DIY: Front brake rotor replacement

[mko9]

Yes, I was using a 3/8" ratchet with about an 18" handle on it. That plus my 6' and 200lbs, and I am able to generate plenty of torque.

BTW, thanks KTM525 for providing the tech with the actual specs.

 

[Quijote]

Yes, I was using a 3/8" ratchet with about an 18" handle on it. That plus my 6' and 200lbs, and I am able to generate plenty of torque.

BTW, thanks KTM525 for providing the tech with the actual specs.

This is the 3/8" torque wrench that I have, and it's a nice, CDI-Torque wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/CDI-1002MFRMH-8-Inch-Handle-100-Ft-lbs/dp/B002LA19P2

As you can see it is rated to no more than 100ft-lbs. You can generate all the torque you want through brute strength or cheater bars, and of course a plain ratchet can go well beyond that, but the 3/8" ratchet may well snap on you when you get to 200 ft-lbs. Be safe.

Note that the 1/2" torque wrenches get you to 250 ft-lbs. The 3/4" gets you to 600ft-lbs. Just for reference.

 

[ktm525]

I just assume everyone has a quality 1/2 torque wrench. How else are wheels being installed to spec?

 

[alexcorral]

I have a set of Atlantic British rotors and OEM pads that had bought to replace before we traded in our 2013 LR4. Let me know if anyone is interested and make me an offer. They’re just sitting in the garage in an unopened box.

 

[ryanjl]

For anyone who comes upon this thread, the procedure for the rear is a little more involved due to the fact that the rear rotor doubles as a drum for the parking brake.

Procedure is discussed here:

https://www.landroverworld.org/posts/146214/

That post describes a procedure by which the parking brake is put into "service mode."

The IID Tool can do this, although the tool calls it "mounting mode." It's in the I/O menu; not the Service menu.

Other than the service mode and subsequent bedding procedure for the parking brakes, the rest of the rear is done like this:

 

[Mozambique]

Great write up......thanks!
I am having a similar issue on my 2011. Was wondering if it was the LCA's, but they were replaced in 2016. Spoke to my indy mechanic and he reckoned it was rotors, as the judder only occurs at high speed (65k miles).

I have a runout meter thingy from when I was rebuilding my Jeep gearbox. I presume I can use it to check the warp on the rotors? Anyone know what acceptable tolerances are? With the wheel off, how the hell do you turn the rotor? Or.........does braking judder at high speed only sound like good enough indication of warped rotors on its own?

 

[Quijote]

I have a bit of judder but it only happens with my original set of contis. When I put on the winter wheel/tire setup it goes away. It probably means that there is a balancing issue with mine.

 

[ktm525]

Great write up......thanks!
I am having a similar issue on my 2011. Was wondering if it was the LCA's, but they were replaced in 2016. Spoke to my indy mechanic and he reckoned it was rotors, as the judder only occurs at high speed (65k miles).

I have a runout meter thingy from when I was rebuilding my Jeep gearbox. I presume I can use it to check the warp on the rotors? Anyone know what acceptable tolerances are? With the wheel off, how the hell do you turn the rotor? Or.........does braking judder at high speed only sound like good enough indication of warped rotors on its own?

If you are getting judder under braking (esp light at high speed) then double chceck your caliper pins are cleaned and lubed . Also confirm the caliper pins are in the right location. One has a rubber grommet.

I had rotor issues and some brand new raybestos were out of runout spec before I used them (0.005 I believe). My new Zimmermanns were 0.001 and voila no more judder.

 

[Taemian]

I have a weird issue. I ordered factory Brembos through Napa (they were an option here in Canada from Napa) and still had shudder from the front end when applying brakes hard at high speed. I will double check caliper pins.