Lr4 Brakes

[suvowner]

This will be the end of my saga. This weekend, after trying 2x to stop the annoying squealing of my brakes, I replaced my rear rotors and brake pads at my own expenses (car has 12k miles). I bought bremo rotors and ECB brake pads. When I began I noticed about a 1" ring of rust around the outside of my rear rotors. I thought alittle strange but nothing of it. Well the reason there was a 1" ring of rust is because my dealer, under direct instruction from LRNA, ground the edges off the allegedly brand new brake pads that they had installed the 1st time I brought the car in. What I thought was a truly bizarre "deglazing" abd lubrication of brand new pads became a complete grinding of the new pads so that maybe 80% of the pad contacted the rotor. Now I am beyond shocked because they intentionally reduced the capacity for the car to stop safely and correctly. This defies logic, and I cannot believe they made a conscious decision to do this. LRNA told me on the phone that, Yes they do recommend deglazing and "lubricating" the pads to stop squealing, but do not tell the techs to grind the pads down to remove an edge. I have an idea, why don't you fix the pads instead of compromising your customers’ safety. I really hope this foolishness does not result in someone being seriously hurt; I am just floored at this. I told the Rep at LRNA that I would gladly bring the parts I removed to LRNA headquarters, as it is about 12 miles from my house, to see what they are recommending their Dealerships do . Honestly, I have owned Audi's, BMW, MB as well as fords Chevy’s toyota, honda etc ...this is a first for me...Seriously pathetic...12k miles, people!!! I really hope none of you need to deal with this, but be aware of it, because it is true and it happened…

the problem is more likely the caliper than the rotor or pad.....there is a tsb for rear brake squealing when backing up and they replace the caliper mounts and bolts i think and solved my problem......you should verify whether this tsb applies to your lr4 mine is 2011, 35000 miles and still on original pads and rotos, had it checked at 25,000 and had 80% remaining in front and 90 in rear, but first 12k miles i kept my wheel and rotors really clean.....would use full strength orange degreaser from home depot and good water pressure.....same goes for my mtb and atv, dirty rotors make alot more noise than clean ones....brakes are like musical instruments all can resonate at slightly different frequencies.....you can also try having your rotor cryo-dipped which will harden it and increase its life and change its resonant frequency......whatever you do don't get one drilled with holes or slotted, solid rotors are almost always the quietest

 

[1badrover]

Rear Pad replacement

I just replaced the rear pads on my LR4 last night. The new OEM rear pads are shaped different and so are the pad clips. Thinking that's what LR changed to stop the squelling problem. Not sure I installed the pads correctly or not. Has anyone done their own yet or seen a TSB on which way the pads and clips go in? Here's the differences, They've cut a taper into one side of all the pads and there's a left and right pair for each wheel.
So, should the pads be installed with the taper towards the bottom, or pointed up? There's also a top an bottom clip now where before they were both alike. I can see where one of the clips actualy will push against the pads now to keep them form virbrating. Should that clip go on the bottom
or the top? The first test drive was quiet, so perhaps I chose wisely...
Help, anybody know for sure?

 

[NWLRFan]

The direction of rotation will go into the taper. Funny that this is new for LR as this has been standard for years on most makes.

 

[LR4TQ]

well, it's time to get new pads AGAIN...i am at 48k and this will be my second brake job. anyone bought from buybrakes.com for pads?

 

[Quijote]

I'm sorry, $1740 for rear discs and pads?!

I bought front rotors and pads for my 330i for less than $300 and changed them myself in less than 2 hours - the first time. I can guarantee you experienced techs do that job in under an hour.

What do parts cost for this car? If they charge more than 3 hours of labor they should be booked for theft. I can't imagine parts being more than $500. There is absolutely no reason to be charged more than $1000 for the job and even that sounds ridiculous as I type it.

 

[NWLRFan]

Its too bad that the stealer charges so much. The parts are actually quite cheap and after you do a brake job once you will see just how easy it really is if you are just replacing pads and rotors.

 

[ricker]

Last week I had the rear brakes renewed for the first time on my 2010 LR4. 31,100 miles (2/3 city and 1/3 highway driving). The front brakes still look good.

Paid slightly less than $700 for rotors and pads.

 

[northwind]

2006 LR3 with 61,000 miles going in to replace my first set of pads and rotors.

 

[goblue95]

I have no idea how some people on this board are getting so much life out of their brakes - I'm at 26k miles on my 2011 LR4 and probably heading pretty soon toward my second set of front and rear brake pads and rotors. It was recommended (although not required) by both the dealer and a local shop to change out the rotors as well each time I change the pads (something about them not being able to cut the rotors like they do on domestic cars due to the 'lip' that forms), although I'm thinking of trying to change just the pads this time around, since that will save me about $600 in parts and labor. Thoughts/suggestions?

 

[Quijote]

Brakes depend too much on driving style and terrain. City/hwy, style of driving and either hills or no hills can make a big difference on a heavy car.

I drove the crap out of my 330i and it didn't need brakes until 60k miles of non-hwy driving. My 190E needed brakes every 20k miles. Automatics cars also wear out brakes more quickly.