LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

I'm interested...

Well...

This has quite literally been in work for 2.5 years, but finally...

For your insomnia needs...

Here is my take on the transmission pan project on the 6 speed.

I hope you find it useful!

Awesome - congratulations, you must have gotten your laptop resolved as well

I'm in the middle of the job right now. All good so far (captured ~5.5 quarts). What I am having an annoying time with is cleaning the surface of the housing. Even full-strength CRC on a towel is not loosening it. I've used the scrubbing side of the blue 3M scrubbing sponge and nothing.

What did you guys use? I'm trying to be very careful with the aluminum.

Well, I am convinced that what I am seeing is not dirt and gunk, but rather some kind of pitting. It feels squeaky-clean when I run my finger by it. So either that thing gets milled down (not happening), or I just go with it. I am tempted to apply sealant, but honestly, I will just give it a shot with the lubelocker gasket and see.

I could use a film of this: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...6d1VdxyvZ-OAKO25zWHlo_1xmEiRxiWNCZXxhhM1oca3M

Thoughts?

Looks like pitting or corrosion of some sort. I'd try lightly scuffing with a Scotch-Brite pad for grins, but if it's smooth, don't worry about it. The LubeLocker gasket should be installed dry, IIRC?

DO NOT use RTV, it will be miserable to remove in the future. If you must apply something, use Hylomar, which is non-hardening.

I would some 3000 grit Emory cloth.
Lube Locker gasket is awesome and will be highly forgiving of surface imperfections.

Thanks guys. My plan was not to apply the RTV (silicone RTV, FWIW) as a gasket, but rather apply and scrape smooth with a plastic scraper so as to only fill the minute cavities, effectively re-smoothing the surface.

I'd just clean it with alcohol, it won't leak there if you are using a gasket since the gaskets job is to fill imperfections in the metal.

As an aside, I have always used Permatex and a gasket for pans, but it sounds like not the right way and I'm not suggesting it unless it leaks with just the gasket. Its important to use the right amount, the right kind and to let it cure. Also there is a bolt tightening pattern to use and proper torque specs so the pan doesn't warp.

Well, it's done. In summary, I found draining and pan removal to be super easy. I found I did have to chase those threads and that was a PITA. Same for fitting the screws and tightening them. Filling was honestly not too bad other than it took 20 minutes for the fluid to warm up. Maybe it's the lift and good tools, but I managed to avoid burns well. I thought it shifted well before, but it is silky-smooth now. Fluid was darkish but with a strong green tint still visible (13 years and 65k miles). I drained ~5.25 and put in close to that, though perhaps a bit under. I am now hoping for no leaks but none were visible after a short drive last night. Will keep monitoring. I hope the Lubelocker gasket does the job. Thanks to everyone's past experiences which helped a lot.

For me, assuming no leaks, this will be the first and last change since we struggle to put even 5k miles/year on this car and we are probably not keeping it beyond another 5 years or so.