'05 LR3 Passenger side wet floor.

Discussion in 'LR3' started by Risingstartrans, Jan 1, 2012.

  1. Risingstartrans

    Risingstartrans New Member

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    I have my LR3 for about 4 years now. All the time we have wet floor issues, all 4 years. When it was on the warranty, dealer looked in to it 3 times, and they claim that they fix it, Well, in about a week, its wet again... NOW, MY remote starter start to have issues. Off and ON. I read about corroded wires, going to look in to it tomorrow, but....

    MY POINT IS..... I am submitting a formal letter to LR company as of unsolved complain about the wet floor, They say that it is drainage problem, but, I see lots of complains due to the exact issue. One of the tech that I know at LR dealer mentioned, Air intake vent on the passenger side. Maybe it has something to do with it. Didn't look into it yet...

    Dont get me wrong guys, I own ONLY LR and RR all my adult life. I am proud and happy with every LR I had. LWB, Defender, Disco and now LR3.

    Alex.
     
  2. tlt

    tlt Full Access Member

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    Sorry for your difficulties. Often dealers are only particularly specialized at extracting your cash these days.

    It sounds like, there are three possibilities in the following order of likeliness.

    1. Roof drains (2) plugged, kinked or obstructed. Extensively discussed with photos on disco 3.co.uk Several TSB's by LR related to the roof drains. Many methods for cleaning and verifying them exist.

    2. A Pillar leaks the black plastic snaps into holes, on mine with similar vintage, the plastic was cracked. This can result in leaks although mind never leaked, one blew off when going down the road. I just replaced them both, user replaceable. These are probably also damaged during servicing by the dealer removing them for various reasons.

    3. Cowl, front Cowl has been reported to cause water in the cabin on the floor, etc. by many people, again discussed extensively on the site discussed.

    4. I am not familiar with the remote starter, however, I have heard about problems with the ground with, and / or corrosion and rubbing on the alternator or starter with, I can't help you much there, unless you need a replacement ground (I have 2)

    Parts: You can order parts online at a far better price if needed, I am providing links to the parts I referred to here. Additionally, you should consider replacing the brake light switch, among other things it is a common failure item that can leave you stranded.

    Side Moulding Left & Right
    http://www.landrovermerriamparts.co...6260&callout=4&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

    Cowl Grill (I believe this is the correct item)
    http://www.landrovermerriamparts.co...6275&callout=1&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

    Brake Light Switch P/N XKB500110
    http://www.landrovermerriamparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215719

    Good Luck don't be too upset, these things happen.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2012
  3. Risingstartrans

    Risingstartrans New Member

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    RE: wet floor LR3

    Hi, thank you for the reply. Honestly. I know for fact that its not roof drain and not the side molding, so, will address rest of the possible things tomorrow AM, I will post How it went.

    Interesting, how many signatures we need to make it as of official recall or push it to the point when LR techs will get this on the list to do...:)

    Btw, you mentioned brake light... what is it?

    Thank you. Alex.

    PS tried to use my manual lock to close and open the car, not turning... :) but... when I stick the key in my door lock and push the button, then it works... strange... :)
     
  4. tlt

    tlt Full Access Member

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    HI

    That is strange, it may be that the lock is frozen due to the fact it is never used. If your door is not opening with the remote that problem may be related to the key battery not being charged, or charging anymore. Some folks have successfully replaced the battery, though it is a project. Alternatively you can replace the key, but the new key will have to be programmed at the dealer, with all other keys you use present.

    The brake light I mentioned is the brake light switch. The switch is engaged when you press the brake pedal. It is located behind the kick panel under the steering wheel. It is a common culprit for intermittent computer faults, and issues. Most folks either experience intermittent faults, or replace it themselves before the issues occur.

    The top of the kick panel snaps out, carefully not the lose the metal clips on it. Then it swings toward you, and the bottom just has a couple of holders that fit into the dash, so the cover comes out after you swing it down.

    The switch comes out with a quarter turn to the right I believe and you can disconnect the cable, then reverse the procedure for the new switch.

    This has been discussed on this forum. There a picture of it mounted and dangling here. Due to some odd reason you can't post links to other web sites here like disco etc. unfortunate and shortsighted.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  5. Risingstartrans

    Risingstartrans New Member

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    05 wet floor and wire corrosion due to the issue.

    OK, guys, Spoke with the dealer, got some prints, but no help. Its ended up the LR knows about this issue for years. I got a tech bulletin from 06 saying that its 3 common problems due to the wet floor complain.

    1."WATER INGRESS TROUGH A-PILLAR EXTERIOR TRIM ATTACHMENT HOLES" Its a right side upper molding next to the windshield. Bottom pin is must be cut flash and patch placed over the hole. Under the foam gasket. All rubber gaskets on each pillar is to small to hold the water, They all must go. New ones are with larger rubber rings around.
    10 min for both sides

    2. "WATER LEAK IN THE FOOTWELL FROM ROOF OPENING PANEL DRAIN TUBE.
    Dir. quick check . Open roof all the way, poor some water on the side of the roof opening, its suppose to be 4 drains. right behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires, if you see water on the ground, you fine... :))

    3. Air duct gasket and foam insulation could be loose.

    OK, now, about the wires on the right side next to the door:

    1 splitter, 2 green/white wires that connect in splicer. small wires, probably the smallest in the bundle.
    Now, pay attention enthusiasts: DO NOT CONNECT ALL WIRES TOGETHER...!!!
    remote will not work, you must separate LINE IN and LINE OUT. will have to play with it...!!! Connect and try if remote is working, if not, then change the pattern, Simple...
     

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  6. mflecklr3

    mflecklr3 Member

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    Sorry to revive an old thread. I have a 2006 LR3 SE that has had the same sequence of symptoms. My wet passenger footwell was because the rubber elbow on the end of the sunroof drain tube had rotten and detached from the outlet hole. I replaced the rubber piece and things are again water resistant. Doing so required removing the central junction box. Good times. The remote lock/unlock has since stopped working. I don't know if it directly correlates to removing the CJB or some time after but it worked prior to pulling the electronics. I've found a green/white splice but it is behind the front passenger seat; probably 6+ inches behind the B Pillar. It looks exactly like the picture in post #5 (complete with blue electrical tape). I haven't tested it for voltage yet. I removed the tape and the connection is only slightly corroded. Any thoughts? There is no green/white 3-wire splice between the B Pillar and CJB; at least not that I could find after over an hour of searching. Has anyone found the offending splice to be behind instead of infront of the B pillar? i figured i'd asked before pulling apart the connection.
     
  7. tlt

    tlt Full Access Member

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    Farther up or back-- looks like next to a door seal... Try next to the front seat.
     
  8. mflecklr3

    mflecklr3 Member

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    Thanks for the reply. I rifled through the wires next to the front passenger seat for over an hour and didn't see any splice. i'm going to put a voltmeter on the splice that i found behind the B pillar and will report back.

    Also, someone asked about removing the sill plate so i wanted to post that info. After popping off the branded sill molding, remove the molding around the bottom of the passenger seat, and lift up the edge of the carpet that runs along the sill. Under the carpet you'll see that the plastic plate has tabs that you need to pop out. Once you've popped those away (there's 3-4 of them) the plastic plate will slide forward just enough that you can lift it out. There's a bundle of wires that goes underneath the passenger seat. This bundle may keep the plate from sliding forward; i put a wooden shim on top of the bundle as a kind of ramp so the plate could slide over the bundle instead of binding against it.
     
  9. Emma

    Emma Member

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    Thanks! Always good to find instructions and tips. I'm curious as to your voltmeter result. We have wet passenger floor (well, "looking to get fish to stop mozzies breeding" type "wet") and now remote lock isn't working so here to investigate all considerations.
     
  10. mflecklr3

    mflecklr3 Member

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    Re: voltmeter

    Hi Emma;

    I put a voltmeter on that wire and didn't see anything. My next move was to remove the center dome light and take a peek at the receiver...sure enough the green/white wire from that was heading towards the driver's side. I suspect that whoever assembled my LR3 on that day may have decided to run that wire on the UK side of the car, not the NA side. I didn't remove the sill trim and molding on the driver's side to verify. My current theory is that my wiring is in tact but removing the central junction box (which was required in order to access the drain tube) erased the pairing between my vehicle and the keyless remotes. I haven't yet taken it o the shop to see if they can program the keys/vehicle so this theory is unconfirmed as of today.

    [Update Jun 13, 2016] Finally took my LR3 into the shop and got this resolved. It was due to a crimped wire behind the CJB. Dealer pulled the CJB and re-routed and strengthened the wire. Key FOBs now working and no-sync'ing required.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2016

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