[QUOTE="Every now-and-then you'll come across a expert like beemer who's willing to take the time to share the best inside knowledge.
here's some good advise. stop running the 4.6 immediately to improve the possibility of the original block to be re-sleeved using the top-hat cylinder technology.[/QUOTE]"
Mike, i'm not an "expert", just a engine nut and gear head to the max. Always learning besides finding ways of taking things a step further than the basic factory stock engine.
Fueling LR's for the USA already too lean, a death wish on these engines. Ignition advance set by factory is a general all around ballpark timing to cover all bases due to different octane, temperatures and altitudes these LR's will encounter. Every engine of the same displacement will respond differently to different drivers and how they drive. Lead foot comes to mind.
It's all in the details working on engines as several little details adds up to one bigger oveall improvement in engine operation.
Several years ago I was chastised for "hot rodding a LR as they are suppose to slow but capable vehicles". Yeah right a Hugo blowing me away. The 4.6 transplant with my little tricks and details improving how it runs. Fast forward to app 2015 era reading the LR forum about a handful of 5.7 litre 350 chevy transplants. That's a sin that I would never do to my D1.
BTW, I removed the air box snorkel which had an inlet diameter smaller than my ******, yup that small that's sucking in hot under the hood air temps.
Removed the snorkel then hose clamped to the short ****** on air box two short 3" diameter 45* rubber hose tubes off an early Ford 4 cylinder engine's intake tract. Two 45's with a short piece of 3" exhaust tubing coupling them together for a perfect offset air duct ending up behind the left headlight through the radiator support hole for access to the headlight socket. Cold ram air protected by the solid grill area around this intake feeding the intake from the slotted grill feeding the radiator. No rain water problems entering the intake. With this modification vs factory snorkel there's a difference in performance you can feel by the "Butt-O-Meter.
With "superroco" above reply, why not pick up a used 4.0 block (more common than a 4.6) and have it modified to top flange. Install your 4.6 crank and rods. A sure bet to install a true double row timing chain and gear set plus check and install rocker shaft stand shims for proper the proper lifter preload.
Install the cam with 3* to 4* advanced position allowing for timing chain stretch as the miles add up over the years. This also giving you slightly lower rpm torque numbers. .....~~=o&o>.....
here's some good advise. stop running the 4.6 immediately to improve the possibility of the original block to be re-sleeved using the top-hat cylinder technology.[/QUOTE]"
Mike, i'm not an "expert", just a engine nut and gear head to the max. Always learning besides finding ways of taking things a step further than the basic factory stock engine.
Fueling LR's for the USA already too lean, a death wish on these engines. Ignition advance set by factory is a general all around ballpark timing to cover all bases due to different octane, temperatures and altitudes these LR's will encounter. Every engine of the same displacement will respond differently to different drivers and how they drive. Lead foot comes to mind.
It's all in the details working on engines as several little details adds up to one bigger oveall improvement in engine operation.
Several years ago I was chastised for "hot rodding a LR as they are suppose to slow but capable vehicles". Yeah right a Hugo blowing me away. The 4.6 transplant with my little tricks and details improving how it runs. Fast forward to app 2015 era reading the LR forum about a handful of 5.7 litre 350 chevy transplants. That's a sin that I would never do to my D1.
BTW, I removed the air box snorkel which had an inlet diameter smaller than my ******, yup that small that's sucking in hot under the hood air temps.
Removed the snorkel then hose clamped to the short ****** on air box two short 3" diameter 45* rubber hose tubes off an early Ford 4 cylinder engine's intake tract. Two 45's with a short piece of 3" exhaust tubing coupling them together for a perfect offset air duct ending up behind the left headlight through the radiator support hole for access to the headlight socket. Cold ram air protected by the solid grill area around this intake feeding the intake from the slotted grill feeding the radiator. No rain water problems entering the intake. With this modification vs factory snorkel there's a difference in performance you can feel by the "Butt-O-Meter.
With "superroco" above reply, why not pick up a used 4.0 block (more common than a 4.6) and have it modified to top flange. Install your 4.6 crank and rods. A sure bet to install a true double row timing chain and gear set plus check and install rocker shaft stand shims for proper the proper lifter preload.
Install the cam with 3* to 4* advanced position allowing for timing chain stretch as the miles add up over the years. This also giving you slightly lower rpm torque numbers. .....~~=o&o>.....
Last edited:
