Easy, open your window, drive slow and tap the brakes. If you hear clunking coming from the front your LCA bushings are *****. If they are oil filled bushings they will leak and then a few months later the clunking begins.
2011 LR4 front air strut replacement
- Thread starter LR4inAZ
- Start date
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TrinidadLR4
Full Access Member
I replaced both my fronts with Arnotts a few months ago. The front was starting to get soft and it looked like the shocks(not airbags) had gone past their prime. I did not evacuate or deflate the system in any way and it reset itself afterwards and has been working fine since. Thought it was a rather easy process, overall. Now looking at doing the rears but going with a different brand.
LR4inAZ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2011
- Posts
- 61
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I notice a clunking sound coming off curbs - will test out the braking method tomorrow... thanks for the idea.
I thought about the Arnotts but went with OEM version which I think are Delphi from Atlantic British... maybe we can record how long they last?
I thought about the Arnotts but went with OEM version which I think are Delphi from Atlantic British... maybe we can record how long they last?
cperez
Full Access Member
I’m definitely going to offer some beer incentive to you for some hands-on wrenching advice when my time comes...
Ravi Singh
Member
I crushed 3 fingers and required surgery and pins because I did not depressurize the system and the strut blew. Be careful. I was stupid and have suffered enough. Please be kind. It’s a very doable job and improves the ride significantly. I managed to insert a new strut 2 days after surgery and complete the rest a month later as I was healing. Did not have a IID. Taking the airline off the front valve block or the air line nut on the top of the strut depressurize s the system but DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG NUT FROM THE TOP OF THE STRUT WITHOUT DEPRESSURIZING THE SYSTEM. I made new air struts using generic air bags and Bilstein Sports shocks (yellow) all around. These are available from bilstein as a strut for the fronts only but are expensive. The ride is much firmer. Some modification of the top cap of the shock will be needed to fit into the air spring. I should detail this in a separate write up sometime. My 3 still settles onto bump stops after sitting a few days, even after rebuilding the valve blocks. I’m not worrying about it until it spring as it’s fine when driven daily and the pump is not clicking on very often.
Ravi Singh
Member
Ugh
Ravi Singh
Member
My set up got me the thru Naches Trail in Washington from starting point 1 without any suspension failures. This is a not for the faint of heart trail. Sliders, KM3s (or similar) are a must.
Ravi Singh
Member
At 100k miles, new bushings are needed. I get a lot of clunking up front. My 3 has 180k miles. I purchased all 8 new control arms from rock auto, got the cheapest they had available, all seem well built. Next summers project.
TrinidadLR4
Full Access Member
That sucks and sorry to hear but you are talking about doing something else. You were trying to separate the airbag from the strut. In our case, we are replacing the entire unit(airbag + strut) so that big nut does NOT need to be removed as the whole assembly comes out as a single unit. So you remove the air line and it deflates and then the three bolts at the top detach the assembly from the top.
Ravi Singh
Member
Exactly. I mentioned what I did so that no one else does it. Drop the entire unit as you describe, then remove the airline is the proper procedure.
