 3 of them ;)

However, my goal summer 2017 was to spend less on tools and parts than a dealer would cost for a comprehensive job that at their estimate, was also roughly the total resale value LOL. So I decided to learn and build a killer mini shop.

The project was all 8 control arms and all connected suspension wear items including toe links, etc. All 4 corners rotors, pads, fluid flush, as well as replaced with factory v6 spec rotors to allow factory 17" wheels. Also the struts.

Yes, the above job was quoted to over $12,000 and that did not include the unknowns involved with working around the aftermarket Magnaflow exhaust that severely restricts access to the toe links as does the exhaust itself which I didn't realize until into the job.

While I was at it I also repaired 2 leaks on the 2nd fuel tank. These aftermarket areas gobble up shop tech hours due to there being no known procedure unless you've done it a few times. Everything I did would have easily come up against $15,000 which I'd be one lucky dude to get on resale simply due to the mileage regardless of how perfect it is in working order and one owner, all records, etc.

So I still spent over $10k on tools, but I'll have those when this one is gone and learned at least a few $k in working knowledge.

If I were moving to Thunder Bay, which I would love for the nordic skiing! I'd be into a Land Cruiser 200 series in a single heartbeat.
 

ktm525

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I bought my 2010 LR4 HSE Lux used (3 years old, 45k miles and 1/2 MSRP) and it was about $20k cheaper than comparable Lexus LXs and $10k cheaper than GXs I figured that amount would pay for lots of Land Rover stuff. So far it has been good, much less trouble prone than my former LR3 knock on wood. That was almost 6 years ago and now the rig is almost 9 years old. In the spring it may be the time to change it out before anything crops up. We will see. I do know that from here on out it will likely be a steady diet of bushings, air suspension bits, timing chain tensioners (still original at 165k kms), transmission service. Hmmm. Perhaps a case of getting out while the gettings good. I can probably sell for about $20-$25k less than what I bought it for. 6 years of use for $25k is about $350/month which is excellent considering it is in Canuckistan dollars. US$ would be $259/month.
 

Unusual-Auto

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If I had it all to do over? 1989 60 series Toyota Land Cruiser (diesel) red, mostly stock. Use the money saved to buy a small house, knowing I'd never be bled to death on repair bills.
 

John Pallett

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I just bought my first Land Rover this week (an LR4 like you) so I have some immediate tips, hope they help.

(1) I wouldn't buy an LR4 without having a Land Rover mechanic check it out. Our local independent LR mechanic saved me... I was very interested in an LR4 that looked great and drove well, with a good maintenance history and Carfax but fortunately I paid for an inspection and the mechanic saved me from buying a lemon (oil in the coolant, all cooling rubber tubes soft & squishy due to long-running oil exposure, possible major issues). Inspection cost ranges from $100-$200 but it can save you a lot. If you can't get an inspection, I just wouldn't buy it.

With the LR4 that I bought, I found an LR mechanic near the seller, and the seller took it in (they were several hours away from us). Clean bill of health!

(2) I also passed on one model because the Carfax showed it'd been in a front-end accident.

(3) On options, I landed a base model, 5 seater, with the cold-weather package. I'd rather spend money on lower mileage than options I don't need. The base model is a very nice car, beautiful leather and trim, and the basic sound system is great.

(FWIW, I grew up near where you live and I do think the cold-weather package would be worth it... saves on scraping ice.)

(4) There are a lot of 2015 LR4s (mostly HSEs) coming on the market right now, I think because their leases and 3-year/50k mile warranties are running out, so it's a good time to be looking. In my experience there were quite a few coming up at auction; you may be able to find a wholesaler or used car dealer that can look at those for you. Even though I didn't ultimately buy from them, one of our local dealers was helpful and proactive about finding me several options.

(5) Road salt, I think it's used in Thunder Bay. If you're buying a used LR4 whose original home was Miami or Texas, I'm not sure whether there are concerns bringing it into a salty environment. I had the opposite concern (LR4s whose original homes included road salt), so I can't give good advice on what you should look for, but you can probably call a dealership and ask what they'd recommend.

(6) I've had two mechanics now recommend after-market extended warranties. I'm still researching options, but the feedback was that they'd pay for themselves and de-risk the entire purchase. Both mechanics offered to review the exclusions/inclusions to make sure it was good coverage for an LR4.

Hope this was helpful, and hope you end up finding a solid option.
 
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John Pallett

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PS: Forgot to mention, I agree about looking for a 2012 or 2013 V8 (mine is a 2013). I had a couple of mechanics tell me the later-model V6SC engine is harder to access, and possibly(?) less reliable than the V8, though I don't have data to support that either way. What I do know is that I prefer a stick gear selector over a dial. :)
 

jrza101

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Alan,

First, I have no idea why people were so bugged by the all caps. Weird, right? Maybe they feel like you’re yelling? Anyway...I would not do it. I have a 2012 LR4 that I’m trying to get rid of. I love this car more than any other that I have ever driven and it’s killing me to sell it. The actual vehicle is amazing...when I can drive it. I’ve taken it on some pretty amazing off road adventures and it is an absolute off road monster but with luxury to spare. Mine is the HSE LUX HD. It has been plagued with problems. I’ve owned for a year and a half and I’m not exaggerating when I say that it’s been in the shop for 4 months of that time. I’m in Wyoming so my closest dealer is two hours away in Salt Lake City and the car could probably drive itself there at this point. I’ve also had to tow it twice. Maybe I’m the unlucky exception but I never would have bought it hadi known it was going to be this and. The V8’s are notorious for blowing the head gasket and the water pump going bad. The head gasket alone cost $6500 to fix. I hear that the SCV6 is much less problematic so maybe get one newer than the 2012. My mechanic told me that the LR3 is a much better way to go. Not as many frills but he said that he has never had to replace a head gasket on a LR3. He said that he’s seen many last to 300k and beyond. Hope this helps!
 

ryanjl

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Alan,

First, I have no idea why people were so bugged by the all caps. Weird, right? Maybe they feel like you’re yelling? Anyway...I would not do it. I have a 2012 LR4 that I’m trying to get rid of. I love this car more than any other that I have ever driven and it’s killing me to sell it. The actual vehicle is amazing...when I can drive it. I’ve taken it on some pretty amazing off road adventures and it is an absolute off road monster but with luxury to spare. Mine is the HSE LUX HD. It has been plagued with problems. I’ve owned for a year and a half and I’m not exaggerating when I say that it’s been in the shop for 4 months of that time. I’m in Wyoming so my closest dealer is two hours away in Salt Lake City and the car could probably drive itself there at this point. I’ve also had to tow it twice. Maybe I’m the unlucky exception but I never would have bought it hadi known it was going to be this and. The V8’s are notorious for blowing the head gasket and the water pump going bad. The head gasket alone cost $6500 to fix. I hear that the SCV6 is much less problematic so maybe get one newer than the 2012. My mechanic told me that the LR3 is a much better way to go. Not as many frills but he said that he has never had to replace a head gasket on a LR3. He said that he’s seen many last to 300k and beyond. Hope this helps!

The V8's are notorious for blowing head gaskets?
 

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