Had a failure in the coolant system with no warning (no lights, temp spike, etc.). Just started smoking and shut it off. Looks like we might have dodged the worst case scenario as heads and block look tight on first inspection. Looks like the coolant outlet pipe failed and dumped everything pretty quickly. Replacing that and also replacing the water pump and thermostat (again.) For reference ours has had many of the small leaks fixed in the past including crossover, y pipe, pretty much everything, or at least I thought. Any opinions if we should do any other service while it is all opened up? We have a '15 at ~75k miles and want to keep her for a long time to come.
Coolant pipe failure (SCV6)
- Thread starter colorover
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
I’m curious what failed here. The coolant outlet pipe is the front crossover (at least to my knowledge), but your post says the crossover and y-pipe (also part of the front crossover) were already changed. Did they fail again? Or maybe this is a different pipe that failed - like radiator outlet.
As for additional repairs, I would make sure front and rear crossover (heater manifold) pipes have been changed. I probably would not do thermostat or water pump again if they’ve been changed once already. You could have your PCV diaphragms replaced if you haven’t yet. You could check on the supercharger coupler, but if you’re doing this at the dealer, they’ll want to replace the whole snout - coupler is just a cheap part that wears out inside the snout.
As for additional repairs, I would make sure front and rear crossover (heater manifold) pipes have been changed. I probably would not do thermostat or water pump again if they’ve been changed once already. You could have your PCV diaphragms replaced if you haven’t yet. You could check on the supercharger coupler, but if you’re doing this at the dealer, they’ll want to replace the whole snout - coupler is just a cheap part that wears out inside the snout.
Stuart Barnes
Full Access Member
I’ll also add, that if you’re lifting the supercharger then change the oil as it’s much easier when it’s out. Mine had about 40% remaining after 67k and smelled terrible.
AdventureTim
Full Access Member
I feel like I'm on borrowed time with my LR4 ('15, ~70k). I've mentioned the cross over pipe failure to my dealer, but pre-emptive fixes aren't covered under warranty so it's just a delicate waiting game until it fails before I can take it in and have it addressed (or do it on my own dime).
jlglr4
Full Access Member
@AdventureTim : You could drive it down there to the dealer and give it a little whack with a mallet just before you go to the service desk.
But, seriously, this is why I didn’t go for an extended warranty. Too tempting to put off a repair trying to get that coverage. In the meantime, you’re worrying about whether that coolant light will go off in time if it breaks loose, or worrying about those off-road recovery services bending you over when it breaks down in the backcountry. I’d just do it myself (and others might find some way to hurry it along).
But, seriously, this is why I didn’t go for an extended warranty. Too tempting to put off a repair trying to get that coverage. In the meantime, you’re worrying about whether that coolant light will go off in time if it breaks loose, or worrying about those off-road recovery services bending you over when it breaks down in the backcountry. I’d just do it myself (and others might find some way to hurry it along).
Last edited:
Boy, so much depends on what happened between when the coolant was lost and when you shut down the engine, it is really hard to say. There is not really any harm I can see in trying to fix the immediate problem, correctly refill with coolant, and try to run it. If correcting the immediate problem means fixing one of the difficult-to-access plastic crossovers, then look up the excellent writeups @Stuart Barnes and others have done here on what all else to do as part of that preventive maintenance. If the immediate problem is one of the radiator hoses or something easier to access, it might pay to see if it runs well or has warped a head first, then figure out where to go.
To the OP: Not sure you can determine block and heads are ok because “everything looks tight”. I’d run a compression test and leak down to start
I am at 70ish K and replacing all pipes belts, WP, Therm and all hoses in addition to SC coupler and SC oil over the next few weeks. Told my wife no more driving until this is done. We just got back from round trip SC-MA with no issues. I don’t want to push it any longer.
I am at 70ish K and replacing all pipes belts, WP, Therm and all hoses in addition to SC coupler and SC oil over the next few weeks. Told my wife no more driving until this is done. We just got back from round trip SC-MA with no issues. I don’t want to push it any longer.
What he said. I was assuming this was PART of "first inspection."
The first inspection should be a compression test before you dump money in it replacing parts, then I’d do a leak down. You cannot tell if a head/block is warped by looking at it unless it was totally cooked and even then you may not find a external leak as it still may be internal. I really hope you are ok, just be sure that’s all. We are all in this together to help each other out.
Stuart Barnes
Full Access Member
Adventure tim, If some person really wanted to pour a bit of coolant into the valley and take it in saying they’re losing coolant, then that may get the dealer to address it.
Not that I would condone such behavior…
Not that I would condone such behavior…
