Where's the leak?

[cmb6s]

Land Rover wiring diagram shows that it should be 60A. My guess is that it blew and the mechanic (or previous owner) just replaced it with whatever they had on hand. Doubt it has anything to do with your issues, but I would replace it with a 60A when you have time.

 

[BearishDriver]

I remember it had a 60 amp before when the hitachi was fitted...
I wil change it ASAP then.

I was asking because I had no idea if changing to the AMK meant changing the FL10 as well...

 

[thorgal]

I remember it had a 60 amp before when the hitachi was fitted...
I wil change it ASAP then.

I was asking because I had no idea if changing to the AMK meant changing the FL10 as well...

Yes , changing to AMK requires an fuse upgrade to 70 AMPs.

 

[thorgal]

Even with just a software update on Hitachi , that was documented long time a go with a TSB , dealer was switching to 70 AMPS.

 

[BearishDriver]

Oh my woow so it is running with almost half the current hahahah
Thanks, I will go to the autozone after work and get a 70 amp then.

Thanks thorgal

 

[cmb6s]

Hmm, I'm not sure where you've seen that the fusible link should be replaced with a 70A link. I've never heard of that, though it may be out there somewhere. I would be wary of "upping" the fuse rating though since the wiring was chosen with a specific max current in mind from the factory. Below you will find the three service bulletins that I have related to the compressor upgrade/software reflash/relay replacement.

Tech Bulletin 225023
Tech Bulletin 149584
Tech Bulletin 167845

 

[BearishDriver]

Right, I've never heard of it either...
They only had 60 amps at my local autozone anyhow so I bought that.

Unfortunately you were right cmb6s, issue persists.

 

[cmb6s]

Just saw this post over on the disco3 board this morning. You may want to keep an eye on it to see if there are any responses. Seems like your issue may be similar?

http://www. disco3. co.uk /forum/topic140931.html

 

[BearishDriver]

That looks interesting, many thanks cmb6s I however have no idea of what ohms means let alone how to test for it.

I will answer there and see what's new.

 

[BearishDriver]

so I am chatting with the poster of that thread, never the less it looks like the issue is different.
Anyhow, I discovered another random thing today:

I finally got it (partially) into access mode but it only lowered the front of it, the rear remained at standard height... I pushed the lever up and the front got back into standard height with no issues at all.
The compressor pumped for a few seconds and everything seemed normal... fault returned after a few minutes of driving. The weird thing here was why did the rear remained at standard height! Any ideas guys?