jlglr4
Full Access Member
Also came across this post ultimately reporting a loose connector under the driver seat caused similar issue: https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr3-28/tail-gate-release-no-power-96532/page2/
Rear hatch still stuck!!
- Thread starter jlach993
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
jlach993
Full Access Member
So i checked under both front seats and no wires were disconnected or looked out of the ordinary. I changed the actuator and the latch mechanism with oem parts from atlantic british. The upper hatch still would not open. Even when pressing the key fob remote...no success. Theres no sound and the actuator is not moving. The rear hatch however works perfectly fine. The unlatches and works as normal. Any one have any idea what this could be?
jlglr4
Full Access Member
So, you replaced the actual switch (in the upper tailgate handle, correct? And you’ve replaced the actuator, which is working with the lower tailgate switch. If it were me, I’d do the following:
(1) Confirm valet mode is off.
(2) Confirm that license plate lamp is working, and maybe rear wiper (i.e., you’ve got some power going back there).
(3) Go back in and start tracing the upper tailgate switch back, starting with the electrical harness connector that the switch plugs into - check for voltage to the switch, look for corrosion in that connector, look for any loose ground wires.
I pulled what I think are the correct wiring diagram sheets for this switch, although I’m not very good with these diagrams. This is probably from a 2011 model - can’t remember what model you have.
(1) Confirm valet mode is off.
(2) Confirm that license plate lamp is working, and maybe rear wiper (i.e., you’ve got some power going back there).
(3) Go back in and start tracing the upper tailgate switch back, starting with the electrical harness connector that the switch plugs into - check for voltage to the switch, look for corrosion in that connector, look for any loose ground wires.
I pulled what I think are the correct wiring diagram sheets for this switch, although I’m not very good with these diagrams. This is probably from a 2011 model - can’t remember what model you have.
cperez
Full Access Member
Keep in mind that the lower dropgate has two separate actuators that are different than the one that releases the top liftgate. I’m not 100% sure how their power is routed and/or shared by the liftgate actuator. The fact that the lower gate is working properly may not tell you much at all.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
Right, I keep getting that messed up in my responses. That bottom switch button (in the lower tailgate) only controls the lower tailgate actuator. The upper tailgate switch (in the upper tailgate) controls the upper tailgate actuator (which resides in the lower tailgate).
Looking back at that circuit diagram, the actuators appear to be wired for power separately, but seem to share a common ground point. The switches send a voltage back to the BCM, which then relays a voltage back to the respective actuators in the lower tailgate. So, the failure could be in the wiring to the switch or the wiring to the actuator.
But, the fact that the keyfob doesn’t work suggests that maybe the fault is in the wiring to the actuator rather than the wiring to the switch, correct? I think the keyfob communicates directly to the BCM (or at least through a different route), bypassing any fault that would be in the switch side of the circuit.
Looking back at that circuit diagram, the actuators appear to be wired for power separately, but seem to share a common ground point. The switches send a voltage back to the BCM, which then relays a voltage back to the respective actuators in the lower tailgate. So, the failure could be in the wiring to the switch or the wiring to the actuator.
But, the fact that the keyfob doesn’t work suggests that maybe the fault is in the wiring to the actuator rather than the wiring to the switch, correct? I think the keyfob communicates directly to the BCM (or at least through a different route), bypassing any fault that would be in the switch side of the circuit.
Michael Gain
Full Access Member
Yes, the key fob method would rule out a defective switch and point you towards the actuator. Since you just replaced it, (like the others stated) I would pull the access panel and trace the wiring from the actuator connector to where it disappears into the loom.
Also, confirm that the license plate lamp illuminates. It seems to run along the same circuit.
I know it's frustrating, but have faith that you'll figure it out
Also, confirm that the license plate lamp illuminates. It seems to run along the same circuit.
I know it's frustrating, but have faith that you'll figure it out
jlach993
Full Access Member
Thanks for all the input guys....since the key fob doesn’t make it work as well i do believe it’s definitely a wiring issue from the actuator to the loom that disappears into the bottom of the tailgate into the cabin of the truck. Ill investigate further tomorrow and let you guys know.
jlach993
Full Access Member
So everyone i’m completely furious right now. I’ve traced all wiring and found everything to be intact. I checked the passenger fuse box and made sure the fuse was okay. I swapped in a new one just in case. The actuator for the rear hatch is not powering at all. I even bought another actuator....this time being OEM and still no success. The exterior switch has power and works and alerts me the tailgate is open upon pressing. The keyfob also alerts me that the tailgate is open. I checked under the seats for any loose connections. I checked for BCM codes relating to the tailgate. I really have no idea what the hell is going on with this tailgate....i refuse to take it to those ******* (dealership) at glen cove in long island...........but i just might 
jlglr4
Full Access Member
That’s frustrating. I too hate throwing in the towel and going to a dealer, especially after putting in so much effort.
Hoping someone else can check my theory below to see if it makes sense:
Looking back at the circuit diagram, if the upper switch has power and is tripping the tailgate ajar circuit, looks like there is only two possibilities for the actuator not firing, both along line “M” in the circuit diagram: (1) There appears to be a splice junction (SJ255S - at least I’m guessing that’s what it is) on the ground side of the actuator - the actuator motor, door ajar circuit, and lower door switch all seem to join at that splice joint and then share a common ground after that point. Since the door ajar circuit and lower tailgate switch are working, the ground after the splice must be in tact. So maybe just that one leg from the actuator to the splice joint has come loose. The ground connection appears to be someplace in that tailgate area, so the splice must be back there too. (2) The wiring from the BCM to the actuator motor. Nothing else appears to be on that leg, and there is only a single connector between the actuator and the BCM. This connector is C3007/C3008 below the drivers seat. It’s shown “Detail E” of the connector quick reference that I posted earlier.
Can you check for a 12V pulse at the actuator harness when you press the upper tailgate switch using a known good ground? If you are getting voltage, then the problem must be ground side. If no voltage, then the problem should be on the wiring from the BCM. Or maybe test for continuity between the ground pin on the harness and a known good ground (or the actual ground connection for the harness C2700S-1 if you can access).
If no voltage to the harness, then the same type of test at that underseat connection.
Just brainstorming on the fly here. Hope it helps, and maybe others have better ideas.
Hoping someone else can check my theory below to see if it makes sense:
Looking back at the circuit diagram, if the upper switch has power and is tripping the tailgate ajar circuit, looks like there is only two possibilities for the actuator not firing, both along line “M” in the circuit diagram: (1) There appears to be a splice junction (SJ255S - at least I’m guessing that’s what it is) on the ground side of the actuator - the actuator motor, door ajar circuit, and lower door switch all seem to join at that splice joint and then share a common ground after that point. Since the door ajar circuit and lower tailgate switch are working, the ground after the splice must be in tact. So maybe just that one leg from the actuator to the splice joint has come loose. The ground connection appears to be someplace in that tailgate area, so the splice must be back there too. (2) The wiring from the BCM to the actuator motor. Nothing else appears to be on that leg, and there is only a single connector between the actuator and the BCM. This connector is C3007/C3008 below the drivers seat. It’s shown “Detail E” of the connector quick reference that I posted earlier.
Can you check for a 12V pulse at the actuator harness when you press the upper tailgate switch using a known good ground? If you are getting voltage, then the problem must be ground side. If no voltage, then the problem should be on the wiring from the BCM. Or maybe test for continuity between the ground pin on the harness and a known good ground (or the actual ground connection for the harness C2700S-1 if you can access).
If no voltage to the harness, then the same type of test at that underseat connection.
Just brainstorming on the fly here. Hope it helps, and maybe others have better ideas.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
Marked up wiring diagrams to go with above comments.
