Suspension Problem, I haven't one! LR3

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roverca

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I parked my 2007 LR3 for about three weeks in the garage and when I came back the suspension fault was lit in red. All special programs off it said. It was working just fine before I parked it. It has about 90k miles on it. I do not hear the compressor kicking on when I start and the suspension is completely down. Im on a budget at the moment so I'm a little afraid to take in the shop. Any idea what this is?
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m_lars

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I parked my 2007 LR3 for about three weeks in the garage and when I came back the suspension fault was lit in red. All special programs off it said. It was working just fine before I parked it. It has about 90k miles on it. I do not hear the compressor kicking on when I start and the suspension is completely down. Im on a budget at the moment so I'm a little afraid to take in the shop. Any idea what this is?View attachment 8281

Do you have tool to read/clear the codes? The compressor and special programs won’t turn back on until that code clears.
 

cj60

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I have a similar situation here, suspension fault was lit in red last night. I already have the Valve block O-ring repair kit for front rear and relief valve and hopefully it’s not that hard. I did repair the compressor pump last year.


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maxx4wd

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based on what you've said so far, I'd first try swapping out the compressor relay - that's a common fault and it's pretty cheap, plus it would disable the compressor. if that doesn't work you'll probably need to read the codes and see what's really going on - it could be a couple things.

From there I'd try to determine if it's a bad compressor...possibly from overworking it due to a leak (external from an air strut or internally from a valve block o-ring). There are a few good youtube vids on how to determine if you might have a leak but that would be secondary to your pump.
 

roverca

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Hmm, I do not. Do you recommend one? I was thinking about getting one anyhow because I have Johnson Rods so I can fit LT275/65/18 BFG KO2's. I wanted to be able to override the computer and put it in "access height" on the freeway or highway for longer trips for a high speed ride.

Sometimes on longer trips after an hour the suspension fault comes on in orange but will clear after restarting the car.

In the mean time I may just take it to the shop to have the mechanic clear it. I'll start there. Was hoping it could be a fuse or something super easy but that was just wish full thinking.
 

roverca

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based on what you've said so far, I'd first try swapping out the compressor relay - that's a common fault and it's pretty cheap, plus it would disable the compressor. if that doesn't work you'll probably need to read the codes and see what's really going on - it could be a couple things.

From there I'd try to determine if it's a bad compressor...possibly from overworking it due to a leak (external from an air strut or internally from a valve block o-ring). There are a few good youtube vids on how to determine if you might have a leak but that would be secondary to your pump.
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Given the age of the car I've been listening for an over working compressor that would indicate a leak every time i have the car on because if there is a leak I'd rather get the leak fixed instead of the leak and the compressor too. Also the car is not completely down in the morning just the front end is down but not completely like it has done this for at least 8 years and what I hear is pretty typical in LR3's and RR Sport. It takes a few days for the car to drop most of the way down. I will have to start with getting codes read today or monday. Thank You!
 

maxx4wd

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Given the age of the car I've been listening for an over working compressor that would indicate a leak every time i have the car on because if there is a leak I'd rather get the leak fixed instead of the leak and the compressor too. Also the car is not completely down in the morning just the front end is down but not completely like it has done this for at least 8 years and what I hear is pretty typical in LR3's and RR Sport. It takes a few days for the car to drop most of the way down. I will have to start with getting codes read today or monday. Thank You!

there is an easy check to determine where the leak is coming from (valve blocks vs. air strut). if you pull your fuse for the air system ( I can't recall off the top of my head what it is) and wait for a day or two and see what corner drops that'll tell you if the leak is in an air strut or if the whole front end drops then the air leak is within the front valve block (leaking back into the tank) or the relief valve block (fore and aft control). Obviously the valve blocks are way easier to swap out if you choose to go new or for like 35 bucks you can get the o-ring kit for all the valve blocks and just swap them out. if it's a strut just make sure to replace them in pairs...I just replaced my fronts with some arnot struts and love them...but I still have to do the o-ring refresh in the valve block soon...mine isn't leaking enough to throw lights but it will soon...

look up RSW lr3 on youtube and he has a very helpful video for testing air leaks in our vehicles...
 

roverca

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I have a similar situation here, suspension fault was lit in red last night. I already have the Valve block O-ring repair kit for front rear and relief valve and hopefully it’s not that hard. I did repair the compressor pump last year.


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is the O-ring repair kit three different repairs front, rear, relief. Would this be why the front end drops overnight?
 

maxx4wd

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the o-ring kit from britishpartsofutah comes with o-rings for front, rear, relief - it could be the problem but it could also be a leak in the actual air strut...you'd have to test to figure out which it is...but yes it's a very common fault when the front end drops overnight...
 

roverca

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there is an easy check to determine where the leak is coming from (valve blocks vs. air strut). if you pull your fuse for the air system ( I can't recall off the top of my head what it is) and wait for a day or two and see what corner drops that'll tell you if the leak is in an air strut or if the whole front end drops then the air leak is within the front valve block (leaking back into the tank) or the relief valve block (fore and aft control). Obviously the valve blocks are way easier to swap out if you choose to go new or for like 35 bucks you can get the o-ring kit for all the valve blocks and just swap them out. if it's a strut just make sure to replace them in pairs...I just replaced my fronts with some arnot struts and love them...but I still have to do the o-ring refresh in the valve block soon...mine isn't leaking enough to throw lights but it will soon...

look up RSW lr3 on youtube and he has a very helpful video for testing air leaks in our vehicles...


Thank you! I will look at that once the car can get back to height. Where is that fuse located?
 

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