Big LR4 issue, cut losses and sell vs fix?

[SwampMonster]

SwampMonster, smart move to get second opinion. Your question on what can you expect to get out of the truck after the "fix"? I've got 226,000 miles on my 2010 LR4, so maybe another 110,000 miles for you too.

Update, got quotes from local dealer and another independent shop, both were higher, but all agreed with the diagnosis. Lead tech at dealer was helpful in giving me comfort that this is a relatively common issue in high mileage LR4s and once fixed should be no issue with it moving forward.

Perhaps I am foolish, but I have decided to invest a bit more into the vehicle in hopes of extending its life, and am having the water pump, thermostat, crossover pipe and lines changed, as well as new spark plugs and valve cover gaskets (I had notes a small bit of oil leakage in past).

 

[PaulLR3]

Not to pile onto your list, but check to see if oil leaking out of the passenger side valve cover gasket was dripping into the alternator. Mine was and I replaced the alternator while everything else was apart. (I had the exact same list of items done at the same time)

 

[Michael Gain]

Also, replace the passenger valve cover. Not just the gasket. Its part number LR109354 and comes with the gaskets and bolts. That way you won't be replacing it in the future when the pcv fails.

Update, got quotes from local dealer and another independent shop, both were higher, but all agreed with the diagnosis. Lead tech at dealer was helpful in giving me comfort that this is a relatively common issue in high mileage LR4s and once fixed should be no issue with it moving forward.

Perhaps I am foolish, but I have decided to invest a bit more into the vehicle in hopes of extending its life, and am having the water pump, thermostat, crossover pipe and lines changed, as well as new spark plugs and valve cover gaskets (I had notes a small bit of oil leakage in past).

 

[gsxr]

A few comments:

-They all have the required stuff, sure. But they don't all have the same stuff.

This. ^^^

Just because all gas stations in a given area get fuel from the same storage tanks at the distributor, DOES NOT mean they all have the same stuff. Each brand has a unique additive package. You might as well claim that all engine oil is the same too. Not using gasoline that is at a minimum TopTier licensed, is penny-wise and pound-foolish. <dons flame suit>

Should this excellent conversation move to a new thread?

I've asked the same on other threads which were totally derailed, but it appears nobody actively manages or moderates this forum. I'm an admin on a Mercedes forum and routinely fix stupid things like this, splitting off side discussions into separate threads, and combining multiple threads on the same topic, to keep the forum organized. Seems that here, nobody cares. Which is a shame.

 

[Troy A]

I've asked the same on other threads which were totally derailed, but it appears nobody actively manages or moderates this forum. I'm an admin on a Mercedes forum and routinely fix stupid things like this, splitting off side discussions into separate threads, and combining multiple threads on the same topic, to keep the forum organized. Seems that here, nobody cares. Which is a shame.

For better and worse, the admin touch on these forums IS very light. Sometimes that can also be a good thing. I nominate you for moderator.


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[John Robison]

You have described several problems, which would not happen at once.
- Vacuum pump failed and caused the pump chain to jump out of time
- High pressure pump failed and sent metal shavings into injectors
- Second high pressure pump failed and sent metal into injectors

I have to say, it's a stretch that all these things happened at once on your engine. I have seen them happen individually, but there is no relation between one and the other. Often the vacuum pumps fail, the chain skips a tooth and you get persistent high pressure pump codes that are not resolved by pump replacement. Then I've seen people go into the injectors when in fact the pumps were not the problem at all, it was the timing.

If the pumps have truly both failed and sent metal into the injectors I would look at whether there is a basis for an insurance claim over contaminated fuel. What else would cause failure of both pumps?

However . . . if the pump timing is ******** because the vacuum pump caused the chain to skip, you can't tell if there is a pump problem or not. What do they say about that ?

My concern is that this may be a "cover all the bases guess" diagnosis, and it may be more than is really needed. I would ask for photographic evidence of metal on ALL injectors, and a photo of the timing tool in the calcium pump slot to tell if the engine is timed right or not. If the engine is out of time you cannot tell if the pumps are good or not.

In the final analysis, I am skeptical of the proposed scope of damage but anything is possible.

 

[macbright]

Check in your area (I see you are listed in your profile in US) for a Land Rover Only or Euro Specialist. In my Area (Nashville, TN) there are Two Excellent choices other than the LR Dealers. Recently I had the Transfer Case and Auxiliary Motor that operates it "Go Out" $10600. at Land Rover Service and $4600, with the local LR Guru whom I use for any issue that pops up, a marked difference, same OEM parts and remanufactured Transfer case. Yes Mine is a LR3 SE, fixing is still far cheaper than replacing the Truck with something similar. (Which doesn't do what it can do). If I replace it, I end up with a used LR anything or any brand, there's always is the unknown. Welcome to the Landy Community!

 

[Kurt van]

Sorry guy's these trucks are just a heap of **** without steam..if it can fail it will.also cost arm and both legs to fix..burn it and run...runnnn

 

[dlonesty]

I have 2011 LR 4 HSE Lux with 178k. I have put money into my truck and will continue to do so. At any cost, the truck is still worth it. $7k paid out over a year is $600ish....sill cheap for great truck.
I also get AAA premium for 200 mile towing radius and trip interruption insurance.
I go to the dealer and pay more, but if part fans that they have fixed within 12/12000 it will be replaced at any dealer shop. Worth it to me

 

[ktm525]

The towing insurance is a good idea. I don't mind paying some dollars for upkeep because my 2010 was paid off on day 1 but I think the running costs begin to bite when there is a repair bill and a monthly payment. The LR4 is a great vehicle but she is high maintenance. Including EVERYTHING (tires etc) it runs $0.09/km CDN or $0.11/mile to keep on the road in good shape. My Honda Ridgeline of similar mileage/vintage is $0.03/km CDN or $0.04/mile US. Just the way these Rovers roll...