2016 LR4 Suspension Issue

[sctraveller]

I have a 2016 LR4 Lux that has started to lower in the front driver's side wheel when left overnight. I have removed the fuse under the hood, the 3rd one up on the right side of the fuse box. When I have that fuse out the car is fine it does not lower at all overnight. It drives fine, once I start the car the suspension levels off and I don't have any warning lights etc. So I don't believe I have a leak and I am wondering what else I can check to determine what the issue might be? Any thoughts or input anyone might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[ryanjl]

It drops overnight, but when you remove the fuse it does not drop at all?

Are you parking on level ground?

Try removing the fuse again, only this time put it in offroad height before you do.

Not all leaks result in an error code. Even if you have a leak, the compressor will overpower it (unless it's a really bad leak) and level the suspension out once the car is turned on.

 

[sctraveller]

@ryanjl Yes if the fuse is out it does not drop at all. Parked on level ground. I have tried removing the fuse at both offroad height and normal driving height and nothing drops with the fuse out. But if I put the fuse in the next morning the front right is all the way down. When I start the car it turns the compressor on and levels everything out as it should be. I have watched the 4x4 screen and the white lines above the tires move back to the proper height above the wheels after it levels off. The car drives fine and does not show any signs of being uneven while driving. Just when I park it at night in the garage with the fuse in front right lowers.

 

[RoverTide]

Definitely following this thread....

 

[Rover Range]

With the fuse out, that eliminates the struts themselves.

You're more that likely looking at the front suspension valve block, has an internal leak. With the fuse in, there may be a stray voltage that cycles the valve block.

 

[Longtrail]

It's a little weird that with the fuse out the vehicle stays still, to me this implies that there's not a leak. You see, with the fuse in the vehicle can adjust vehicle height as needed even when it's not operating. Regardless, I would pull the valve block out (it's in the passenger side front wheel liner) and treat the valve to a clean and new seals (there are a number of threads on this forum and also a few good YouTube videos that explain what to do). One issue over time is that silica from the compressor gets in to the seals and causes very small leaks. It's a pretty easy job to do. The same can't be said of the rear valve block (access issues).

I'm wondering if it's something to do with the ride height sensors, could they be somehow misleading the ride ECU during the night? Again, that would be weird given your observations in your second post.

 

[Longtrail]

This thread is where I started looking at the front valve, a couple of YouTube videos are referenced, also, feel free to read the thread as I go down the rabbit hole with the suspension (and get great help from the awesome folks here ):

2012 LR4 Reluctant to lower from off-road suspension mode

Changing the dryer, if you have a Hitachi compressor, is straight forward. Hardest part will be disconnecting the hoses from the back side of the compressor (intake and exhaust hoses), and re-installing the compressor bracket when you reassemble due to a hard to reach bolt that need to be...

www.landroverworld.org

This may also be helpful:

 

[ryanjl]

With the fuse out, that eliminates the struts themselves.

You're more that likely looking at the front suspension valve block, has an internal leak. With the fuse in, there may be a stray voltage that cycles the valve block.

This is what I was thinking. Something electronic is causing things to leak, and the front valve block is really all there is in that regard.

 

[ftillier]

I'm still curious to know what the actual difference is between the front and rear valve blocks - I'm having sagging of the front after my control arm replacement, not sure if it's due to having depressurized the system and some desiccant dust got into the solenoids and are keeping them from closing properly, or if the extended range of motion of the strut sprung a leak. The front valve blocks still show out-of-stock, but the rear is available. I don't have spares to dismantle and compare, but I'm curious to know if you could adapt (perhaps just by changing the connection pins) the rear block to work on the front, or if there are orifice differences or whatnot.

I'm also curious if folks have found a good o-ring kit to rebuild the valve blocks. The last one I got from Amazon was a bunch of o-rings, that might have fit, but did not look to be a match for what was on there.

 

[sctraveller]

@Longtrail thanks. I may just replace the front valve block as they are not very expensive and just have a brand new one in there. So my assumption (hopefully correct) is that I can just replace the one in the front and hopefully fix the issue. If it does not correct the issue sounds like the last thing to check is the ride height sensors. Thanks all for your thoughts and input on this.