Cv boot

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abeachb73

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so I accidentally hit my cv boot when I changed my hub and put a hole in it. I have grease flying everywhere.
My question is can I replace the boot without taking the front axle out of transfercase? If so what do I have to remove to be able to remove the outer shaft? 2011 lr4 front drivers axle. Please help with some info. Thank you.
 

scott schmerge

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so I accidentally hit my cv boot when I changed my hub and put a hole in it. I have grease flying everywhere.
My question is can I replace the boot without taking the front axle out of transfercase? If so what do I have to remove to be able to remove the outer shaft? 2011 lr4 front drivers axle. Please help with some info. Thank you.

Sounds like a job for flex seal! ;-)
 

scott schmerge

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In all seriousness, the cv boot is very difficult to replace without taking the entire 1/2 shaft apart. You’re probably better off replacing the 1/2 shaft. I’ve done the replacement-it’s not a bad job.

Depending on the tear (if it’s just a hole) you may attempt a repair on the cv boot.
 

scott schmerge

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I’m a little worried about the axle coming out of the transfercase, I have read a lot about ppl having a hard time.

It’s actually pretty easy to do. I’ve heard of a couple folks putting tension on it with a strap then using a pry bar. All accounts are pretty good with that approach.

I took a pair of vice grips and a slide hammer and separated the boot from the transfer case side of the axle. With two whacks it was out.

There’s another thread on here that can give insights.
 

RoverGhost

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I have brand new half shafts that I bought for my RRS but it was totaled by a logging truck. They are the same and would fit right in. PM me if you are interested.
 

maxx4wd

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If it's just a small hole you can actually use 3M 5200 Marine Sealant ($15 at Home Depot / Lowes probably cheaper on Amazon) on it - I did this exact same thing on my rear half shaft 3 years ago and I've had zero problems with the repair. Clean the area really good - scuff the boot and apply liberally - there is one catch though - the 3M sealant takes 7 days to dry (yes you read that correctly) but I've put 40k miles on my repair - on and off road - through water crossings - pulling campers - etc and have never had a problem with the leak again...well worth the dry time. Also I think they've reformulated it for a quick dry now too but I'm only reporting on what I've used personally...I'll try to find a picture but it's been some time.

Otherwise I'd just pull the half shaft and replace them - refresh all the joints while your at it...that's what I did with my fronts.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXZVnSagCkJ/

CVD Boot Repair 1.jpg
 

Grumpy

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Old school: 1950 Dodge. Rear axle removal: hook a chain around the axle end, leave some slack, stand back as you swing the chain to pull the axle, careful it doesn't land on your foot.
I've used this on Volvo V70R front shafts, Mercedes E320 front, GL450 front and Dodge 2500 front after replacing the nut to protect threads and give a grip.
 

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