Another LR4 Saved from Coolant Death

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jlglr4

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I started getting prices for these SCV6 parts. My Portland, OR dealer is around twice what the Merriam LR parts web site quotes! So that’s a great tip already.

These two parts, however, are flagged on the web site as not compatible with the 2016 HSE.

Yeah, says that on my dealers website too. Back when I was doing this job, I called the parts counter and had them look it up to be sure, then ordered on the website. If you look at the fitment for the parts, it should show the V6 supercharged motor from 2016 onward, just not the LR4. Call a dealer’s parts counter to put your mind at ease.

Also - the part shows the little plug and screw in the picture, but it doesn’t actually come with these items. Buy a new cap - you’ll have to ask the dealer for the part number. Also, the original screw that is holding the front crossover is too long for the new crossover piece. You’ll need a shorter one. I didn’t notice until I was reassembling, so I just swapped it for a screw in the bracket at the rear of the supercharger where the longer screw would fit without damaging anything.
 

gsxr

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These two parts, however, are flagged on the web site as not compatible with the 2016 HSE.
Don't trust the web site compatibility information. It may or may not be accurate. Other than contacting a dealer to confirm fitment, you can use Microcat, which is the dealer part lookup tool (not user friendly, bought mine off eBay). Not sure if there is an online version available. You can also see if Merriam can confirm the part numbers are correct before they bill/ship your order.



Damn mechanic didn't replace two of my coolant lines (the ones that go to the heater core) even though I supplied him with everything... claimed they looked OK... This is why I usually do everything myself.
This is one of many reasons why I do almost everything myself. I also got tired of shops working quickly but not doing a great job (time is money to them, they're almost always in a rush). Bummer they didn't do the rear.

:(
 

SantaAna7

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Thanks to everyone posting this great info. I don't drive my MY13 v8 much but considering doing all this maintenance now @ 12k miles. Do you think it's too early with no problems knock on wood?

For DIYers - are you just using service manuals, YT or posts somewhere for the howto?

Should any other parts be replaced once you're doing all this?
 

gsxr

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For DIYers - are you just using service manuals, YT or posts somewhere for the howto?
Use the factory service manual (~270MB PDF file) as the primary guide, and anything else (forums, YouTube, etc) second.
 

djkaosone

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Thanks to everyone posting this great info. I don't drive my MY13 v8 much but considering doing all this maintenance now @ 12k miles. Do you think it's too early with no problems knock on wood?

Unfortunately, these parts are plastic and deteriorate with age rather than mileage. In this instance, I would preemptively change them out even though you have ridiculously low mileage, congrats.

Like the OP said, this happened out of nowhere and far from anywhere. I would also suggest completely flushing out oem oat coolant (until clear) and replacing it with dexcool. Dexcool can be found everywhere like a desolate 7/11 out in the middle of nowhere. I've been running dexcool for the past 3 years with zero issues. You just need to point this out if you service it at any dealership or shop. I diy everything after my warranty ran out, so I don't have to worry about anyone mixing the coolant.
 

gsxr

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While I would use DexCool in a pinch, the JLR antifreeze is not particularly expensive, and for a flush & refill I'd use the factory stuff. Are the two identical? I don't know, but for a few bucks difference, I don't want to find out.

FCP Euro and RME both sell it online if you don't have a dealer nearby. It was cheaper at my dealer:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-engine-coolant-antifreeze-genuine-rover-rov-lrn2279

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/LRN2279-MFG1250.aspx


To avoid refill bleeding hassles you may want to invest in a vacuum fill tool (may require air compressor).
 

16FujiDisco

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67k on the clock for mine; looks like I'm just in time. Also did the rear pipe (still looked good), pcv valve (getting the lean code), water pump and thermostat

IMAG1635.jpg
 
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jjvd21

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Thank you for the replies and information. I’m going to order the parts and put them in as a preventative measure.
 

jjvd21

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I just spoke to my dealer to confirm parts and obtain a quote, updated information in CAPS below. These parts are for my 2016 D4 SCV6 so confirm for your own application. I was quoted 14 hours in labor for the job! Does this sound correct?


LR090630 - Redesigned “water manifold” part of front crossover
LR092992 - Redesigned “water pipe” (Y-pipe) part of front crossover that goes into the block
LR122710 - Manifold - Heater (Rear crossover pipe)
LR097165 - Water pump assembly
LR028136 - Oil cooler tube (goes on the back of water pump)
NEW THERMOSTAT KIT: LR117568
LR041681 (x2) - Intake manifold gaskets (need two of these) LR041680
DRAIN PLUG FOR FRONT CROSSOVER: LR011038
LR050855.- Lower radiator hose (includes T-stat to hose adapter and coolant temp sensor)
LR033994 - Outlet tube
LR049990 - Inlet tube small tube PARTS SAYING THAT MAY NOT NEED THIS IF LR045239 IS INSTALLED
SUPERCHARGER DRIVE BELT - LR011327
LR051263 - Serpentine belt
TUBE BEHIND WATER PUMP SEAL LR030593
 

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