LR4 brake issues

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gcatino

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Trying to figure out warped rotor issues on a 2016 LR4 with 60k miles. Rotors on the truck keep warping around 5-6k miles. Have redone the lower control arms and switched out the brake booster. Just put on Akebono pads and rotors to see if this makes a difference. If these do the same next step would be to go with OEM pads and rotors. Any thoughts on uneven tire wear causing this problem?
 

powershift

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Its possible that someone is tightening the wheels wrong, unless you are buying cheap **** off Amazon.
 

f1racer328

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How’s the condition of your brake calipers? I’ve noticed the caliper pins are somewhat temperamental if they aren’t cleaned and lubed.

I’m on my 3rd set of pads and 80k miles on OEM rotors without any warping.
 

ktm525

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Yes clean and grease caliper pins yearly. Use silicone based lube (sil glyde). I have battled this in the past. Confirm that your hubs are within runout spec and clean. Check lateral runout again once the rotors are mounted to confirm. Sometimes I can get a slight shimmy if vehicle has done lots of light braking (ie wife). I find a few long hard and hot stops cleans things up and all is good. I have had good luck with Zimmermann and OE rotors.
 

jlglr4

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I had warped rotors shortly after buying my 2016 (used). Replaced with Zimmerman and haven‘t a problem since. I don’t know what was on it when I bought it. I’ve heard drilled rotors will warp more quickly - not sure about slotted (no personal experience) - not sure what OP had on it. Personally, I think this has a lot to do with calipers sticking. I remove and re-grease pins whenever I do the brakes, but I still run into at least one caliper at the next brake change that doesn’t move as good as the rest - and not just on the LR, my other cars as well.

If you have an IR temp gun, you could check your wheels after a drive once in a while - see if one is heating up more than the others.
 

Harold_C

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Shortly after I picked up my 2016 LR4, I experienced a sticky caliper that resulted in a warped rotor. I replaced the pads and rotors (Frerodo pads, Zimmerman rotors) but also lubricated the caliper pins to prevent the sticking caliper. I haven't had a ton of miles on the new setup, but the lubricated pins seem to help and the brakes seem to react with more sensitivity than before.
 

gcatino

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Thanks for the ideas. Yes I have heard a lot about over torque on the lug nuts. I will check the Caliper pins for sticking.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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my wheel hubs are due so I get a little shimmy through my steering wheel when braking from highway speeds. I also run heavy wheels (tuffant steelies) and tires which definitely exaggerate the issue. as long as your very sure youve been good on the brakes and that it isn't wheel hubs, I'd go the guide pins route.

PS: Im at 146k
 

ktm525

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Shimmy on braking can also be LCAs and to lesser extent tie rods (inner or outer). Fun times.
 

RoverTide

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I've developed a pretty wicked shimmy when I brake at highway speeds. To the point where it can be a little scary if you have to stop quickly. It only does it when I initially brake though... it goes away with continued braking. Trying to figure out if its warped rotors, sticking caliper pins, LCA's, tie rods, or something else. LCA's have 44k miles on them, front brake rotors/pads have 11k miles on them and tires have 18k on them and regularly balance and rotated. Not sure how long LCA's and Front Brakes typically last on these vehicles though. Thinking about doing new pads and rotors and making sure the caliper slides are clean and greased to rule that out. But would love to hear some opinions on other ways to diagnose this.
 

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