Brake problems again. Sticking calipers

[howardduff]

This is great information. I was told the front pads on my LR4 needed to be replaced at my last trip to the dealer. I had purchased pads from NAPA for my LR3 and they seemed as good as original equipment. I went to NAPA for front pads for the LR4. They got them in and I brought them home. Pulled the wheels and the pads from NAPA didn't have the 3/4 in. dia. boss on the mounting plate. Does anyone know if that boss is required. It is only on the outboard pad. I took them back and will buy OEM pads but it would be good to know if anyone has used pads without the boss and how they performed.

 

[rally3]

This is great information. I was told the front pads on my LR4 needed to be replaced at my last trip to the dealer. I had purchased pads from NAPA for my LR3 and they seemed as good as original equipment. I went to NAPA for front pads for the LR4. They got them in and I brought them home. Pulled the wheels and the pads from NAPA didn't have the 3/4 in. dia. boss on the mounting plate. Does anyone know if that boss is required. It is only on the outboard pad. I took them back and will buy OEM pads but it would be good to know if anyone has used pads without the boss and how they performed.

The boss is designed to counteract vibration to reduce brake squeal, and is meant to be on the outer pad and on the top side

 

[ktm525]

boss on mounting plate? Got a pic?

 

[ktm525]

Oh the big weight thingy. Yeah lots of pads don't have them.

 

[ShadowRanger]

I have a slider pin that is completely stuck. It won't spin nor go in and out. I even beat on it with a hammer to try and unfreeze it, with no success. Any ideas how I can get that pin out to replace it? Thank you all.

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[ktm525]

Welcome to hell and the reason to service those pins constantly. 99% of the time the pin that is giving you an issue is the one that has the rubber grommet on it. The rubber swells/degrades and the pin no longers moves, it can be a real bugger to remove as you know. I had success clamping a large set of vice grips on the bolt end of the pin and then hammering on the vice grip outward. The grips allow you to twist and turn the pin. If it doesn't come this way you may need to remove the caliper to the bench for more extreme options. You may need a new or reman caliper. If and when you get the pin out clean out the hole, ne pin, new grommet (or ditch it and live with some noise) and ONLY silicone/ceramic

grease. Do not use

synthetic grease "safe for rubber". Its not.

 

[ShadowRanger]

So I finally got around to handling this. I ordered replacement pins and rubber boots from AutoZone.

In addition to following KTM525's instructions, I also had to resort to taking a torch to it in order to get it to budge at all. But I was careful to shield off the brake lines and all other pertinent hardware before firing it up.

The problem now is that the aftermarket pins I received are longer and seem to have a larger diameter than the ones I pulled off the truck. I then ordered a set from Advance Auto, which came in overnight, and they too are larger (like the ones from AutoZone).

Has anyone else experienced this?

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[ktm525]

What year is your vehicle? There is a front brake vin break on the 2010s but as far as I can tell that is only for pad thickness. I have ordered Carlson caliper pins from Rock Auto with no issue.

Perhaps previous owner downsized your brakes to fit 18" wheels?

 

[Frank8]

What about replacing the entire caliper?

Is that a big expense?

I got my dealer to do it (warranty) and haven’t had a problem with the new ones.

 

[ktm525]

They replaced a caliper because the pins were frozen?