Air Suspension

SNOOPY · Jun 1, 2020

Hey Folks,
I am having a debate with a colleague about my LR4. We are going back and forth regarding a suspension off switch on my 2012 LR4 HSE V8.

I have never seen or located a switch that will shut down the suspension for maintenance...

WHO IS RIGHT??

Thanks

Nechaken · Jun 1, 2020

I don't believe there is a button that does this; however, I believe people either pull the EAS fuse or if it is just a short thing (like swapping wheels) will leave a door open which prevents the car from attempting to level.

Rkymtnman · Jun 1, 2020

Always though you had to do that with a tool such as Gap Diagnostics. If there is one, I have never found it.

mbw · Jun 2, 2020

You can put the EAS into build mode with an IID tool which kinda locks out the system, but its not that useful. EAS has 3 fuses and a relay for the compressor.

avslash · Jun 2, 2020

Yep, Build Mode/Transport Mode/Tight Tolerance Mode, whatever you want to call it. No manual switch, though.

There is that mystery dangling pigtail near the battery harness, though. Anybody know what that is used for pre-delivery?

djkaosone · Jun 9, 2020

If you truly want to disable EAS, pull fuse F3 in the engine bay. This will completely cut off power to the EAS.

avslash said:
There is that mystery dangling pigtail near the battery harness, though. Anybody know what that is used for pre-delivery?

From what I was told is there is/was a diode of a module that plugs in there prior to delivery to stop the ecu(s) from monitoring the battery. After the ecu learns the "new" battery whether or not the module is still plugged in, it does nothing to keep the battery in tip top shape. I still have mine and my charging system sucks. Firestone just told me that my 6 month old battery is starting to die (again). This is my 4th time in 3 years, and the new oem alternator is less than 2 years old.

avslash · Jun 9, 2020

djkaosone said:
If you truly want to disable EAS, pull fuse F3 in the engine bay. This will completely cut off power to the EAS.

From what I was told is there is/was a diode of a module that plugs in there prior to delivery to stop the ecu(s) from monitoring the battery. After the ecu learns the "new" battery whether or not the module is still plugged in, it does nothing to keep the battery in tip top shape. I still have mine and my charging system sucks. Firestone just told me that my 6 month old battery is starting to die (again). This is my 4th time in 3 years, and the new oem alternator is less than 2 years old.

Couldn't agree more. The charging system is my single largest disappointment on mine.

Tried numerous workarounds and nothing but occasionally pulling the sensor has worked without illuminating a be light.

What sucks is that monitoring function is purportedly disabled on the factory armored versions of these, so it is quite likely easily done with the correct programming interface.

jlach993 · Jun 9, 2020

avslash said:
Yep, Build Mode/Transport Mode/Tight Tolerance Mode, whatever you want to call it. No manual switch, though.

There is that mystery dangling pigtail near the battery harness, though. Anybody know what that is used for pre-delivery?

It was mentioned here on the forum a while ago as to what that unplugged harness actually was. The jist of it is that the rovers were built in England and sometimes spent weeks/months getting to the dealerships here in the US. That harness was plugged into something pre delivery in order to not drain the battery or something like that. Maybe i’m wrong but i’m 100% sure it has to do with the pre delivery of the vehicles to their dealers.

djkaosone · Jun 9, 2020

avslash said:
Tried numerous workarounds and nothing but occasionally pulling the sensor has worked without illuminating a be light.

I had a discussion with my Electrical Engineer friend and we both agreed that a simple time delayed relay can be inserted between the BMS connector on the ground terminal to interrupt the signal to "reset" the BMS and forces the system to relearn each time the truck starts.

Another alternative is to add a diode to provide a specific ohm or resistance reading to the ECU to simulate a charging state. However, it'll take some time testing different diodes or load resistance to get the correct one. Which I'm too lazy to do.

avslash · Jun 9, 2020

djkaosone said:
I had a discussion with my Electrical Engineer friend and we both agreed that a simple time delayed relay can be inserted between the BMS connector on the ground terminal to interrupt the signal to "reset" the BMS and forces the system to relearn each time the truck starts.

Another alternative is to add a diode to provide a specific ohm or resistance reading to the ECU to simulate a charging state. However, it'll take some time testing different diodes or load resistance to get the correct one. Which I'm too lazy to do.

Hmmm, hadn't thought of a relay.

Will have to wait a bit though as mine just started puking coolant on the driveway again. 40,000M since the last water pump, so that is the prime suspect. About to pull the manifold to do both crossovers, blast the valves and replace the waterpump and belts.

On a positive note, Rock Auto has a listing for an aluminum waterpump to oil cooler pipe, so I'm going to give that a try on this go-round. Going to try a Korean manufactured GMB waterpump, as well. Probably hard to do any worse than the OEM.

Air Suspension

SNOOPY

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Nechaken

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Rkymtnman

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mbw

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avslash

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djkaosone

'11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8

avslash

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jlach993

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djkaosone

'11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8

avslash

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