2010 LR4 5.0 V8 intermittent driver-side ticking — exhaust leak?

[weinerthedog]

I have a 2010 LR4 5.0 NA with about 230,000 km. I’m chasing an intermittent tick that I’m starting to think is exhaust-related, but wanted opinions from people familiar with the AJ133/LR4.

The noise is a fairly even, mechanical-sounding tick from the driver side. It is most noticeable from the driver-side wheel well. I can’t seem to pinpoint it with a stethoscope — it seems to transmit everywhere, from the valve cover bolts to the exhaust and front accessory/bracket area. Passenger side has a faint normal tick, but the driver side is definitely louder.

The odd part is the heat-cycle behaviour:

* On startup or after sitting briefly, the tick can be noticeable.
* After about 5 minutes of running, it fades away or becomes barely audible.
* I can drive the truck for hours with no noticeable noise.
* If I shut it off hot and restart after about 5 minutes, the tick comes back.
* Then after another 5 minutes of running, it fades away again.

Oil filter was clean, oil analysis was good, VVT/cam values look good, and there are no codes. Engine sounds normal once the tick fades. No heavy knock, no obvious chain rattle, and it does not sound like the common timing chain/tensioner clatter videos I’ve heard.

I’m not really thinking cam follower/bucket tappet because I would not expect that type of mechanical tick to disappear after 5 minutes of running, then come back after only a 5-minute hot soak/rest.

Because it is louder in the driver-side wheel well and changes with heat, I’m wondering about a small driver-side exhaust manifold leak, manifold gasket/port leak, cracked manifold, broken/corroded manifold bolt, downpipe/cat flange leak, or heat shield/bracket issue.

Does this heat-soak pattern sound familiar to anyone? Can a small manifold/downpipe leak on these transmit through the engine/brackets enough to sound like a mechanical tick at the front/top of the engine?

Any known common spots to check on the LR4/Range Rover/Jaguar 5.0 driver-side exhaust would be appreciated.

Second video after 5 mins. Will stay that way all day until I shutoff the engine. Noise has been there for a while with no ill effects.

Gofile - Cloud Storage Made Simple

Secure, fast and free cloud storage solution. Upload and share files instantly.

gofile.io

 

[powershift]

My 5.0L has that problem too, maybe worse sometimes. It was 100% reproducable before I had the chains done. Now at operating temperature and then park at the store then leave I'll hear it. Give it revs to 2K and it will smooth out in a couple minutes. Not sure *** but I know I'm not paying another dime after getting *****. If it leaves me stranded then that is what it will do. Planning a trip to Colorado mountains right now, not worried about it because flogging it up the grades its fine. Seems like an oiling issue.

 

[weinerthedog]

I can’t see oil pressure or something bleeding down that quick and then coming back right away when Ike oil still thin and hot. Seems like
Thermal expansion as goes away when warm. You said your made a noise when warm? Either way has never caused an issue. It’s. It as bad as it sounds as had the phone jammed up in the wheel well.

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Mine has made that noise for a long time, I think since 120-130k. I’m at 161k now. It usually goes away after driving the car but as soon as I turn it off and back on again it’s back. I used to tell myself that it wasn’t timing chain but I’m pretty convinced that it is. I know mine has an exhaust manifold leak. Oil is always clean and so is the filter. The chain always feels tight through the oil filler neck but I guess I’ll be able to tell when I do the valve covers and upper timing covers this summer.

Then again I do step on it from time to time when the oil is warm so I feel like if it were to be timing chain the engine would’ve blown itself up over the past 40k but it still runs like a dream.

 

[powershift]

Yeah, it seems it could be related to the timing chain and/or actuators. I wonder if there is something inside the actuator that is ******. On mine the chain is tight asf. I can't verify the shop that did my chain work installed new actuators but they talked about installing them and charged me accordingly, $1k. I'm curious if they need to be tuned somehow or maybe the drivers side only is defective. My OHC knowledge is lacking but it could be something on the heads like in the valvetrain and not the actuator or chain. I'd be interested to take it apart and inspect the valvetrain to see what is in-betweeen the cam and its valve lobes and the valves.

 

[weinerthedog]

Mine has made that noise for a long time, I think since 120-130k. I’m at 161k now. It usually goes away after driving the car but as soon as I turn it off and back on again it’s back. I used to tell myself that it wasn’t timing chain but I’m pretty convinced that it is. I know mine has an exhaust manifold leak. Oil is always clean and so is the filter. The chain always feels tight through the oil filler neck but I guess I’ll be able to tell when I do the valve covers and upper timing covers this summer.

Then again I do step on it from time to time when the oil is warm so I feel like if it were to be timing chain the engine would’ve blown itself up over the past 40k but it still runs like a dream.

I recorded a startup and not a single noise until the rpm drops down. My money is still on exhaust leak. Same here, if it were chains it would have blew up already and the vvt commanded, actual, and deviated values would not be that good. I also feel lifters would not go away so quick unless they were hydraulic. How do you know you have an exhaust leak? Gonna pull the finder liner and exhaust shields. Also gonna pull the belts and fan and run for 30 seconds or so until the rpm drops. My LR3 made a ticking sound that did not go away and turned out to the the alternator.

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

I recorded a startup and not a single noise until the rpm drops down. My money is still on exhaust leak. Same here, if it were chains it would have blew up already and the vvt commanded, actual, and deviated values would not be that good. I also feel lifters would not go away so quick unless they were hydraulic. How do you know you have an exhaust leak? Gonna pull the finder liner and exhaust shields. Also gonna pull the belts and fan and run for 30 seconds or so until the rpm drops. My LR3 made a ticking sound that did not go away and turned out to the the alternator.

I found one of the spacers that sits in between the exhaust manifold heat sheet and the manifold itself wedged in between the heat shield where the connection to the manifold and the cats sit. The only way that could’ve ended up there is if I bolt sheared/snapped off so I know that it definitely has one. Plus the SCV6 engines are known to shear manifold bolts and the V8 is basically the same engine so I bet it’s the same bolts and I bet it has the same issue. I can also just hear it.

I found the spacer a couple of years ago but it was in the passenger side and the noise comes from the drivers side. (Weird). Regardless, it’s an engine out job unless you have hands the size of a small child to do it inside the car so I’m not too worried about it. Hopefully that’s what the noise is.

It’s definitely not the alternator, I did mine 14k miles ago and there was no difference.

When I do the valve cover gaskets I’ll report back my findings. When I have enough money to play around with I’d like to swap the 8 speed + SCV8 into this car so hopefully whatever the issue is holds out until then.

 

[mm3846]

Add me to the list. 129k, been happening the last few months. I’m thinking sticky lifter or exhaust leak, either way I’m ignoring it.

 

[weinerthedog]

Add me to the list. 129k, been happening the last few months. I’m thinking sticky lifter or exhaust leak, either way I’m ignoring it.

Been doing for a while. Oil analysis was very good and I would have expected to see high levels of something if lifters were that worn. Lifter are not hydraulic so don’t think one could collapse. Did a bit of poking and I can hear clear as day on the drivers downpipe and cat with stethoscope. Don’t think chains or lifter would transmit that far down. If it were timing vvt values would not be that good and some code would have been thrown by now. Gonna pull the fender liner and heat shields and check the header

 

[jlglr4]

Since no one mentioned it, the viscous clutch solenoid on the engine fan is famous for making a ticking noise when it starts to go bad. There are videos demonstrating the sound around if you wanted to check that first.